Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like rangie rear disk and hubs?
IIRC you'll find the calipers are impossible to mount unless you want to get into horrible brackets picking up the top/bottom swivel bolts.
Hard to tell from your pictures though.
What calipers you planning to use?
Jon
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Hmmmmmmm thats a difficult one!
Theres no easy solution really. The best route IMHO is LT77 and LT230 but convert it to part time 4wd. Still not an easy conversion really as it involves hacking crossmembers about, altering props etc. However the LT77 seems bullet proof (so long as the mainshaft splines arent worn).
Its all about how you drive and what you want it for really - if you drive it with some mechanical sympathy you may never blow a box.......
Jon
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Yes thanks
I was using the awdc.co.uk addy, but that wouldnt work. It is now though!!!
Which do I go to? AWDC or 4x4withoutaclub on the 27th?
Go to both - they're on different days!!! The 4x4woac one is on the 26th AWDC on the 27th.....
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Well according to DVLA it shows as first registered 2/9/77 hence the S plate. States year of manufacture as 1966 so would be tax exempt. Engine size is correct (3528cc) aswell.
From a registration point of view it looks ok then!
As to the gearbox IMHO there are no trustworthy companies currently offering rebuilt series gearboxes. Many are little more than re-painted 2nd hand boxes. Ashcrofts no longer do series boxes.
If it were me I'd strip the box thats in it and rebuild it. They're asy to work on, and parts (Pattern) are cheap and easily avaialable. You need no special tools, and a series is a good truck to learn on.
However, with a V8 in it, a series3 box is on its limit (I blew 3 in a year) so you'd better either get good at rebuilding boxes, or look around for something stronger.
Jon
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If you screw the reverse light switch in too far it can prevent you from selecting reverse gear at all.
Les.
Been there done that!!!!!!
Jon
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Yes its entirely possible using bolt on parts.
You need a pair of rear caliper carrier brackets - they're about £25 each and arent worth making yourself!
Calipers, hubs disks etc are all the same as on a rangie so easy peasy.
I've converted the rear axle on my series to disks in this way.
Jon
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Oi Barker.......
Why dont you stop pissing about with it, go buy a standard Vitara and go out and actually use the thing???????
Jon
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Er it wasnt like that yesterday! My guess is somethings broke!
Jon
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Where do I get 16mm grub screws to make it look nice?
AHC in farnham or margnor in guildford.
Cheers
Jon
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Spot on - I've tried measuring it with a dial gauage etc and got the hump with it! I do it the way stephen describes - I usually set it up so that there is zero backlash at all, but such that it doesnt bind anywhere when rotated. Then back off a little at a time until there is the tiniest bit of backlash in it that you can feel.
IIRC the manual says it should be something like 4 thou of backlash, which frankly is barely detectable!
I've watched a friend who is a proffessional do this and I do them the same way as he showed me. He rebuilt the last 2 I blew, so you cant blame me for them blowing up!
Problem is I'm running series diffs with ARB's and big tyres - they're not generally regarded as the strongest!
Jon
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You will need to remove the pinion otherwise the bearing will fill with swarf as you drill the casing!
If you have the genuine (non haynes) manual this covers setting the backlash of diffs. Available for free download in PDF format from various places on the net if you look hard enough!
I tend to just do them by feel, but I wouldnt recommend that if you've never done one before! I've become a bit of an expert at it now - I've blown 3 in 2 months!
Jon
Jon
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There is no correct distance - you need to adjust the clearance until you get the correct amount of backlash.
Jon
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@Jon White: how far are you with the diff. pegging?
What did you use to weld the plate on de diff?
I am trying to DIY. I will not be easy to drill the holes at the correct place.
More or less done. Just having fun and games with stub shafts that dont want to fit together at the moment!
I got a mate to TIG weld it up for me.
Drilling is easy enough if you've a pillar drill and a decent clamp. You need to measure carefully and mark correctly to get he holes in the right place.
Jon
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Really? Well my 3.5 on carbs has an ex 3.9 efi front cover on it and I didnt notice any difference at all (had to smash the origional to remove it due to siezed bolts)
Jon
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Have to admit I've never had one.......
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John,
I can see the way those traction bars are supposed to work, but all seem aimed at rear axle problems.
To do the same on the front axle would surely require the bars to be mounted onto the front of the front axle with the bars running forwards. Would then end up very short and difficult to mount surely?
I've not had any problems under braking (disks all round).
898KOR - when you say twisty front shackles, so you mean revolver type shackels that fit to the rear ends of the front springs, or do you mean flexy front mounts like thos egon-2-far were doing?
Sounds like the ES9000's would be a good first step anyway thats easy to do!
Cheers
Jon
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9002V (the one I have) has the side windows and is adjustable 9-13 shade.
9002D does not have side windows and is only adjustable 9-11 shade
Thats the main difference!
Jon
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Steel is expensive, end of story!
My experience has been that, yes, it is alot cheaper when you buy directly from the stockholders. However you'll find very few who will sell you anything other than a full length, or a full sheet. If you only want a single length delivery is expensive (and many will refuse to deliver to a residential address). Otherwise transporting it is interesting - a 7 m length of steel is longer than your truck is - car jousting anyone??
If you want short lengths or small amounts expect to pay a premium for it!
Only thing i've ever done in the past is to get friendly with a local fabricators and get them to tack on what you want to their next order and get it ordered through them.
Many fabricators now will not allow people to rummage through the scrap bin, for health and safety reasons, but also cos they've had so much trouble with the local Pikeys! Scrap is valuable thesedays, and you'll often find not much more than swarf in a fabricators scrap bin - they keep everything they can for use on other jobs!
Jon
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Thats cos you're always using the rest of the lake you've parked your truck in as a heat sink!!!
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hmmmmm food for thought there..........shame no-ones actually tried it out yet!
Dont really want to get into adding a leaf, as my suspension is nice and compliant and dont want to lose articulation.
Interestingly this might be why tonk doesnt have the problem as his truck is so lardy! The v8 weighs a fraction what his oil burner does!
Jon
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Hmmmmm Thanks Chaps! Think I'll try shocks as a first port of call!
So can anyone confirm that the ES9000's would be worth trying as an upgrade to the ES3000's?
Oddly I dont get the problem with the rear end......
Jon
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88" series, on series axles, carbed V8.
Running ARBs front and rear, and rims are reversed 8 spokes giving 6" of back spacing.
Need any more info?
Ta!
Jon
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Cheers Jon.
Do you think your QT was a one off? Or do all QT cages have bad bends? What didnt you like about the bends?
I ordered one, and Nigel B ordered one at the same time. They were both as bad as each other. Every time I see the QT stand at a show I go and have a look to see if the bending as improved - it hasnt.
Not only were the hoops we ordered not square or parrallel, the actual bends themselves were not good due to deformation of the tube. Properly bent tube should have a smooth radius on the inside of the curve, the QT ones have terrible ripples in them, and dints on the outside of the curves from the bender. Look at the curves on mine or Niges truck (hoops were bent up by us with a manual bender on Nige's driveway) and you'll see smooth curves with no deformation.
Considering QT claim to bend their tube with a full mandrell bender IMHO the workmanship is poor.
Also bear in mind when pricing up cages, blue band tube when I bought it 2 years ago was £40 odd for a 7m length. I used 2 lengths just to add an external cage to my existing internal rear, so you're probably looking at 4 lengths for a full cage. Thats £160 (at 2 year old prices) of metal before you even start, and i know the price of steel has shot up in the last year!
HTH
Jon
Oils
in International Forum
Posted
I've always used comma 20/50 with no problems.
Its EP90 that always costs me a bomb!!!
Jon