=jon=

OK- wired this up and tested yesterday, the idle valve now works as expected and it starts and ticks over very nicely on closed loop from cold when on petrol... However - when on gas it's not so happy - come up to a queue of traffic, stop in gear (it's an auto) and it will slowly get rougher and rougher and then stall. I think it's because it's a single point LPG system, and the IAC valve is essentially bleeding air past it, so it gets weaker and weaker, the MS compensates for the drop in revs by opening the valve more, until it stalls. I guess the solutions are: Only use the valve for warmup (which happens pretty quickly) when it's likely to be on petrol anyway. Find some way of disabling the valve when it's on gas somehow. I can't just disconnect it as it doesn't 'park' fully closed. Any suggestions? Thanks Jon

Just tried it with the TIP122 isolated from the heatsink rail and now the PWM control works as you'd expect with the bulb... Time to order some insulators!

OK - so I found another link that has it wired up like you had yours on the MS Extra side - the diode is the flyback diode, but it should be easy enough to put back... It also looks like the transistor needs a mica insulator beneath it, if one isn't there it'll appear to be full short all the time - and I can't see one on the pic...

I think these are meant for 90s but would probably work on a 110 as well: http://www.bordermotorsport.co.uk/index.php?id_product=71&controller=product I was thinking of getting some as I have a set of 90 mudflaps and now have a 110 that doesn't appear to have any mounts for them!

I've just resoldered it to match the DIY Autotune link and it still doesn't work - changing the PWM settings doesn't have any effect on the bulb Am at a loss now

Hi, Comparing what you've done to what's listed at: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-pwm-iac-valve-control-tip120-39modkit39-p-134.html They say wire the big transistor across Q4, remove Q20 and D8, and jumper R39. Your MS has B & C connected, A is jumpered across R39, and there's a diode that goes back to S12 (which looks to be +12v)... Pic of the board at: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zw61sre1yww331z/2015-04-04%2016.31.01.jpg?dl=0 Any pointers. My electronics skills are pretty basic compared to yours!!

Hi, The Thor IAC is regulated via PWM - so a square wave pulse of varying frequency. If you put a bulb across a PWM feed it'll flash on and off very fast (probably quicker than the human eye can see) - the slower the PWM frequency the dimmer it'll get

Hi Paul, Can you remember if you made the optional hardware mods inside the MS to drive an IAC? It appears you have to swap out one of the transistors internally: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-pwm-iac-valve-control-tip120-39modkit39-p-134.html If you can't remember I'll go check but it's a mission to pull all the centre console apart to get to it! Cheers Jon

I *think* (but to be fair haven't checked) in my case that there's already a relay in situ anyway - the ignition switch triggers a relay down near the fuse board that switches the solenoid... My previous 90 was like that anyway, I'd imagine the 110 is the same...

Mine's wired similar to that - the start position on the back of the ignition switch goes via the switch on the auto box, so if the box isn't in park the circuit is broken so the starter doesn't fire...

Did some playing today - the IAC valve is working when connected directly to 12V - it'll open/close depending which pin you connect. However, it doesn't look like the output from the MS is working - I can force the duty to 10% / 90% in tunerstudio, but the bulb didn't change brighness at all, so it looks like something isn't wired up right... We blocked off the IAC valve and the idle speed dropped low enough that it wouldn't run, so we upped the idle and now if anything it runs better than with the IAC valve present but disconnected - I guess it had been set up previously with the valve present but slightly cracked open which was almost the same as having an air leak all the time...

Hi, Yeah, If I open up the relay box there's a big resistor inline, and it looks like the FIdle relay is jumpered out. Some good things to test there - many thanks! I hadn't thought of using a bulb across it to check the operation from the ECU.. I'll carry on fiddling over the weekend Jon

Had another play with the settings, and no matter what I select in tunerstudio plugging in the IAC valve causes the revs to climb to about 2000 and hunt a bit... I've played with the valve settings, PID values etc and nothing changes... Doing a bit more digging - it seems that if you are trying to use PWM and you are using a relay board, you need to jumper out the relay: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=30394 Next thing on the list to try - although I don't hear the relay clicking as it suggests I should, but I'm not sure I would from the engine bay over the v8.... Edit - just took the cover off the relay board - if the FIdle relay is closest to the DB connector, it's jumpered already...

I insured my old 90 which had a ford v6 in it with A-Plan - if you google the number for their thatcham branch they have a specialist 4x4 division...

Just did some checking - it's a 3 wire one, and one of the pins is 35Ohms to earth. Plugging it in and selecting PWM closed loop in tunerstudio causes the revs to hunt, so it appears to be working... Does anyone have a set of base settings (idle speeds, duty cycles, PID values etc) to get me started along the right track please? Thanks Jon

I think it's the Thor one - I'll check when I get back home. Do you have some more details on the resistor that's needed? I guess I'll need to pull the MS apart to check if it's there? Ahh - found it http://www.extraefi.co.uk/idlevalve.htm#3wire Cheers Jon

Hello All, On my recently acquired 110, the idle control valve isn't connected up, and it's not setup in MS - idle is only set mechanically at the moment. Does anyone have a rough set of starter settings to get me going? It's a 3.5 v8 with Thor heads if that makes any difference Cheers Jon

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html

Sure - I've not had the series for close to 2 years and they've been in my parents garage since so there's no rush!

Just had a look through my old orders - I think they are fronts not rears, and they may be britpart not armstrong (paddock didn't quote a manufacturer and I don't have them to hand at the moment to check).. You are still welcome to them though - let me know!

Maybe in the 80's it was like that, or if you are chasing huge power with a small engine, but a modern well setup turbo has very little lag and will start making positive boost at a very low rev range. The old setup I had on my MX5 was a diddy little garret turbo - it started making positive boost at about 1200 RPM which would increase linearly as the revs came up. Driving it it was very much like a car with a larger engine, or just like a supercharged one but without the whine...

I have a pair of virtually new standard series shocks that are left over if you want them - I think they are standard armstrong ones. You are welcome to them if you have someway of getting them from Oxford to you! Thanks Jon

One other thing to bear in mind while it's all out - have you considered a 2.5 petrol from an early defender? I had one in my old series and it was considerably more powerful than the 2.25 it replaced. Other than that it was identical externally other than the throttle linkage so dead easy to fit... They can be bought for absolute peanuts as well as nobody wants them...

Nice project Would using a throttle body injection unit not be a huge, huge amount easier? You are going to bypass a massive amount of hassle getting each injector mounted / angled right / fed properly, and to be honest, the power / efficiency gains on an old engine like a series are going to be totally minimal... If you check out www.ep90.com, TSD from here did the same to a ford essex v6 with good results. I was going to do the same to mine, and even got as far as buying everything needed bar a fuel pump, but circumstances have changed and the 90 is for sale... If you are interested in a brand new professionally built MS2, trigger wheel, GM injection throttle body etc drop me a PM! (There's also EDIS 6 & Coils but they are of less use!). Sorry for the shameless ad!

I bought a set, I've not noticed any issues with it, seemed OK to me but the 110 is laid up at the moment and not in general use!! I'll have a look at it later and see if it's the same...