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Posts posted by Daan
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I would throw these in the bin for a few reasons. I am less worried about the threaded bolt, but more about the nut that holds them onto the hub. This works directly onto aluminium which has a chance of deforming. Where most alloy wheels have a steel insert to combat wear or at least a different shape nut, these clearly don't. If they were steel, that would be acceptable, in aluminium, I think it is not. With the wheel mounted, there is no way of checking the nuts, so if they works loose, your wheel will eventually fall off with the spacer.
Sorry to be negative about this, but I would not run these for this reason.
My opinion.
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I really like the effort that was put into the Grenadier, It is really a continuation of the rugged off roaders from the good old days. Ineos should be applauded for doing this.
It is easy to criticise, but the task in hand is not easy in today's legislation. I would love to see the SWB arriving on the scene as well, and it is going to be really good once people start modding them with big tyres, winches etc.
I would have one over the new defender, no contest.
Daan
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I envy you! I got 1 hour in this week so far.
Daan
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3 hours ago, Naks said:
Damn, if I wasn't put of a TDV6 yet, this video certainly did.
Daan
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On face book:
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I would cut the wheel arches and drop it as low as possible; not just for aero reasons, but also stability plus how often do you see a caravan blown over due to side winds?
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35 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said:
True, but I don't think we've seen him in ages
There is a reason for this:
36 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said:wind up
It is of our own making.
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Is there mileage in starting with a caravan as a donor? Not just for the frame, but things like a fridge, kitchen, windows and a door etc.
Like this one:
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Showing these pictures on this forum is like getting drunk with a bunch of alcoholics; it is normal for them.
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I would go with a wide axle sankey for the parts and make a new frame myself.
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I'd say the only part from 1972 is the V5 and maybe the door tops.
Daan
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Did your wife knew how you lived before you got married? I have a double garage with an upstairs loft, my project cars and associated junk are all there. None of my projects live outside, out of fear we tone down the neighbourhood (I couldn't care less about this myself by the way). Anyway, you need garage space for 14 cars if you want them all out of sight. I am surprised no one has suggested to scale down yet, but then this is a petro/diesel head forum after all.
Daan
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Looking totally acceptable!
Daan
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Bill van snorkel on here had 2 long shafts shortened and cut to 24 splines on the large tapered section. One would fit to the short side, for the other side he made a 24 spline extension sleeve. But the engineering involved in that is probably not dissimilar to a CV and shaft conversion. Or a welded solution maybe?
The D&D kit I would dismiss because you cannot use land rover wheels anymore. There is always mike browns conversion that uses defender outer swivels and shortened shafts.
Daan
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I thought this was dead and buried....
Bring it on!
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Don't put any oil on the running surface-they are meant to run in dry. I also had one popping out under oil pressure so make sure they are seated well.
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Just now, Ed Poore said:
The moment you take them out you'll break one though.
That' s why I keep taking them.
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As far as I am concerned, it is always about going forward, so rear diff always in, the front when necessary, and when you get stuck continue on the front winch.
This is one of the reasons why I favour the Detroit diffs, they always work and when it is twisty you are better of compared to a front selectable locker that would completely stop your ability to steer.
Rear winch is of very little use in trophy, only if it is a down hill that would be other wise suicidal without.
Also, the CV's you can never really trust on a defender with lockers. But the detroit true trac front diff never goes completely solid, and this means your CV's live. I am still on the original (standard used) 2522 CV's that I fitted in 2003.
I pull them occasionally to check for cracks in the bell, but they are still in mint condition. I have been lugging spare CV's to every event for nothing. basically.
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You could fit those tyres on your modular rims and you still have the wider track with narrower tyres. Land rover wheels look much better though!
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I'd say the most cost effective is to use the 2522 CVs, ashcroft 23/24 spline shafts, and build this up with lockers. I was going to fly the flag for Detroit diffs, as this is very much what I prefer, as it is so simple to fit and use. They also used to be half the price from an ARB diff. The ARB diffs have the problem of the air supply being a bit delicate with the rotating piston, and the amount of people that I came across where they stopped working made me choose against them.
Things are a bit different now, the ash locker has a static piston which does not have the reliability problem while being cheaper than a detroit locker, so that is almost a pointless argument.
What I would suggest is look at ebay and the like for a complete set of axles with the ashcroft setup. Most competitors now move away from Land rover axles in favour of Nissan Patrol axles, so surely some land rover axles will turn up at the right price.
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The 300 version is far bigger and more effective:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304769911371?hash=item46f5b3ca4b:g:REkAAOSwGMNjwdD6
I am pretty sure my dad fitted the same to his 200 disco.
It might clash with the turbo on a defender 200 though as this is mounted higher.
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20 hours ago, Cchase said:
Good afternoon,
At risk of overthinking a problem, I have seen/rad about people drilling into the upper swivel assembly (and then at 90`) and adding a grease nipple, to enable lubing of the Railko bushing.
Is this common?
Secondly, If the spinning of the U-joint is supposed to splash oil into the hole on the bushing to provide lube, then why not slightly enlarge the hole in the bottom of the bushing and thrust washer?
Obviously not so big a hole so as to weaken the bushing, but maybe to 1/4" or so.
Waiting for parts allows the mind to wander...
Thanks.
I used to do this on my series; made a big difference on the steering. Problem with splash lubrication it has to go against gravity, so not great. I closed the hole with a metal disk and drilled the grease feed hole through, so the grease goes in the bottom face and comes out on top; so it is properly covered in grease.
I also had freewheel hubs, so splash lubrication was not happening.
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A lot is in the in the mounts and injection. For a 200, I would replace the engine mounts for Glencoyne ones. They are meant for series conversions, but should fit any standard 200 TDI application. the 300 has different mounts, but they are much better, and I think part of the reason the 300 is quieter.
Then injection, I think investing in a timing tool that clocks the pump allows you to set it up the way you want. I reckon the timing and fuel delivery is what makes the difference between different engines, as mentioned they vary quite a bit.
And try to vary the timing a bit even if outside factory specs, just to see what it does.
I think a TDI is by far the best suited engine land rover made for working vehicles. simple to fix, plenty of low down torque good parts availability (300 mainly) and cheap to run by comparison.
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The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread
in International Forum
Posted
This has doubled in price, 1 day in. Will be watching this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285141803660?hash=item4263c6a28c:g:rPMAAOSwP3Rj2l71&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoL3YsPu4Xx7kEX3pDiIFs3CMkFirg%2BIZXK%2FvwamvcgpfI1ZU5lCIV9Na%2FCdECfdAyXKf0K7QVIzSlgMvnD59xtZQ7WetNLdx30uFLMntFsb9Iu5utr9byFUWIqhBnnOiJgv7PkXwEuHOPGDl8kiHAcXNuTubKspgXKieA%2F3lFkRCpRkWGxCGcLrbLNqAjQIRS%2BjFSV4j4Ve1YZQimPgBS10%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-zT1JvIYQ