=jon=

Thanks everyone... For those that did the tints yourself - did you use the pre-cut kits, or off a roll? From what the tint chappie was saying he'd actually remove the windows, tint them and refit, I guess you didn't go to all that trouble? Did you just tuck the edge or the tint into the window seal? Thanks Jon

For the rear, I think you can go as dark as you like - but driving at night turns into a pain as you can't see for reversing or non-square junctions easily if they tint is too dark..

Hi, I've been looking at getting the rear windows tinted in my 110 CSW (with fixed rear windows) to keep it a bit cooler and stop it being so easy to peer in the back - however the local tint place is asking north of £300 for tinting the rear doors backwards, and will only consider it if I strip all of the interior trim out as apparently there are a total PITA to do as everything is so time consuming compared to a 'modern' car... I've not got a garage / enough patience to do it myself so have been looking at other options... Has anyone tried a set of custom window shades such as: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Window-Sun-Blinds-Privacy-UV-Shades-Land-Rover-Defender-90-3-Door-1990-on-/231149622791?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35d1975607 They are a bit pricey, but if they are any good they are still cheaper than a 'proper' tint... Any other suggestions? I did wonder about getting some fine mozzie mesh type stuff and making my own, securing it with the window trims but as it would be held off the glass it might look a bit naff, unless someone can come up with a bright idea to secure it to the glass, or to the inside of the window seal? Thanks Jon

Ahh, OK. I'm about to fit one to my v8, I was going to try and run it off the megasquirt or the EDIS pulse...

How are you driving it - from the alternator or from an ignition pulse? The dip switches are for the ignition pulse (LT side of coil, EDIS module etc) - and this shouldn't need adjusting. The adjuster wotsit is for if you are driving it from the W terminal on an alternator (eg. on a diesel where there's no coil) - as the pulley sizes for different cars vary, the alternator spins at a different speed, so you have to calibrate the alternator pulse to get the rev counter to read reasonably accurately..

Is there an autojumble type thing on there as well? Details on there site seem pretty light... If it's just static cars I may give it a miss - had enough of them at Goodwood yesterday!

I was going to say something similar - most oils are made to a standard spec in a large refinery somewhere and stuck in different coloured bottles to suit whoever is branding it - the contents are often the same. As long as it's got the relevant lists of letters and suitability codes it'll do the job...

Quick thread bump - Nakatanenga (try saying that after a few pints, let along typing it!), one of the sponsors of the other forum for shiny new defenders, have a clearout of the Trucklite LED lights going on, for £250 shipped to the UK. The same units sell for £450ish normally... These are E marked, RHD units with warranty etc http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic37882.html Hope this is of use

Just found the guide: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601 One of the pics shows the floor panel removed, but doesn't look like it allows you to get to much... If I can get away without it that'd be much better!!

Thanks for the answers - makes life easier... I was looking at some of the guides online, didn't spot the one on here!

Hi, I've looked in the various guides for dropping the transfer box on a 110, and most of them recommend removing the drivers floor panel. Is it possible to remove it without touching the floor? I've got LPG tanks secured to the floor panel and an x-eng pendal lock so would rather avoid it if possible!! Any advice / pointers / suggestions based on past experience much appreciated! Thanks Jon

I think Diesel specific oil has more detergent in it as Diesel's are dirtier than petrols... Tough call on whether to swap it or not - it probably won't do any harm as oil technology and the detergents within have progressed a lot in the 20 odd years since the 19J was designed, but I'm not really an expert in such matters!

Mine's straight off the back of the ignition switch...

Thanks - much appreciated! If the swap over point was around '87 when they changed to the defender branding I guess mine will be 4mm

Hi, My '92 110 CSW has had fixed side windows fitted - looking at the codes on the glass it appears to have been factory fitted as they match with the other windows... The seals are getting a bit tatty - I've had a quick look at replacements but I'm not sure which ones are right... Looking around turns up: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/17466/2919/304235-HARD-TOP-FIXED-WINDOW-RUBBER-SEAL.html Which lists for early defenders, this: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/471/2919/302177-WEATHER-STRIP-FIXED-WINDOW.html Which is in 1M lengths.. Reading around it's suggested that the seals are the same as for the rear safari windows - is it possible to buy this in long lengths so I can cut it down to fit? Thanks! Jon

You can buy the anti-squeal shims separately.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-ANTI-SQUEAL-SELF-ADHESIVE-BRAKE-PAD-SHIMS-SET-OF-4-LARGE-FITS-ANY-CAR-/291458291665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43dc4497d1 I put similar on my Mazda which has race pads fitted (no backing and stupidly noisy compound!) - shut them up totally...

Is the physical timing right - if you disconnect the MJ and put a timing light on is it at actually firing at 10 BTDC?

When it went it was hitting a pothole or similar, nothing that would have come close to fully compressing the suspension.. I'm pretty sure it's just a poorly made turret!

Shocks look reasonably new - Delphi DeCarbon +2's with springs to match.. It doesn't appear to have seized or similar and punched the top out of the mount - it drooped OK when I jacked the chassis up far enough to dislocate the spring to check that wasn't the cause of the rattle...

Depending on which price is accurate (£47 on their non-functional webshop or £52 on ebay) it may be a tenner more, but it sounds like it'd be worth the extra - thanks..

Hi, My 110 developed a nasty clonking noise when going over bumps, with the nice weather I managed to get a chance to have a look at what was causing it - I was expecting possibly a loose shock top nut, a knackered shock bush, or at worst a broken spring, but this is what I found: The turret has cracked all the way round the welds at the top (doesn't look like the welds have penetrated well), and it looks like the metal has cracked in several places as well.. I'm unsure of what brand they are, they aren't galved but look too new to be original... I've had the Britpart galved ones before and they've always needed some fettling to make them fit - but as they are £42 + postage, and the Gwyn Lewis HD ones are only £7 more, are they worth the few quid extra? Thanks Jon

My old petrol 88" was a hoot off road - pretty standard apart from 235 85 mud tyres and some parabolics.. It would go pretty much anywhere round our local pay and play sites, including stuff that challenged some of the more modern machines that were there.. Successfully navigating a very muddy run and watching the SWB lifted trailer queen shogun get stuck made my day As said, bits were cheap, mechanically apart from a few teething problems it was pretty reliable and it was tatty to start with so I didn't mind some of the scratches I put on it (I didn't take my old 90 there as I didn't want to wreck it!) I'd have another 88" as a fun runabout in an instant!

How do the cross contacts compare noise and economy wise compared to BFG KM2s? Got 255 85 KM2's on the 110 at the moment and and motorway speed they hum a lot (even compared to the rest of the noises a 110 at 70 makes!!)

Similar was asked the other day... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=94028

Funny you should say that: http://www.engadget.com/2015/04/30/department-of-energy-3d-prints-an-all-electric-shelba-cobra/