Gazzar

I'll try one - if I can get locally. It looks to have more connections than what I have fitted currently. No doubt I 'll figure it out eventually. Thanks, G.

I've just wired up my trailer socket on my '81 109 Petrol. When I connect the trailer lights everything works, except the incicators flash too fast. I presume the relay/flasher unit isn't up the the job but what can I do to fix it? G.

I think that if you change the dumb iron to a blank one, and stamp the VIN, then all they check is that the VIN matches the logbook. You shouldn't lose the age if the new vin matches. You might lose the age if you have the wrong VIN (if you keep the current dumb iron). The problem is that you'd need to be in the UK to do all this. I recall that before the SVA regeime the Vechicle Registration Offices in the UK used to instruct kit Car owners to get the Chassis number stamped at a MOT station. A nice man from the ministery would then inspect it and all would be ok. I've not lived in the UK for years so things may have changed. Perhaps you could subcontract this to someone? G.

The SVA (Single Vehicle Approval) is a scheme in the UK (and Northern Ireland - I think) that exists for cars that do not have a manufacturers type approval - basically kit cars and the like. There are Government run SVA centres that examine a car and issue paperwork stating that the vehicle is in accordance with the rules. Most EU states have a"catchall" in their legislation that allow for "approved within another EU state". You may have to read the legislation and bring a copy with you, and I understand that the Dutch authorities can be as stubborn and unhelpful (but in a nice friendly way) as any other state but, armed with the paper your should succeed. You may end up with a different UK number plate but you don't care - all you want is the paper work. Ensure you retain the age of the vehicle if there are any age related exemptions in the Netherlands. Link thing: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Buyin...hicle/index.htm g.

Sounds about right - I presume they should be 8.8 tenstile strength metric and heat treated imperial. g

I think that if you restamp the dumb iron whilst the vehicle is in the UK, get the vehicle a SVA certificate (in the UK), and then represent it with the UK SVA cert to the dutch authorities they may have to take it under EU regulations. There IS a solution, it's just to find it, and convince your local authorities that they have to accept it. G.

Ok, Just checked mine: I got the information upsidedown. The tabs on the main plate use long narrow bolts and attach each side of the rear tub mounting plate at the top of the crossmember. Two large long bolts connect the plate to the bottom of the cross member. Two large short bolts connect the plate to the angle iron, which is attached to the underside of the crossmember using three bolts that screw into the pretapped holes in the crossmember. 9 bolts in total, 2 long narrow, 2 long big, 2 short big and 3 small. G.

When I did mine I wirebrushed (on a grinder) all rust back to bare metal. I then applied a coal-tar based rust paint - Lowe Rost. This is used in marine and agri industries in Ireland. I then applied black waxoyl mixed with 5 - 10 % new engine oil. I used a schultz gun and an old schults container to apply this. The waxoyl dries out to a slightly tacky texture. Needs replenishing around the wear areas every year. If there was any waxoyl on the chassis then paint won't stick, so I'd either remove it, or, most probably, apply a new coat of black waxoyl on top. G

Glad to help. Use the proper bolts. G.

As I recall (shed is locked co can't check) there are 6 bolts that attaches the main plate to the cross member, 4 big and 2 narrow (might only be 2 big). There is also a strip of heavy angle section steel (angle iron) which attaches to the three tapped holes in the bottom/underside of the cross member and bolts to the two heavy tabs on the plate. If you didn't get the angle iron then don't worry, it is just standard stuff - nothing clever. G.

I think it is possible on most defeners. Try posting in the defender forum, the regulars there know more about this sort of thing. g.

Ok, 1968 109 SW - Bolt up into nut 1981 109, ditto, The nut goes on the shelf, and the bolt goes into the nut. I fitted the tank on the 1981, 6 months ago and found the same problem so did it that way. G.

Checking now. G.

Result. Well done. G

Looks like it could be a one off job - rear tub and roof both look hand crafted. Non standard door lock suggests it wasn't done by the factory, but I could be wrong. Was there any "Built in NZ" campaigns in the 1950's? Some countries reduced the import duties on vehicles if a percentage was locally produced, or if they were assembled locally. It might be worthwhile checking with previous owners. G.

The steel wolf rims fit, but the turn stops on the front axle may need adjusting. The rims are wider than stock, and the offset is different, I think. You may need spacers, and you may also need longer wheel studs. G.

Ok, I know its Monday, but whats an RD28? Thanks, G.

I've rebuilt one - got the bits from craddocks as I recall. Wasn't too difficult - usual tools - vice/hammers etc. g.

1 Think so : you can swap the engine mounts over if necessary 2 Ditto: though you may have to swap the flywheel housing I'm not 100% certain that the injection pump on the 2.5 will clear the battery box holder though. No doubt someone who has done it will be along shortly.

I've a drivers side tank rigger, used, rusty, sound, attached to a dead chassis up for grabs - in Co Laois - if you are interested. Cost: one angle grinder cutting disk.

Hi Les, I've just been looking at the pipes - the feed to the bottom of the IP and to the filter are on the same banjo at the lift pump. Thus are at the same pressure as the filtered feed to the top of the IP. The Spill/return pipes to the tank and filter are on the same fitting on the 4th (bellhousing) injector. I just hope we've not fitted them wrong! It agrees with the parts manual though. I donno - it just looks over complicated to me. Typical land rover - only company that took over 100 components to hang an exaust pipe in 1981. G.

Cheers Les, So, does the Back Leakage connection on the Injection Pump take fuel from the IP that was used to lubricate the IP back to the pump? If so it would be filtered diesel, so that's ok then. I understand that - thanks. As for the second spill return, why does it go to the filter (unfiltered side) and the tank? Is the idea to heat the fuel in the filter a bit? I can kinda understant that, though I thought heating dinodiesel wasn't a good idea. Gary.

Other alternatives: If you have a dremel or similar you can cut a slot for a screw driver into the stud. Use an impact driver with a slot head (impact grade) to drive it out. Ensure the stud has beed soaked in penetrating oil/plusgas/rustoleum for a day or two. Apply heat to loose rust or threadlocking compound. A final resort: Using a tungsten carbide tile cutting bit from a dremel remove the material a bit at a time - not applicable to this circumstance as there is so much material sticking out. g.

The 2286 diesel fuel system has the usual complement of fuel lines for a diesel, there are however two lines I don't quite understand. The first: From the fuel lift pump to the bottom on the distribution pump (unfiltered!) From the bulkhead injector spill (return) line to the fuel filter, in addition to the return to the tank. What do these lines do? Just curious. G.

Loose adjuster on the clutch pedal? G.