Gazzar

Long shot, but............. any chance the spark leads got mixed up? G.

Anti-run on device not getting enough power?

Big dog. Other than that then the more security you put in the bigger the challenge! Afterall if there is so much security there MUST be something worth half inching! So leave it open with only some rusty tools worth nothing lying about, keep your good stuff elsewhere. irritating. G.

You aren't planning on keeping it in France, are you? I think the French have very strict rules about what you can and can't change on cars, might be worth checking before you spend money on it. G.

Les, I wish I did! Flippin' things wern't cheap. G. PS double post was an arrangement between firefox and the forum, nothing to do with me.

I can recommend the rangemasters: Quiet enough, fairly comfortable and economical and look correct for a standard series.

I can recommend the rangemasters: Quiet enough, fairly comfortable and economical and look correct for a standard series.

I've just put a new set of 7.5 r 16 avon rangemasters and have to report that I'm delighted with them - quiet, capable of coping with the mixed driving I do - farm tracks and on road. Economical too - my standard LWB 2286 petrol does 20 plus to the gallon! Fairly comfortable, as they are a radial version. And they look right for a series. But to answer your question: The technical by the book advice: If it isn't a tubeless rim then fit a tube. Safety is too important to take a chance. The Std LWB rim is 5.5 x 16. Mind you, my tyre fitter said they are actually a 6" wide rim - and his gauge for the balancing machine proved it. Putting a 235/85 16 tubeless with a tube is ok for this rim, so long as the tyre is designed for tube use (michelin, for example). Any wider is not a good idea. Many people don't bother with a tube and get away with it, I wouldn't - I've natural bad luck. An alternative is a set of "take off" tyres and rims from a recent defender, where somewhere has swapped their std rims for alloys or something. These recent defenders are on tubeless rims. And fit fine on the series III. Watch ebay, get in contact with your local 4x4 tyre place, and your land rover dealer too. G.

Read the section on reconditioning the 'box, and ask yourself 'what is the hardest part?' G.

That's the spirit! ease yourself into it, take your time and learn as you go! G.

I thought it was a lot of work changing the input shaft on a disco box to allow a shorter belhousing, and isn't the gearstick much further back? And isn't there an issue with the track rod on the disco axle hitting the propshaft too. The 1 ton shackles replace the normal ones (on the back of the spring). G.

Not that I know much ( I Know nothing - your honour), but I once saw a cut down range rover chassis where, instead of cutting straight down, the guy cut the chassis in a dove tail, sort of, so that the weld was much longer, and thus stronger. God, what a rubbish way of describing it. Right. Imagine that the cuts on the top and the bottom of the chassis rail were, say, 4 inches behind the cuts in the sides, with the joining cut along the corner. Does that make sense? Anyway it was neat. Anyway please don't cut up the series, scrap the body work of the disco (you'd get paid for that!) and buy new panels from one of the parts suppliers and make up your own bulkhead and front panel. MUCH better, as you can do what you like for engines and radiators etc. G.

As to the cost of a recon box - depends as to what you want from the landrover - keep it forever? If not then try a secondhand box, which could be worse! OR rebuild a secondhand box yourself? Or just live with it? Change the oil regular so it doesn't get worse. G.

Well, try the easy stuff first. If you hold the stick in place does it stay there easily enough? If so it could be the detent springs things. This is easy enough to fix. You've got to remove the transmission cover between the floor panels. This required removing the floor panels (I think). Have a look - they are held in place with some big screws - pour penetrating oil on them a week before you tackle them, cause they often seize solid and are a pig to shift. Once this panalage is gone you've got access to where the gearstick is bolted to the gearbox. This is a fairly simple metal frame/bracket, held on by 4 bolts. Benind this is a little raised square dome, immediately behind this, one on each side, are two little "L" shaped brackets, held on each by two bolts from the top. I think these retain the detent springs and ball bearings. Undo the bolts and , taking care to catch any springs etc, take out what is retained. Have a look and see what shape they are in (hopefully in poor condition), renew as necessary. rebuild and try it. It would help you greatly if you could down load the workshop manuals (google it) and borrow the haynes manual. G.

Oh, GOD that is so accurate! I thought it was just me!! G.

Hi Tony, Best of luck with the project! Sounds like a fun way to waste time!! Anyway - can you look up Teri Ann Wakeman? Expedition rover. She has documented a lot of LR work Statestide, and she has some photos of Timm Coopers Spring over axle work. As you are talking Jap, how does a Hi Lux SOA job sound? I don't know much about them but if you search on the Pirate 4x4 you'd see a lot. G.

Get someone else to do it. Sorry - couldn't help that. no, no tips - it's a sod of a job, the only thing that helps is if ensure that the hole, once the bush has been removed, is perfect by gently cleaning it with a hand reamer. For ease of fitment polybusheds are recommended - however some report they wear very fast. G.

Tony, This is very interesting - please - do keep us posted! G.

On the new doors strip the skins off and rust proof both the steel and the ali before reassembly or you'll have the problem again. Fill the window part with waxoil too. G.

Is it the frames that have rotten? You can buy weld-in replacement parts. g.

The aperature dimensions are the same, but the locks and stuff are different - not sure that the strike plates can be swapped over - although a bit of fab work might do it. Why, though? G.

Feels good, doesn't it! Well done! g.

Sounds like a S3 box, so you have a box that may have a problem. Probably retrofitted sometime in the last 40 years. Try the double declutching - its a cheap solution. Failing that you may need to strip down the box and check it out. Or get one reconditioned by a respectable gearbox firm. Or find one second hand. Depends on your skill/time/money/access to workshop etc. G.

To check you have a 2 a box examine where the clutch pipe goes to. If it goes into a slave cylinder at the bellhousing cross member on the left hand side then it is a series 3 box, if it goes to a clutch slave cylinder on a bracket on the right hand side (above the front propshaft) it is a 2a box. g.

That sounds standard for a 2a gearbox. You have to double declutch for a non-syncro gear. 2a gearboxes don't have syncro on 1 and 2. To change or select. Between 1 and 2 or into 2 from 3 Press clutch move gear to neutral release clutch tap accelerator press clutch move into 2 release clutch. becomes habit after a while (so I'm told). G.