Gazzar

Think so, or not significantly different. As long as the 109 wasn't a 1tonne varient. G.

Doors and windscreen for bikini top/truck cab. What are you trying to achieve? Is it just to use what you have or is it an appearance thing? G.

I've just put my '81 2286 petrol through its Commercial Roadworthiness test (first time in 8 years). It passed with no problems, however I was amazed that the CO (carbon monoxide, I think) was only 0.44%. My cheepo gunson gastester gave me a reading of 2.5%. I thought that carburettored vehicles couldn't run that low! And, no, it doesn't have a CAT. The HC (Hydrocarbons) count was 296 and the lamda (???) was 1. I reckon the emissions machine at the test center was broken/miscallibrated, apparently they seldom get petrol commercial vehicles. What should the CO be on a well tuned 2286, does anyone know? G.

They all appear to be like that - I suppose that it is easier to clamp the plate to the chassis rail than a bare rigger on its own? Also it can be difficult to weld the top of the chassis rail with bodywork in the way. But I agree - I'd prefer if the replacement didn't have the plate. Perhaps you could use a bit of the plate to extend the rigger so you can lap it over the chasis rail top. I don't think it is a good idea to cut the rail to take the plate - butt welding by most people wouldn't be as strong as a lap joint. My bulkhead riggers are both on plates - seam to be ok after 8 years, if worried you could (and should) use copious amounts of waxoil to protect everything. g.

Any results? G

I presume bearings and all are fine and there is no other way for the drum to vary relative to the shoes? I'd try to eliminate possible causes. Clamp the flexi hoses one at a time, Starting with the rear one. Test drive in a safe place. Sorry: teaching grandfather to suck eggs. No effect then swap out master cylinder for known good. If it helps when I brought my S3 109 to be tested I told the tester I wasn't happy with the brakes. He asked had I changed the cylinders and when I confirmed this he said it sometimes happens that the pedal is soft at first?! I'm still not convinced but they do work. G.

No, the PAS box, when placed at the end of the crossmember, doesn't foul the tyre. It sits just forward of the axle and takes up less space than a shock absorber. You may need to reroute the brake flexihose though. I reckon it is doable. The P38 box is very different to the defender disco box, and bolts to the outside of the chassis rail on the P38a ( I think). The steering column is inward of the drop arm, rather than outward on the defender/disco. G.

I think it is possible to attach a P38 PAS box to the outside of the chassis rail, as the box would sit on the chassis rail. I've not done this (yet), but I reckon it would work. You may have to cut your battery box holder though. If you HAD a p38 PAS box kicking about you could try it. g.

And I was in your part of the world last weekend too! Still, the airline would have charged me more for the hold luggage than Paddocks would for a new dizzy (almost!). G

Good morning! My Ducellier dizzy on my 1981 2286 (48 k miles) petrol doesn't appear to advance under vacuum. The vacuum gauge, when attached to the carb vacuum outlet, shows normal vacuum. When I suck on the vacuum pipe (carb end) I can see movement in the dizzy. So, i figure it SHOULD work, however the engine runs out of pull too early. With the dizzy advanced to compensate all works as it should (so the centrefugal advance works). The Dizzy has an adjuster for vacuum advance, which I've not touched. Does anyone know if I can get more vacuum advance using this adjuster? My current plan is to try one click in one direction and try it, but I'd be keen to try something more scientific. Failing that, is the easiest option to swap in a new Lucas, and an electronic ignition kit? The Britpart one looks simple enough. I don't wish to go megajolt, as I want to keep the land rover as original as possible, (and really don't have enough time to go scrap yard scrounging!). Cost is also a factor as if it gets too high then a Tdi becomes viable. G. G.

I believe it was a common modification when series were ued for trialing. g.

The Vac gauge was 15 euro - draper model in hte local motor factors, and the gas tester was roughly 100 euro, though that was bought on ebay. I actually was up at Port Rush a month ago but it rained so much they had to close the roads! Anyway, I'm planning on spending tomorrow tuning my 2286 petrol up - the vacuum advance isn't working (no vacuum generated by carb) so I'll do some research and we'll try work something out. G.

And to clean up the chassis after the hacking: a hand reamer. So that the new bush goes all the way in! G.

Right! Makes sense, as there is a little sticky out bit of clear plastic on the side of the casing. So, as a timing light it is fine? - I'll just ignore the dial entirely. Great! Thank you, TSD. Now all I have to do is figure out why there is no vacuum advance! Maybe a post for another week, and another forum. G.

I inherited a second hand timing light some time ago, and used it for the first time this week on my 2286 petrol. Its a Gunson Tachostrobe dc, and does the usual timing light thing - hook it up - point it at the pulley - pull trigger and lights flash and the pulley is illuminated. Only thing is , there is a rotary dial set into the handset, which adjusts a pointer that refers to RPM, from 750 up to 1000 (I think). I wasn't happy with the way the timing was set to start with, but using the timing gun to set the timing didn't help. So I was wondering what does that dial go? Has anyone used one of these before and got the instuctions? Or remember what that dial does to the timing light? G.

Belfast, sorry too far away, I'm in the Midlands, otherwise I'd come over and help you mess it up worse! There was a guy living near Saintfield - Michael - that was in Club Land Rover Ireland that was big into the series Land Rovers. I used to have his number but I lost it when I switched phones. Try the club to get a contact number. Otherwise the Belfast Land Rover Centre is near Saintfield. They may be worth a call. I've just invested in more diagnostic kit, a Gunson Gastester and a vacuum gauge. They are both good pieces of kit, although the gas tester takes 10 minutes to calibrate. The way I figure it, the more I know the better I do the job, and as I'm not doing it everyday I need all the help I can get!! G.

Good to know. save me HAVING to drain it, that is - until I redo the seal. G.

Remember: don't use GL 5 specification oil. The additives in the GL5 oil will corrode the brass and bronze in the syncros at temperature. If you can't get GL 4 in your motor factors then try an oil distributer in an agriculturial area: my Castrol dealer supplier 20 litres EP90 to GL 4 for 70 euro (50 pounds?). I think GL5 will do for swivels and steering boxes, but not for diffs and gearboxes. G.

Where abouts are you based? G.

Especially the disco instruments! G.

Also: do you have a timing light? G.

I've fixed a buzzer - just soldered it straight to the lucar spade on the relay. It does exactlty what I thought it would do. Nice. Probably not an issue for the Irish DOE, but a good idea anyway. Cheers Fridgefreezer. G.

Success! Purchased Flasher relay part number 206 from Halfords, underneeth motorbike electrical bits. Opened instrument panel, removed lucas part from top of inside of panel. Disconnected the unit, connected the dark green wire to the 49 connector, 49a to the light green connector and made a new earth wire from the inspection socket. Tried right indicator - flashed very fast. Drat. Checked bulbs and, naturally, one had blown. Replaced bulb and everything worked. Connected trailer board and - - it all works! I've just got tp tidy everything up and I'm done. By the way, what is the trailer warning lamp for? Is it a legal requirement? And woudl a buzzer do? FridgeFreezer, thank you. G.

FridgeFreezer Got one, it looks like the only additional work necessary is the extra Earth. I'll have a go at wiring it in tomorrow and report back. Cheers! G.

I'll try one - if I can get locally. It looks to have more connections than what I have fitted currently. No doubt I 'll figure it out eventually. Thanks, G.