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Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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you could go to the heritage centre in Gaydon, which is an indoor activity with lots of land rovers. The indoor bit is important, because right now it looks like we are in the middle of a Monsoon!
Bicester village is where all the rich visitors go, and requires a Porsche or new Range Rover to enter. Not a bad call, but it depends on what you drive.
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Interesting project, keep the updates coming. I'd say these would be a good fit under the 110, as the extended wheel base would make it more stable on hills. But either would work obviously.
Are you fitting the Koenig PTO winch?
Daan
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That would be a shame, I used to subscribe back in the day, before the internet became big. I still occasionally buy the mag, but as mentioned, you can only tell the same thing so often. That said, from the Landy mags that are left, I'd say LRO is probably the best, so that is a bit of a surprise.
I must say, the collaboration with Brit part did annoy me, as well as the Chelsea tractor wholesalers like twisted and Nene overland. But that is where the money is I suppose.
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38mm thick ones I have always used, now 2 are used in the garden as walking path across our vegetable patch.
Not sure I get the bit of not using lockers when the ground is soft. But then, I am not able to switch off my lockers.
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Can you sandwich a plate between the transfer case and the O/D with a hole as small as the shaft? This to achieve a higher oil level.
I normally fill my PTO to the required height, however, after the first steep hill, the PTO fills up completely with oil to the top. I usually have to refill the transfer box after this.
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Controls look a bit home made:
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The bell house on the engine needs swapping as well, and I am not sure if a 200 has the correct holes for the 300 crank seal.
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about 30.000 from new. Not necessarily talking about my engine, but general failures at events.
Daan
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Problem is that the moment you weld, the aluminum turns to cheese. So the material next to the weld is now a weak point. and the head does see big pressures above the combustion chambers, as well as local temperatures reaching 700 degrees. Both together is a good way to show weaknesses.
So if you have the choice, avoiding welding would be preferable. Of course, the classic car crowd has been successfully welding heads and blocks for years because if there is nothing else available you have no choice.
I don't see the big problem, an ebay search reveals at least 10 200 heads, and 2 pages of 300 heads. If a 300 head fits a 200, there is even less of a problem. I have yet to see much evidence of the 300 being a bad engine myself (just don't bash the sump to a rock like I did once!). I much prefer the 300 for reasons of supply and cost of parts.
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flipping the casing would make your axle spring under again. which is what you want from what I gather? The swivels are 6 bolt so could swap between left and right and work with the housing upside down, but not sure about the castor angle.
You would need to flip the diff to maintain the correct rotation. (I presume the dodge propshaft rotates the correct way?). The bolt pattern is not symmetrical, so you would need to re-drill the holes for the diff. That would leave the drain plug to move to the bottom:
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For friction coeficient, PTFE (teflon) is best. Ideally teflon to teflon, so you would need 2 layers. other wise nylon will be ok I'd say. Are these the 101 springs? Not sure if they have the joggle at the end like aftermarket ones do. This means they only touch at the bushing ends,
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Great camper and pictures; keep it coming!
Daan
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Just check the rules:
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0nly in recent years cars were pinged on wheels sticking out and many cars had legality spikes fitted as an afterthought by the manufacturer, like this car, above the mudflaps:
With this in mind, you have to wonder how this is legal:
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If it were me, I would fit a 4-pin diff at the front (possibly P38 center, if that fits) and 23/24 spline Ashcroft shafts at the front, and the jack mcnamara manual diff lock kit (the one where you push the shaft in on the drive member) for the rear axle if you can find it. This keeps the parts mainly standard and removes the weak 2 pin front diff center.
You already have the early 23/24 spline 2522 CVs, judging from your drive members, so these are the strongest standard CV's. I doubt you break anything in this setup, perhaps a CV if you try very hard, but this is easy to swap in the field.
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Does britpart sell grenadier parts?
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I'd say it is beneficial in comp safari, or rallying, where a locked diff would make the car understeer and in an open diff you start spinning wheels earlier. A lot of development on rally cars centers around the centre diff for this reason.
For what we are doing, it is usually diff lock on when it gets serious which also removes the weakness problem from what I understand.
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Surprised that came from holland.
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It very much depends on where the engine is in relation to the front axle; The picture Fridge shows has the engine backward a long way. In an SWB with an LT77 you probably have to move it forward and that moves it closer to the diff, so the offset is needed to miss it at full compression of the axle. There is also the exhaust to consider on both sides and the oil filter location, steering and bulkhead mods that determine the best place. The starter handle working is nice to have but if you have the aforementioned problems considered, this is probably secundary; you could always modify the cross member and bumper to keep this facility.
Lots to consider and lots of work...
Daab
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It is all the way down to the bearing from memory.
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As used in F1 for several years. the main advantage is that instead of opening the wastegate, you can use the excess power generated to charge the hybrid battery.
Still, a shame they haven't been able to make a VNT turbo work on a petrol engine reliably. That would probably be a better solution.
Daan
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I have this in mine, makes a big difference:
Daan
World War Willys Jeep - from 1990 - Body mounted.
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Here we are again, with an update; it took a while, but I spent a lot of time to get to this point:
With the engine mounted, there are still a few things to sort out to make this engine work in the jeep. There are some serious clashing problems with the LH chassis rail to the oil filter, the alternator, the PAS pump, and the viscous fan. Neither of these is easily solvable, they are proper head-on train crash stuff.
The Oil filter problem was solved by changing the filter for a shorter one, of a Vauxhall Omega V6; it is about half the length of the VW one, at the expense of a non-return valve and an overflow valve. It now clears the chassis rail with some distance:
And this is where the simple solutions ended: the other problems had to be solved by moving parts to other places. The alternator had to move to the RH side of the engine, in the space for the AC pump, and the PAS pump moved upwards to clear the chassis rail, and essentially in the position where it sits in the Golf. A bracket was made up soon enough for the PAS pump:
On the RH side, a bracket was made up to hold the alternator, and I searched for ways to move the viscous fan as well. I much prefer the viscous fan over an electric fan for an off-road vehicle. All this then needs some form of tensioner as well, since the original one now does not work in its position where it is. I Essentially had to re-designing the accessory drive, and this is where it went very quickly from ‘how hard can it be’ to the one problem that kept me awake at night. There is only one place where the tensioner can be, which is next to the crank pulley at the un-tensioned part of the belt. In this position, it also increases the belt wrap around the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. Several automotive tensioners were tried, but none of them looked like I could get to work. The clock springs in these are usually massive, and there just isn’t the space required. Then I looked at linear spring versions. The Mondeo MK3 diesel tensioner is the one I went with. The dimensions of the arm aren’t quite right, but I used the spring, the pulley, and the bearings of this and fabricated my own version of the tensioner arm:
There were quite a few turned parts required for all the changes in the accessory drive, I got these done to my drawings by Darren at Bushes2U.com. His work was spot on, well-recommended:
The alternator, tensioner, and viscous fan bearing are all incorporated in this fabricated bracket:
All assembled it looks like this:
Mounted to the engine:
On the engine, anticlockwise from the crank pulley, there is the water pump pulley, an idler pulley (this was the location of the viscous fan), another idler pulley (The old tensioner, changed to a smooth pulley), PAS pump, and viscous fan shaft. The viscous fan used to be driven by the smooth side of the belt, but in this position, it gets driven by the ribbed side of the belt. This meant 2 things; the pulley needs changing for a ribbed pulley, and the rotation is now the opposite way. I solved the ribbed pulley problem by using a Ford Fiesta ribbed pulley, welded to the old pulley and I swapped the fan for a version of the VW Passat with a petrol engine. This fan bolts on the diesel viscous coupling.
Last but not least, a longer Fan belt completed the job.
Thanks for reading, things are moving, but slowly!
Daan