BogMonster

Yes it could be (ie it probably is) and the proper way to tell is to plug it into a diagnostic computer which will tell you which one is playing up. There is info on here somewhere if you do a search, about a DIY method of measuring the individual sensors for resistance/open circuit which you may be able to do.

Oooh Pirate are a bit harsh Must read it all later when I have time

Commercial discussions to PM please chaps!

Various places do them and about 200 quid a set so I would look at alternative options. Oh and the wheels occasionally fall off, if you do a search it has been discussed on LR4x4 recently. Small point but worth mentioning

Allegedly, Steve, I am sure you meant

I don't think so, think it is just P38s but TBH I have not actually tried...

Blimey, A level physics <digs into back of mind>... as my old Physics teacher would say "Right you lot lets do some sums" P=IV thus a 21W bulb would be 21=Ix14 (ish) so the current draw I will be 21/14 or about 1.5A V=IR thus 14=1.5 x R so resistance R of a 21w bulb should be 14/1.5 about 9.33 ohms per bulb Remember that if you have bulbs in parallel the resistance reduces rather than increases so you will need more sums depending on how many bulbs you are driving Depends on what voltage the wattage rating is calculated at but I would assume the operating voltage 14V rather than the engine off voltage of 12.5ish. Begs the question - what is the point in installing low power LED bulbs then putting in resistors which soak up the same amount of power as a filament bulb, which brings you back to square one but at several times the cost

Moved to International for more visibility

I think they have done it at work but couldn't be 100% about that

You can split the images across several posts, if you do this I will tidy it up for you and then it looks like one for the tech archive - thanks Edited to add please could you upload the pictures at a smaller size say 800x600 this may solve the space problem!

Had marine ply on mine, with a rear door spare wheel carrier bolted through it to hold the spare. Great, but the door handles touched on corners. Not sure of the weight but I know it took four of us to swap it from my old red 90 to the grey one when I bought that, and it was ruddy heavy even with four - and without the spare on the rack. Or the bridge boards. Or the ground anchor.... 75kg max roof weight they say in the book I wouldn't want to drive one on fast European roads with that much on the roof though.

You can buy cheap aftermarket sensors for a fraction of the cost of the genuine ones so I would take that route!

Interior has some minor updates (new colour scheme), the brakes are improved on the 03/04, headlights obviously, the rear lights have been changed around (reverse and indicator lights changed places). The centre difflock was reintroduced as an option.

The early vehicles had a problem with the rear lifting eye chafing through heater hoses IIRC, and this may be why it had been removed.

All the ones here have the ignition key that opens the door cap, but the fuel cap still needs a separate key. Changed in 2002 I think, and as far as I know the Pumas are the same. So Defender has now made it into the 20th century

Has something gone wrong since you got it or do you just think the gears are stiff in comparison to whatever you used to drive? Just wondering if there is a fault or whether it is "just a 4x4 gearbox" ... though the Getrag box in the Td4 is not what I would call stiff, it probably is heavier than most modern cars.

The other thing to check is that the clamps that hold the UJs on to the steering shafts are tight, I had this and it took me friggin ages to find it, eventually found one of the clamp bolts loose which wouldn't have been fun if it had come right out

Are you sure it is not a 10? e.g EKA of 31074 is not 3-1-0-7-4 but 3-10-7-4 -- just a thought... As you say an EKA code should not have a 0 in it, never seen one anyway. Radio codes can though. Unless it is the key serial number, in which case that is possible, but I didn't think Freeloaders had key numbers.

Depends on the fault. Some faults i.e. airbag/ABS safety related ones, may not reset without a computer.

235/85R16 are more or less the same as the standard 7.50R16 fit, so unless as GBMUD said it might have 205/80R16 fitted, the speedo drive will be OK, or if it isn't change it for one out of a 110. As for nuts - shouldn't *ever* use steel nuts on a LR alloy wheel as they are completely different! The reverse can be done i.e. the alloy nuts on a steel wheel, as the alloy nuts have a chamfer on the inside to locate the wheel, but it looks hideous. It is OK with Land Rover though, because the Tdi Discoverys from the factory mostly had a steel spare wheel and used the same alloy wheel nuts when required.

See also the CalVIN calculator which may be of interest http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html

The bit you are referring to is the model year immediately prefixing the six digit serial number at the end of the VIN. FA 1989 GA 1990 HA 1991 JA 1992 KA 1993 LA 1994 MA1995 TA 1996 VA 1997 WA 1998 XA 1999 YA 2000 1A 2001 2A 2002 then on up to 9A - 2009 model year which is current So a Discovery SALLJGMF7TA500000 would be a 1996 model year

Oi! The standard one is called an "E", the County equivalent is an "S", and then you have the XS etc as found in Chelsea

You can get Countys, or as it is now known the S pack - had a nice one in the other day, a Puma 110SW S, aircon fitted, electric windows, remote central locking etc plus full carpeted interior to soak up the rain

Uncle Bog has arrived Ralph is more or less correct (as usual ) There are: ROW spec 300Tdis from pre 1998 which were basically "non EGR non Cat" versions of what you would buy in the UK. ROW spec Tdi Discoverys had a non EDC engine on the automatic model, whereas the UK version had EDC on all autos. ROW spec Td5 engines have the EGR deleted on later vehicles (2002 onwards) and also (I think) no cat in the exhaust. I believe there is also a difference in the ECU tune though I don't know what the difference is - anyway it is designed to make the engine more tolerant to poor quality fuel, which is effective right up until the fuel pump packs up with all the Sh&%^ in it However there isn't a definite answer as you can also get ROW engines which do have EGR (as an option) so it is not that simple... As you will all know the 300Tdi was discontinued for legislative markets (UK/EU etc) in 1998 and replaced by the Td5 engine. However the 300Tdi continued in production up to the end of 2006 model year, alongside the Td5, and you could order either for the non-legislative export countries, i.e. those without lots of interfering busybodies counting all their ozones - the only difference being that the Tdi engines were built in South America - I believe the rights to manufacture it were sold to the Brazilian company International, who then developed it into the 2.8 TGV as well as building them under license for Land Rover. The Tdi was finally killed off, with the Td5, at the end of 06 model year, and the only option is the Puma from 2007 model onwards. There is no longer a "ROW spec" for the Puma engined vehicles, what they ship to these parts now is called "MMR" which stands for "minor markets RHD" - basically the same thing though. The ones here are built to EU2 emissions, but you can get an EU4 which I think is more or less the same as UK version. The other differences are that some of the posh options and derivatives (e.g. the Defender XS vehicles) are not available on ROW/MMR vehicles which tend to have a more basic spec level, so my 110 (2006 300Tdi, as Ralph says similar to a Td5 of the same age apart from the engine) has a white roof, rubber floor coverings, manual windows, no central locking or alarm system. Here endeth the lesson