Gazzar

You are welcome. I must do the same, stop the condensation dripping on to the radio in the headlining. Another option, if you've not fitted the roof yet, is to spray stone chip on it, the plastic stuff, not the rubber stuff. G.

LaSalle interior trim, outfit based in wales, produce heavy duty fibreglass door cards and roof trim. Expensive. Another crowd make door cards too - I think scorpion racing sell them. They are ok, little basic around the edges but a lot better than nothing. Top Tip, line the truck cab roof with water resistant foam for under wood floors, using spray on adhesive, otherwise condensation will occur between the roof and the head lining. G.

That's ok then. Wasn't clear to me, but then again that's probably just me being thick. I know that the disco 1 alloys don't fit a std series without modification. Which is good as I think they look silly. G.

I thought that alloys don't fit on series axles unless the centre is machined bigger? Because the coiler axles have much smaller drive flange plages? G.

Springs aren't up to the job at the back, or too strong for the front. Axle straps too short. Shock absorbers too short. or chassis broken. I suspect you may need to put more leaves into the spring pack at the back. Is it a hard top or pickup? G.

I thought it was bad for bronze, and so not ok for rover diffs, but ok for salisburys. G.

devon 4x4, about 150 quid. G.

It might be a good idea to leave it loose until you fit the rear tub, roof and doors, that way you can adjust everything until it all lines up. G.

It could also be valve stem seals, there is a test but I can't remember it. Yours could be 20 + years old now. G.

Yes it is a PITA. One solution I've seen on here is to re-route the bleed nipple to the top of the hub. Brilliant. G.

You sure? That would help! G.

Most of these topics have several threads on them, so have a good search around for details, but in summary: 1. Installing electric cooling fan and taking off the QE2 propeller. Not a bad idea, and fine for the British Isles most of the time, however it does add an extra component that might fail. You also need to think of how you switch it on (x-engineering x-switch) 2. Changeing the carb. for a SU (what size) and manifold. Old Zenith carb is knackered. Rebuild the Zenith - It will deliver 20 mpg and cruise at 50 without O/D. New seals, new accelerator diaphram and flat the two faces and the job is done. 3. K&N filter. Bad idea - the oil bath is the best filter designed by man for a naturally aspirated engine. 4. Tubular exhaust manifold and new exhaust (stainless steel). Won't make it into a honda sports car. If you want to fit the diesel exhaust - slightly better flow. 5. Some minor port polishing. mainly to match manifolds. Don't polish too much as the mirror finish stops the fuel mixing with the air and reduces combustion. Also might help a bit. Check out the Turner Engineering reconditioned heads offerings. 6. Loseing weight and getting lighter shoes. Narrow shoes are the way to go - Wider tyres = higher rolling friction. Other bits:- 1. Is there an uprated heater matrix and fan available.? Many options here - search and browse the forum - short answer: yes, long answer: yes but not off the shelf. 2. Parobolic or standard replacement springs.? Opinions divided - my 109 is quite good on the roads, on standard tired springs, but I make sure they are greased up. 3. Dampers. Standard or uprated.? Standard for standard springs. Uprated for parabolic springs. 4. Brakes are ok. but I have seen somewhere you can get almost straight replacemnet front disc brake sets. Any thoughts. You can - search TI CONSOLE. Loadsamoney. Also if you go to spain or portugal you may get disks/calipers/hubs froma Santana. Search the forum for DIY ideas. 5. Improvements to the turning circle. Yes, at the risk of damaging the UJs in the front axle, and bearings, by fitting wheel spacers and adjusting the stoplocks. 6. Spin on/off oil fiter kit. yes or no. Your call. The paper element type are cheap and available, The outer casing will not get damaged as easily as the disposable type, so why bother? 7. Renew mechanical fuel pump or fit an electric one. If it ain't broke.......... Basically what is standard works well enough for what it is, and if you muck with it too much you'll end up with something that still isn't a Range Rover but isn't an Original Series either. Having said that - its your Landrover - so do to it what you will, and have fun. If you do anything interesting please post up the pictures so we can all learn. G.

Both petrol and diesel, as my 5 bearing petrol is red. G.

I thought the terracotta was for the 5 bearing engines late 1970's. Mind you i'm seldom right. G.

That is interesting! Locating it would be a challenge, I wonder if it could run on a independent water circuit for heating the rear of a SW? It would require a water pump, though. Also the air intake would have to be located carefully, to avoid water ingress when wading. G.

And post lots of pictures so we can offer deconstructive advice.

Unless you are 100% sure the body is 100% good then budget on seperating the parts. Even then it is a better way of doing it as the risk of warping something is high. buy new door sills. buy new mud shields, have a gallon of waxoil handy have some decent rust paint handy (for the bulkhead) have LOTS of tea handy. Get a grinder with a wire brush. Also have some thick alu sheet (4 to 5 mm) handy to reinforce the mounting holes, as most will be powdery (as mentioned above). I usually rivit this on, with a chemical metal type gunge sandwiched in between. double check the placement of the rivits for fouling something. Also - assume it takes twice as long and costs 4 times as much, or vice versa. Soak every nut and bolt in plusgas or 3in1 penetrating spray anyway. Best of luck.

Some say its optional. If you are towing a 2 tonne trailer through the sahara on a regular basis fit a big one. If you never exceed 50 mph in the UK and never tow then don't bother fitting one. What you propose sounds fine. No idea - off hand - as to the pipe fittings. G.

Has anyone fitted Santana Discs to a Stage 1 v8 front axle? G.

Amazing price! I think I'll stick to my plan of DIY. Or try to get a Santana in a Spanish scrappie!! Amazing! G.

16 v is on the wrong side of OK, not by much but not a lot of good for fussy electrics. As the alternator is less than 12 months old it might be covered by warrenty - in which case just exchange it for a new one. Failing that you will need to replace the electronics in it, use the Google and the part number, I think it is a diode pack you are looking for. Try a good motor factor that specialises in Electrics - Lucas/bosch agents. They may rebuild it for you. BTW if it is the original lucas alternator then they are about 45 quid outright (indian copy - 2 out of 3 work well). G

Mines got a fuel tank leak - it's in the shed waiting for me to fit the new tank. Maybe next year ? G

Note: All most any series overdrive will work, I think only the 1 tonne varient was different. There is also the rocky mountain roverdrive, if you are rich. G.

Aren't land rovers status symbols everywhere? G.

Specifically it can add to the loadings on wheel bearings. I've no personal experience with them, but I figure that if your bearings are sound, and you have no clearance issues, and you can handle the extra effort to turn then go for it. Oh yes, and tell your insurance weasels too. Check those bearings regular, mindyou! G.