=jon=

Cool - thanks

I found similar - too low and they aren't that impressive, but adjust them up a small amount and all of a sudden they seem a load brighter! Is anyone else noticing condensation/mist inside them after having them turned on for a while? Mine have a tiny bit of mist on the insides of the lenses after they have been running for a while - guess they were assembled somewhere humid and it's condensing on the inside of the lens now its cold outside...

My brake servo started hissing ominously on the journey to the station this morning - so I have a feeling there is a vac leak there that's chucking the idle mixture way off.... :-(

Wideband is about under the front passenger seatbox, along with the closed loop controller sensor. It's probably me just not adjusting the gas pressure enough - did some more research last night online so will have another play when I get a chance...

Had another fiddle today - wound the manual 'power valve' all the way out. Disconnected the stepper when it was under lean condition (ie. fully open). I still can't get it to idle with a decent mixture - according the wideband it's at about 19:1. It ticks over fine, but obv isn't right. Under load it's fine - cruise it's at about 15:1 which is somewhere close (stoich on gas is 15.7 I think), under hard acceleration it's in the 14's. Will have another play with the main gas pressure next time - the idle pressure screw didn't seem to make any difference when I was playing All a bit trial and error really - I did manage to get it to properly backfire and blow half of the pipework off earlier!

I found a few bits and pieces relating to the LPG but no bigas manual - I did look Bowie - Tinley said that the closed loop stepper would work OK with the BLOS, so it should be OK once it's set up - and to get the stepper to fully open then disconnect it while tuning..

Perfect - thanks for that... There's two screws on the vaporiser, one appears to be idle, the other appears to be the main tension. There's a closed loop controller fitted which also has a stepper in the main gas pipe, along with a manual adjustment valve... When you set it up initially at 3000rpm - was that under no load, or driving?

Did some more tinkering over the weekend - with the advance curves as above the LPG map is very similar to Zoltans. If anything his is a few degrees more advanced at higher revs... Also got the BLOS carb fitted. Managed to get it setup, ish - at idle it's still very weak (AFRs of 17-18 or so), and it's lean at cruise, but flat out it richens up to low 14's, high 13's. The BLOS is at the limit of it's adjustment though. Am I right in thinking that I can richen up the idle via the adjustments on the vaporiser, and the overall mixture via the valve in line with the gas pipe? My thinking is that as there's a set of adjusters on the BLOS which weren't there before on the cooker ring, I can add more gas flow at the vaporiser end, and limit it back at the BLOS end... Anyone know control which is which on a Bigas M84? I think the idle screw is the smaller one at the back, and the larger screw shouldn't be touched (diaphragm pressure?), but I can't find any decent instructions anywhere...

Sorry for the lack of updates, work has been busy recently... I asked Tinley - they said they don't have much experience of MS with LPG, but suggested something along the lines of: Hopefully I can get some time to have a look at see how it runs with a map similar to the above compared...

How big is it and whereabouts in Ireland?

bodumatau: That's where my alternator is at the moment, on the LHS of the engine (references from being sat in the car)... I'm looking about swapping it to the RHS

Thanks Paul.. I did some googling and found the curve suggesting that it should be more advanced low down and less further up... I'll drop Tinley a mail - they just sold me a BLOS carb for the old girl and were very helpful regarding that, will see what they say..

This appears to be the 'correct' bracket for mounting the alternator on the RHS of the engine: http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/Silverxxx670/media/Engine/20130605_185831_zps3a36232a.jpg.html It's different to what I have, which looks to be: http://www.handhsurplus.co.uk/product/land-rover-military-defender-90110-snatch-v8-air-con-pump-mount-erc7494/ If you are using the later mount, how does your belt routing work out - does it use the spare pulley or replace the tensioner and run on the same belt as the water pump?

Sorry for the delay, been busy with work... Yours: Mine: Interesting to see the difference - yours isn't that different on the petrol side of things, but mine is a lot, lot more advanced on LPG - just +10degrees across the board. I've not heard it knocking, but it's pretty noisy. It's also been running as is (apart from some minor intake changes by me) for many thousands of miles... It'd be interesting to know where the basemap came from - and if someone with 'tuned ears' and mapping experience could tweak the basemap for more power if it's fairly safe and retarded as supplied... I asked someone that I've used for remapping other cars but he wasn't interested in touching something with LPG...

Hi, It seems to have attached OK - let me check I can open it... Thanks Jon

Drag the welder up on top of the container and weld it shut at the top (or add some more padlock points). It'd be a bugger to get to, and in the dark you probably wouldn't see it to be able to figure out why the door wouldn't open...

Hi All, For those of you running MS / MJ with switchable maps for LPG, is it possible to post your petrol maps along with your LPG maps please, for comparison, along with the specs of your engine? I've found a load of LPG maps posted before, but not in comparison with the petrol map to show what the delta is between the two... It'd be a useful resource for the future - if anything the offsets are more useful than the raw tables as they can more easily be adapted to other setups... Doing a lot of googling suggests that LPG should be more advanced than the petrol map up to a point, and then retarded compared to at higher RPMs, eg: http://www.acl.com.au/web/acl00056.nsf/0/359683e8a538a3e64a2566c0007bb33e?OpenDocument At the moment mine is set at +10 degrees for LPG across the board, which suggests it may not be set 'optimally'... Thanks Jon

Mike - any chance you can take a pic? Looking at the alternator that I've got at the moment, there's a possibility it's non standard (it's made by Bosch and looks like it may be 100A+)... Judging it by eye it looks like it would sit too far back if it was on the AC bracket.. A pic would help figure the mounts out

Hi All, Does anyone have a write up or know what parts are needed to swap a non-serp v8 alternator from the passenger side to the drivers side? I'd imagine it must be possible as plenty of people are running twin alternator setups... For space reasons I'd like to swap it over, and it also looks like the unused pulley on the front of the engine (for the AC?) is a bigger belt so it would be less likely to slip under heavy load... I've got an AC bracket on the front of the engine already, as the previous owner was going to fit onboard air at some point... Thanks Jon

Work light doesn't look bad for a freebie!!

Take a pic just to really rub it in And of the bezels too, I saw them mentioned on the d2 thread but don't think I saw any pics..

I didn't get a worklight :(

They are dead simple to fit as you know.. I need to adjust the aim of mine as they were low (but so were the old lights too, my fault!) but they are way way brighter than the H4 units..

I've a turbocharged mazda mx5 that's been gathering dust after an engine rebuild for close to 2 years (runs but needs some rewiring, running in and remapping) - I think if I took another project on that required an engine rebuild/swap I would get some comments from the family!!

Sorry - missed that... Go for it - upping the power is a long term plan, I have some other projects I have to get finished first!!