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Jon White

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Posts posted by Jon White

    Axle tramp?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Ok.......

    Dont really understand here to be honest.........its a bit beyond me!

    I'm suffering with front axle tramp on my series when going up steep climbs (diffs locked) which I suspect is whats casuing my trucks appetite for front axle components.

    Question is what can i do to reduce this?

    Its on 2 leaf parabolics, with ES3000 shocks, and runs 1 tonne shackles, and I've ground the spring pads to correct the castor. Shocks have been moved up (top and bottom mounts) by about 4" to improve ground clearance.

    A mate of mine has suggested I need shocks with stiffer rebound damping, but the same compression damping as I have now. Does anyone know if maybe swapping to ES9000's on the front would have this effect? I'm also wondering if maybe my re-positioning of the shock mounts hasnt helped....

    Also would lowering tyre pressures reduce tramp?

    And for the record, its staying on leaves so thats not a valid answer! Any suspension guru's out there?

    Thanks

    Jon

    Superwinch Husky modification

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always assumed that nylon bushings like this were designed to be self lubricating?

    Wouldnt grease just mix with grit and form grinding paste and eat the nylon bush?

    I thought that the reason the 525's had a grease nipple was casue they actually had a proper bearing in them?

    Cheers

    Jon

    Southeast Roll cage builders

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Never seen a P+P one in the flesh, but I've personally seen Qt ones. In fact i bought one. And sent it back again.......the bends are 'orrible.....

    So wouldnt recommend QT ones. Ask SimonR about Tomcat ones - beleive the product was ok, but the customer service sucked.

    Otherwise i dont know of anyone else in the south who can do it! I beelive there was a guy down bournemouth way that Tony Cordell recommended.

    Thats why we ended up making our own in the end. That said there was a guy selling flat pack cages at sodbury this year for very reasonable money, and they didnt look bad! Sorry - no details however!

    Jon

    A sign of things to come?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    I don't know much about these engines but I was speaking a to friend who rallies an MG ZR about these problems and their engine builder believed all these problems were due to the poor plastic head locating dowls used as standard on these engines. When the engine gets warm, the dowls soften and allow the head to move resulting in a head gasket failier. The solution was to fit metal dowls. The same friend also has one of the earliest Lotus Elises from new (and its been driven very much as intended, regularly) and has had the dowel mods done. He's had no issues with cooling ever.

    Even with the metal dowels the head gaskets still go! Mine did........

    THE fix seems to be to use the LR headgasket and ladder frame, and make sure it has metal dowels.

    The head bolts can be re-used - there is a measurement given in the workshop manual that dictates whether or not they are re-useable.

    The other one that the manual doesnt tell you, is that the head bolts torque up in 3 stages. The first stage is 15ft/lbs, then 180degress, then 180 degrees again. The tip is to torque all the head bolt sto 15 ft/lbs per the first stage, but then go round them all in order again, and you'll get an exctra couple of turns on the innermost ones as the head settles. Then once all are torqed and checked to 15ftlbs proceed per the manual.

    Jon

    loctiting crown wheel bolts

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Orange, if the bolts are loose the diff will need to be setup again anyway. IMHO if you're taking a diff out (especially the front) out its worth changing the bearings (both pinion and carrier) as a matter of course anyway.

    When it come to replacing the bolts you want to use new bolts, make sure the thread is totally (very, very important) clear of oil (brake cleaner and cotton wool buds works best IMHO) and then loctite and torque down as in the manual (can't remember the figure off the top of my head). If you're not 100% confident building up the diff give it to a someone who really knows what they're doing. I always get Ashcrofts to do mine as it doesn't cost much and its done faster and better than I could ever do it even though I know how.

    If its just the bolts that have come undone there is no need to re-shim the pinion at all (which is the hard bit). I agree the adjusting rings will need doing when you take the centre out but thats not hard is it?

    Equally if you replace the pinion bearings it'll need reshimming I agree, but if the origional bearings are being used, and are in good nick there is no need to reshim. I'd still blue up the teeth and check the pattern anyway as a matter of course, but its not difficult to do if you've got any engineering ability at all.

    String, degrease and check the bearings and go from there. They dont need replacing that often if they're been properly lubricated.

    Jon

    Diff Pegging

    in International Forum

    Posted

    That was what I thought. It just seemed to me that it would be better engineered if the slipper pad was held say a couple of thou off the crownwheel to prevent wear, such that it would only make contact when under load.

    I cant really think of a practical way of doing that however!

    Anyone got a good (cheap!) source for the phospor bronze material?

    Jon

    Diff Pegging

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Been looking at pics of the pegging. Does anyone know if the slipper pad is actually retained to the adjuster screws in any way, or does it just float, being retained by the dog ends of the screws that sit into machined recesses on the pad???

    Does that make sense?

    Jon

    Diff Pegging

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Jon, I know its teaching you to suck eggs but in a lot of cases r&p failier is due to a badly built diff, worn geares or goosed bearings. A lot of people instantly blame the Rover design when that's not the real cause of failier. I had my diffs pegged just before I took the truck off the road as I needed to have one of the front ARB serviced and I thought it'f be sensible given I'm planning to run 37" tyres with arround 450 lb/ft of torque.

    As far as pegging goes, I think it'll probably help although I think it makes more differance on 3.54 with their thin, flexy, crownwheel. Talking to Ashrofts the thing that makes the process expensive is they weld up the casing to reinforce the area where the studs go through the casing. This is both very specialist work and the welding rods are eye wateringly expensive.

    Will,

    Diffs in all three cases were professionally built, with all parts inspected and new bearings where required. There was nothing wrong with the parts nor the way they were put together.

    The 3.54's are stronger than series 4.7's. Its the 4.7's that are inherantly weak.

    Jon

    Diff Pegging

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Yeah - no bother Nige - I'm only headley so all of about 3 miles away!

    4.7's are the right ratio but they're just not strong enough! I keep twisting front half shafts too.........thats the next job to try and fix for as little outlay as possible!

    Jon

    Diff Pegging

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Anyone got any experience of pegging diffs? Not necessarily on a landrover - I'm told most commercail vehicles have them as standard!

    Before any posts "Ashcrofts do it", sorry, but at the moment fund wont run to paying someone to do it, and being as I've a fair amount of engineering ability (built my own LT77 to series conversion for example) I'm going to have a go at doing it myself.

    I'm running 4.7 series cwp's with arb centres, but I keep stripping teeth off of the CWP - that 3 in 2 months so far!

    On the same vain, funds wont run to uprated CWP's at the moment either, so my though was that for the cost of a few bits of metal and bolts, and some time (my time is effectively free to me) I'd give it a go.

    I've seen the info on ahcrofts website, but am looking for any alternative approaches to this, and any personal experiences (good or bad).

    Anyone got anything to offer?

    Thanks in advance!

    Jon

    TI Console Disc Brakes

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Sliding calipers????????? Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

    oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

    oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

    Hammer-Tech

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    My favourite has got to be a Thor copper and hide mallet. Available in a range of sizes.

    I've also got a 2kg rubber mallet which is good for thumping things without damaging them.

    So far as separating the parts you want to, how about a slide hammer fitted via the wheel studs or some such??

    Cheers

    Jon

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