BogMonster

Just added the beads, why? I figured that the wheels were less wobbly with the lead on than without, so there would be less work for the beads to do, but now you have asked, my head is going round in circles about whether you should in fact put them in a completely unbalanced wheel for them to work properly What's the verdict?

Yes ... correct ... as long as the EGR valve is not already jammed open!

I might put the other 2 bags in the rear tyres next time I swap wheels over, and then put them on the front next time I use them, see what happens...

Update - have now put 8oz of D4x4 Counteract beads in each front wheel. Contrary to what you might think looking at them, they do not fit through the valve stem (no idea why as they look as if they should do, but they don't!) - I know this having made a nice little adaptor to screw on the valve stem with a length of plastic pipe and a funnel to tip them into, only to find it didn't work First impressions were that there was little difference and there was lots of dark muttering, but after driving for a while (5-10 miles) the shake reduced quite a lot so there is now nothing worth worrying about under 50mph, but there is still a terrible shake at about 55, or rather there would be if the main road speed limit here wasn't 40mph So they are not the perfect solution but definitely worth it where there is a problem as they have made mine noticeably better. Bear in mind there is nearly 1/2 a kilo of lead on each front rim already so these tyres were WAY out of balance! I did wonder if putting the other two bags in the fronts to double the weight of beads in each wheel would make it better - can you have too many of these things in a wheel? - or do the excess ones just spread themselves evenly around the inside once the wheel is balanced?

I agree. I have never broken anything... though admittedly there is not much rock crawling to be had here Famous last words

Blanking the EGR on a ROW causes no problems or lights either, as above it usually improves matters!

Minor differences like the bottom shock absorber bushes are different on 300s (easily altered to the 200 type bushes though you will need new shockers to do it properly as the pin on the bottom is a different length) - I don't think there is anything that can't be modified to suit. There might be no anti roll bar brackets on the 200 axles, but the main suspension pickup points should be the same and the diff should fit OK. The only other thing I am not sure about is where the calipers bolt on, check that is OK or if not you could fit a set of 200 calipers.

Probably not what you want to hear but they are on back order at Bearmach at the moment as we've been trying to get some...

Yep that sounds like symptoms for the leaky washers, one we had at work was like that and it was before we knew what caused the problem, noisy fuel pump and sounds of air in the system, intermittent non start or cutting out when running. I think if you change the copper washers the problem will disappear - good luck

Here is a picture http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17362

If you are having starting or cutting out problems then the fault will more likely be with the copper washers that seal where the injector goes into the cylinder rather than the O rings. These leak and a small amount of combustion gas gets into the fuel rail which means that the engine either stops dead or won't start. Can be a very intermittent fault. I would definitely not recommend reusing the copper washers even if it isn't your problem as you will be sure to have a problem with them in the future if you do! It doesn't affect a large proportion of vehicles - maybe 5 to 10 percent - but enough to make it not worth taking shortcuts. I've not changed injectors personally but I don't think there are hidden dangers with changing the injectors. There is however a slide hammer listed under special tools so it might be prudent to have one available.... there are also special tools for fitting the new O rings but I don't think you would need to worry about those.

I would have thought a big Foff ARB roo bar would be more effective in addressing that problem

Next cutback will be Monday morning

Just measured mine this morning with a gauge - 235/70R16 size New tyre in the shop is about 13mm tread Fronts have 11mm left Rears have 10.5mm left (the Ranger is 2WD most of the time so wears the rears quicker) Not sure of the mileage probably about 4000 miles which would suggest they should be good for 20k or so. This might sound horrendous but bear in mind that a set of BFG ATs only lasts me to the mid 20k miles on the roads here - so the wear rate of the AT2s on my Ranger is not much different to the wear rate of the BFGs on the Discovery. Not exactly a back to back comparison but looks promising to me.

As Ian said, fuel pressure and then check the injector adjustment. They don't run brilliantly when the injector plungers are set all wrong, and you said the injectors have been changed? The injector balancing figure sounds a bit high to me, a good one in my experience is usually all staying under 5 and hovering around 0 to 3 most of the time.

There are also some "educational" photos on here somewhere posted by Jim. Apparently the only way known to bore out an engine without taking the head off

Don't think that would be correct - based on that you could put any vehicle with factory tyres off the road here after one trip out to the airport because you won't see out of anything except the windscreen even running 7.50s on standard rims

It's probably just the ones who think that anything newer than a 1948 Series 1 hybrid on Firestone SATs is heresy and the culprit should be burned on a stake Seriously though, I'd like to see a technical reason why they would be banned when presumably people who chop up and re-weld steel rims to alter the offset are allowed to do that (no disrespect to the people who do that BTW - but it is basically doing the same thing!)

I don't know about your one, most of the aftermarket double cardan props claim to be "fully rebuildable" - I just know that LR don't (or didn't) make the bit for the original factory fitted D2 prop.

I would say a little bit of oil is more likely to (initially) cause horrible judder when you are taking up drive, rather than actual slippage.

There is a ball joint which ensures that the two joints at the "double" end both move by the same amount, otherwise it would be a bit like somebody with no knee joint i.e. would flop about all over the place and then snap off No idea on the one pictured but AFAIK on the genuine LR one for a D2 you can change the UJ but not the other bit with the balljoint in. Which of course is the bit that fails...

Why not - if they are TUV approved etc? Not trying to start an argument, just curious...

"I have got some propshaft vibration does anybody know what the problem might be?"

Got them on my Ranger and agree with all of the above - I would buy another set without hesitation and I would buy them over the BFG AT because of the price difference (I have BFGs on the Discovery). I don't know how the UK prices compare but BFGs are 25% more expensive here. They tend to lock up and slide on the back of the Ranger when braking hard in the wet, but then so did the old road tyres and I think this has more to do with the fact the back end of most of the Jap pickups doesn't weigh much when empty, and weighs even less when you stand hard on the brakes I don't think they will last as long as BFGs but that remains to be seen - no signs of wear on mine yet even with quite a few miles in 2WD on gravel which is a tyre-chewing business at the best of times.

Snap - we've got an Acrobat too - its about 10 years older than me I think