=jon=

Just did some very scientific testing - the car definitely feels like it goes better with the cone top removed and just a plain open pipe. I've ordered a knock-off safari style top from fleabay to try... I did wonder about trying to make a 'stumpy' snorkel - really all I need is a cold air feed for the v8 with as little restriction as possible... It's highly unlikely that I'll go wading thru 4ft of water (and if I did various other bits would stop the engine before then!) - so I wondered about a small pipe up to about the level of the window hinge with a safari top on it, but dunno if it would look ridiculous!!

I might try unbolting it and seeing what happens...

I thought a few people might be interested in this Yeah, I think it will be a bit OTT as well - the rear silencer is pretty tiddly, and turbos dampen sound a lot... It seems Allisport make a 90 smaller silencer: http://www.allisport.com/product/allisport-land-rover-defender-td5-90-centre-silencer-removal-bullet-silencer/ but it's very tiddly and not available for the 110... Guess the ideal solution is to buy a straight through pipe and stick a smaller silencer in the middle (or take it to an exhaust fab and get something made up - at least then they should have a selection of silencer sizes to tune the noise level...)

Slightly OT - but has anyone who fitted a TD5 exhaust on a v8 tried without the mahoosive centre silencer in it? The v8 rumble is a bit muted, it needs to be a smidge louder (but not OTT loud!) From looking at the TD5 threads, the centre silencer doesn't seem to do much noise wise - but they have a turbo and lots of smoke particles to dampen the sound... If anyone has a 110 TD5 with a straight through midpipe and is local to me, I wouldn't mind trying one to see what it sounds like...

I've got a K&N Apollo on mine too.. Watch out buying cheap K&N / BMC filters from ebay - there's quite a few fakes about...

I need the music to drown out the voices in my head

Hi I thought I'd share this as there's quite a few historic threads asking about how to make a defender's radio sound better... I took a punt on a set of these: http://www.richersounds.com/product/standmount-speakers/tibo/edge-mini/tibo-edge-mini Tibo Edge Mini speakers at £19.95. I know they are meant for use in a house, but at £20 I didn't think I could go wrong (and the impedance is 4Ohm the same as most car speakers)... They fit almost perfectly under the second row seats - on their sides you have to tip the seats forwards to get them underneath the seat frame. I bodgetastically mounted them via cable tie to the seat frame to stop them sliding round. Sound wise they are a massive, massive improvement over just having my £20 pioneer speakers that are in the standard dash locations. There's now real bass thump, and you can still hear music over 50mph! It sounds a lot lot better than it did, probably better than most factory car setups! I still have some playing to do with the bass ports - at the moment they are firing straight at the rear seat bracket, so the bass can be a bit boomy - I tried blocking the bass port which has helped, but I may try turning the speakers round (so woofers in the middle of the car) so the bass port is firing into free air at some point... I may also get some metal grilles to cover the delicate speaker cones - they are pretty tucked out of the way under the seats, but they might get poked with something by mistake...

I had a look at my snorkel - it appears the pipework is already 3" I read somewhere that the upturned cone pre-filter things: Have a lot more resistance than the safari type ones: I've got the former on mine, may try taking it off on a dry day, reconnecting the snorkel and seeing if it makes any difference. At the moment my intake is drawing air from close to the manifold, and hot air is never ideal!

I drove across france with mine last year - I didn't bother with changing the beam, the kick up is pretty minor...

I think there's a goldfish in the contraption at the top... Doug - PM inbound...

Does anyone make an off the shelf 3" snorkel, or are they all going to be homebrew jobs?

Less touchscreens. Having car controlled by touch is all very fancy and great when you are stationary, but a complete pain in the behind when you are moving! The current trend appears to be to drive everything from touch (eg. Tesla) - where really you can't beat having physical controls that you can reach for and operate without having to take your eyes off the road...

Thanks - looks like I may have to find someone with a pipe bender then!

Sorry for the hijack - where did you get the 3" Snorkel from? I've got a 2 1/2" or so one on mine and it strangles my v8, so it's disconnected...

Thanks - is that the stuff that's like sticky back rubber that you can stick on the pads?

Hi I know there's been a few brake pad threads on here, but another one never hurts... I had to change the pad recently on the front of the 110 (vented discs, later type solid pin & cotter pin calipers). I ordered another set of mintex pads (STC2952M) and swapped them over. The old pads appeared to be exactly the same mintex part number on the back of the pad. Ever since they rattle like crazy and drive me mad, and a moderately large hill will cause them to smoke / fade. Having a look at them they are very loose in the caliper, whereas the old ones weren't, so I wonder if they have changed the composition and the fit slightly... Any suggestions on some new pads that will take a reasonable amount of downhill without fading, and fit the calipers well enough to not drive me bonkers?? Thanks Jon

I didn't need to use any olives on mine - the Y pipe mates straight up to the back box. It appears to have a corresponding bulge / mating face and doesn't appear to leak. My Y pipes leak as well though - typical blue box bad quality We are going to weld them up at some point as well...

I think you need the manufacturer specific ones to reset fault codes related to SRS (airbags etc). I've got a cheap fault code reader - ELM based from ebay and it works OK for reading engine parameters. It's bluetooth, and there's an app on android called Torque that reads / resets codes. If it's engine related, there's a good chance that if you fix the cause the light will go away. For most cars there's also a way to read the specific fault without a reader. Not sure which specific Corsa yours is, but something like this: http://www.corsa-c.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?134139-How-to-do-the-pedal-test-and-what-the-Fault-codes-mean

A very (very!) rough drawing as to the differences from memory, not at all to accurate scale: The top spacing is the same. For the bottom you have to put an L shaped plate below and to the left to get it to be the same width & length as the defender one..

We used the top holes as the datum. We had to extend the lower part of the plate down by about 1", and make the spacing the same as the top holes. We welded on extra plate a similar thickness to the original, rather than chopping the whole lot off and starting again. If you offer up the Disco one against a Def one it should all become obvious...

I've got a Sealey battery one: http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&method=mViewProduct&productid=12317 I paid about 1/2 of that price from tooled-up or somewhere similar though! It was OK - it's good when the battery is full, as it starts dropping then the torque drops rapidly too. It's not as powerful as a proper air one though.. After not a lot of use the battery pack is scrap and doesn't charge.. At some point i'm going to have to source / build another one... I'd prob suggest a set of earplugs as the best solution!!

I thought week 3 was much better than previous weeks - I think they are listening very carefully to feedback and trying to tune the format... For those of you that like looking at automotive build porn - the build of the Ken Block 'Hoonicorn' mustang is very very impressive: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/12/the-hoonicorn-rtr-build-story/

it looks a lot better thought out than the britpart one I put on mine, especially where the pipes Y into each other!

Thanks - I have a pic of the board somewhere I think, easier than taking half of the car apart to get to the ECU....

Is there an easy way to check regarding the ECU current limit? AFAIK it's a fairly standard build - HoSS built it so he may know...