Gazzar

I read an article in LRM recently about a 2a that had wolf rims fitted without changing the studs. The wheel came off, the landrover damaged a passing car and was a right off. If it was me I'd change the studs and nuts, I believe Zeus engineering can supply them. No idea if they are any good - their timing gear product didn't receive universal praise. G.

Sorry, I had assumed that as Kingdong was in Manchester he would have a RHD vehicle. Obviously if you are in most other countries you have to put up with the steering wheel being fitted to the wrong side, good thing you also drive on the wrong side of the road, otherwise you'd be in a right mess. Seriously. for LHD vehicles check out Teri Ann Wakeman and her website - she covers a lot of conversion ground, and, as she is based in North America she has had to overcome the "steering wheel on the wrong side" problem. G.

Yes, I know - it is a learning curve. But think it through - air goes in the filter, down a pipe to the turbo, where it is pumped (compressed) into the engine, via the "intercooler" or charge cooler, which reduces the temperature or the air to allow more fuel to be added than otherwise. Thus the main point of entry for air is the air filter. Any holes past this point allow unfiltered air in - or compressed air out. All these things are bad. Ideally you would want to fit a snorkel, as this reduces the chance of a water ingress problem. I believe there are other drains and sensors connected to the air system, which you would want to seal up. On the subject of air filters, if you reuse the oil bath filter fron the series you could run the risk of oil being drawn into the engine - better to use the disco 200 paper filter. The housing just links up to the snorkel, just to make life easier. Stick with the disco manifold, you'll have enough problems fitting intercolers and the like to go looking for more work! All good fun. G.

How did you get on?

I'd be surprised that the location would be a factor regarding water, afterall it is all sealed up. Perhaps I'm not thinking it through. But to answer your question: on a SWB the disco turbo will not foul the chassis rail so no NEED to change it. The Defender turbo manifold is less efficient, as the disco manifold allows air to flow better. So it will down rate the engine, a bit. Nothing to worry about as you can tweak the pump and stuff. I'd stick with the disco as the defender manifolds are expensive to buy. For a lwb the story is different, as the turbo ususally hits the chassis rail. G.

MY '81 2286 petrol, with 48k miles, at tickover, is very quiet. So quiet you have to listen for it. Of course at 30 mph in the field things are different. If it sounds like a tin can of bolts being shaken then something is NOT right. Just checking, given you mention Mercedes (which is metric), that you are using an imperial feeler gauge. Its the sort of thing I'd get wrong. G.

Marcus, Research the rebuild of a dana 60 axle, they are very similar to the salisbury (same company - salisbury is a US corporation - nothing to do with the plain in England). The key problem that I could see was setting up the preload. I'm going to have a go later this year, as I suspect that there are no experts near where I am. I have some links saved on the network, but its broken at the moment so I'll post them later. It looks tough, and painstaking work, special tools look like a dial gauge, a press, and some way of getting the diff out of the case, although there is a workaround for some problems. But doable - if you are willing to risk the loss of the axle. Parts look available from Craddocks, and it might be the opportunity to fit a locker or lsd. Mind you: depending on where in the world, you are it might be cheaper, and easier, to get a new second hand one. Your call, your risk, your loss, your gain. G.

The Aerosol and lighter looks the best for expedition route. I presume that some aerosols are better than others, but having never played with these and lighters (too poor as a young lad to afford cigs - had a land rover to feed) I wouldn't be sure which would be best. can of wd40? hair spray? A practice session before leaving would be a good idea. G.

Got to try that! Beats my current appraoch of sitting on the tyre and hoping that it works! G.

Just checked on mine: that's the set up. My earlier post was wrong, there is a seperate line fron the inlet manifold to the servo. G.

I had similar problems with my 2286, however my problems were more to do with poor petrol (vehicle lying up too long) and, perhaps more relevantly to you, perished connectors on the vacumn advance. The reason I am suggesting you check the connecton is that when you blocked the breather vent from the rocker cover you may have increased the vacumn, and thus the advance. Perhaps? There are two rubber pipe connectors - one on the carb and one on the dizzy. My engine has a metal pipe between the two, although I was told that this is uncommon, and the pipe is usually plastic. Having the dynamic timing right will help. I also replaced the o- ring on the breather cap, this allowed me to have the vacumn system as standard. By the way the other pipe on the tee connector went to the servo on my late series 3. There are two positions on the zenith conrol lever - make sure you have connected throttle cable to correct one. To check the fuel pump I disconnect the fuel pipe at the carb and get someone to turn the engine. Glugs of fuel indicate that the pump is ok. Take all precautions necessary for glugs of flamible liquid splashing about! I suspect you are close to success so peservere! G.

I know what I want for Christmas! Yum. G.

Try changing the fuel filter, and air filter. Check the turbo oil feed pipes. Could be something in the turbo about to go, I don't have enough tea in me this morning to think clearly but I dimly recall there being a seal in the turbo that can go and leak oil into the intake with obvious results. Time to do the tdi. G.

Cardbord milk cartons work if you are stuck ; they are moisture resistant and also have a wax type component that should be oil resistant. Not ideal but, as I say, when you are stuck.................... G

I've owned a set from Screwfix for ages - £30 odd - very good and has taken a fair heap of use with the ford service tool number 3 (BIGGER HAMMER). Not perfect but very very good! Even has the all important Landrover Series III wheel nut socket. Description: 37 Piece Impact Socket Set Drop-forged, heat-treated, Chrome Vanadium socket set finished in black oxide. 7 piece 3/8" drive shallow impact sockets 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 16 and 17mm. 6 piece 3/8" drive shallow impact sockets, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 1 1/16" and 3/4". 11 piece 1/2" drive deep impact sockets 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 21 and 24mm. 10 piece 1/2" drive deep impact sockets 1/2", 8/16", 1 1/16", 3/4", 1 3/16", 7/8", 1", 1-1/16" and 1-1/4". 1/2" drive 3" extension. 3/8" drive 3" extension. 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor. Link to what looks like the same set (the box I got was blue). http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsession...amp;x=2&y=0 G.

If swapping springs just swaps the lean, why can't you take the spring packs apart and swap over , say, half of the leaves? Good opportunity to paint them up and apply a low friction coating. G.

Both Discovery steel rims and series rims have the Dunlop symbol stamped on them - perhaps Dunlop are the OEM supplier to Land rover? G.

Current makita stuff isn't up to the standards of the older equipment - the grinders used to have thermostatic protection - this feature is no longer fitted. I have seen one or two which have been burned out. And gearboxes bust. The Hitachi stuff I've used and seen is good. Tough, well built and can take continious heavy use in dusty hot environment. But you can't beat the Aldi grinders - cheap, rough but solid and reliable. And they have a switch lock so can be left running without having to hold the handle! I can't stand stuff that is so safe it can't be used. Black and decker "diy" is best avoided if you have the money or other options, Bosch green range is ok, but only marginally better than B&D.. Bosch blue is much better. Bosch 110v is very tough, as is the DeWalt, my 12 v is a great little drill, used and abused and still kicking! B& Q "P" or "Pro" ranges are good value for money, but crude. G.

The offset on disco rims is startling! it looks like the whole rim is inside the mounting face. they do look good in gloss black. but not so good if you want to go around sharp bends. 7 inch, though. G.

make sure the clutch and gearbox are the same type, a series 2a clutch won't work on a series 3 gearbox. that's whAt caused the first problem last time i did this. G.

This is one of the jobs I'll be facing in the summer - so I found this web page when searching. It covers the rebuild of the dana axle, which I believe is a variant on the salisbury. There are some good tips and gotchas, it is written in american, and quite readable. Sorry, I can't post this in the technical section, but I'm sure it would be of benefit to defender owners too. http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/2...60_Rebuild.html Regards, G.

Interestingly enough, Teri Ann Wakeman lists it at 204 kg. link thing: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/enginePwrSpecs.htm G.

Lars, Waxoyl will protect your investment, good thinking. I'd worry about the 40mm holes - bit big I'd think. Do you have good access to a power washer and an air compressor? If you do then use the power washer on each of the access holes you already have. Then, after the worst has been removed use an air blower gun (or what ever its called - little device that squirts air when the trigger is pulled) to dry the inside of the chassis. You could even try a vacumn cleaner to remove any remaining dirt/dust. If you are not happy that it is clean rinse and repeat. After you have waxoyled then think about plugs for the holes in the chassis - at least when off roading! A tip I heard on anouther forum: mix good new engine oil into the waxoyl (10% or so) - this allows the waxoyl to soak into deposits of dirt and rust. At 10% concentration it doesn't drip and pollute. G.

Simon, I presume you're not going to tell the Revenue about the chassis swap? Thats because you are not going to ever take it on the road, right? G