Daan
-
Posts
4,950 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Daan
-
-
This tells you more: https://gdlauto.com.au/range-rover-evoke-turbo-problems/
What often happens with VNT turbos is that the vanes get stuck due to build up of diesel soot. A simple strip down and clean is all it needs to solve this.
Of course, a land rover dealer is not in business to solve your problem as cheaply as possible, so if your car is out of warranty, I would suggest going to an independent local garage who you trust, or get the spanners out yourself.
A new electronic actuator costs this:
Or a turbo:
Expect probably the same for fitting.
Daan
-
Looks like you are making waffles...
-
1
-
-
I cannot comment on their differences, their core size is identical to the mm, so I doubt there is much in it. I don't know anyone who used an airtec intercooler, but know many people who used an allisport one, so that in itself is a recommendation.
Allisport is £55 cheaper, which helps I suppose.
Bear in mind that a full width intercooler reduces the cooling capacity of the existing intercooler arrangement, important if you go somewhere hot, allisport does sell an upgraded radiator for this as well.
Daan
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Not necessarily good, one with a knackered bottom end would work.
Mike
I had a completely finished 2.25 which I rebuild using the 2.5 block and crank basically. It Just meant my land rover would be off the road shorter, as I could get the block done first, then pull the 2.25 apart and mount the parts to this 2.5 block. I do remember the 2.5 petrol pistons had a limited amount of over sizes available, so check this before you get the block bored, if this is the plan.
If you decide to go ahead with this build, I can give you all the details for this even in Nederlands, but it was about 26 years ago, and my memory is not getting any better!
Daan
-
1
-
-
This thread is worthless without pics!
-
Yes, I build one myself, combining a 2.5 TD with a 2.25 3 bearing petrol. I used new 2.5 petrol pistons, that fit to the 2.25 conrods. The head fits, but I fitted 2.5 petrol valves which I think are larger, with unleaded valve seats pressed into the head, after having them counterbored. I also had the head skimmed by quite a bit, the total compression ratio was 9:1. The 2.25 camshaft drive chain works, you just need to pull a core plug out of the oil gallery so the tensioner has oil pressure.
I fitted a 2.5 inlet manifold with a weber 2 stage carburettor, and was running it on LPG. the distributor and fuel pump of the 2.25 fitted.
Went very well.
Daan
-
3
-
-
£120 is not a lot for a front wing, a door and rear wing. Do they have a right hand side as well?
-
On 10/5/2022 at 3:07 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
I drove the 109 to Russia & back on the Petlas that came with my axles.
On the way back we pulled into a petrol station and @dirtydiesel jumped out of his 300TDi 2-door and cursed me - he'd spend the last 25 miles searching for the awful droning noise apparently coming from his truck, he'd been shifting gears, dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, and as I rolled to a stop in the petrol station behind him the droning noise finally stopped
They were better than the XZL's, mind.
How would they compare with simex tyres, noise, grip and wear?
9 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:This one has definitely been stretched though...
One for Mike!
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
I think it's being mentioned in relation to driving a hydraulic pump rather than the winch directly.
Mike
Driving a hydraulic pump to drive the winch I also regard as driving the winch directly. Only with an electric winch you don't drive it directly.
-
I don't think you can rely on a rubber belt to drive a winch directly; an Electric winch is ok, as you are using the battery's as an energy buffer so you don't just rely on the V-belt at the very moment you are winching. But whenever I am submerged in water, my PAS does not function, giving me a squealing noise when I try to turn. So relying on the V-belt to transfer a torque to turn a hydraulic winch seems a non starter to me. But it depends on the torque levels required obviously, and how deep do you need it to go and still work.
Daan
-
Hi, I think what you are after is called an olive:
Groeten,
Daan
-
Is that not oil pressure? Will need to have a look on mine. Or fuel solenoid?
-
The 19J block is a great basis to build a 2.5 petrol engine, using a 2.25 head. I ran this for many years on a 9:1 ratio, good engines.
Daan
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 10/10/2022 at 6:34 PM, richp110 said:
It's amazing how often this forum has a clear well explained answer to conundrum! Thanks all
LR4x4 is made by its members knowledge.
Thanks for the vote of confidence!
Daan
-
2 hours ago, mart010 said:
hi. Thanks for the replies! Ok, so maybe I'll switch the hoses as it's supposed to be. For now I'm happy with the Setup. Good to hear it's possible. It was my fault I attached the hoses the wrong way round. I will post Some more Build pictures. How to do that? Make a new post or just follow up on this one? It's an ex military Dutch series 3, LHD. I'm installing a 200tdi. Just now I'm working on the heating, brakes, clutch and electrics in the motor Bay. While doing all that I stripped the bulkhead and started repairing and preserving that part. There was rust that I cut out and replaced. That's sort of done now and put in RX10. only need a new metal part of the bulkhead where the wires run trough. you know, that metal 'tunnel'. Too much rust.
Now back to the heating.
Hi Mart, if you make a new post and tell a bit more about the vehicle, what it looked like before, during and after the build or what ever you are doing with it, that would be great. Pictures looking good already!
We are a close nit community who love land rovers and other 4x4 vehicles, and there is a lot of experience and knowledge around here. We thrive on technical innovation and home grown projects.
People from all over the world make this forum, and several Dutch people have joined as well, including myself!
Groeten, Daan
-
Hi Mart, welcome to the fold.
1. To answer your question: I cannot see a reason why you cannot change the direction of airflow through the intercooler.
2. We want a build thread of your car.
Groeten, Daan
-
2
-
-
28 minutes ago, cackshifter said:
Following this with some interest, all good stuff. A couple of points, @simonr I think suggested it would only need about 3 hp, but a poly vee belt should be able to transmit that on reasonable sized pulleys- I suspect it'll be rather more. I would be careful esp after @Ed Poore's experiences with snapped cranks; the power you can take from the nose may be quite limited (years back at Leyland there were problems for concrete mixers which had a nose driven hydraulic pump to drive the mixer) and the mass of the extra gubbins on the nose of the crank may not be good.
The engine moves a surprising amount on its mounts, so I wondered if a pump could be mounted on brackets maybe cantilevered from the sump, then it could all move with the engine, and you could drive it through some short coupling with rubber isolation from the crank so the pulley could do its job. There are small couplings like a dog clutch to handle minor misalignments. Presumably you would bolt whatever coupling to the pulley centre with some kind of spacer over the crank bolt head to the 4 M8 holes, and it would become part of the crank mass unless decoupled.
I think you need to look more at 50hp, at a guess. If you manage to stall a 300 tdi, that takes some doing.
Some form of vibration damper between the engine and pump would certainly be good. Also, the keyway in the front pouly is going to take all the load, so make sure that is in a good state, they have a habit of wearing out on 300s. Check what v8s are like on this @FridgeFreezer.
-
-
3 hours ago, B reg 90 said:
WRT worm drives being one way or self braking.
They can be but it depends on the gear ratio and if they are stationary or turning.Stationary - the lower the gear ratio the more likely it will spin if loaded in reverse (load on winch line, no drive to winch). This doesn’t happen on a H14 (48:1 ratio), but might on Daan’s 9:1 winch
Under load - a worm gear is very unusual in that it has a sliding motion between the gears. All other gears have a rotating motion. The sliding means that when stationary the oil ‘squeezes’ out and you get high friction between the metal surfaces. Start turning the gear set ( with a reverse load, I.e hanging you 4x4 off the winch), then oil gets between the gears as they start turning, friction goes down and the gears will transfer load in reverse.
I have done the gear calc for an H14 - they are only self braking in reverse under light reverse load. They will not self brake under heavy load.hope this is of interest
adrian
Yes, I can back drive the winch by hand, so I f try to rotate the drum, the shaft spins. To make it legal for international comps, there is a disc brake on the winch shaft, which is on a one way sprag clutch; So the caliper is always on, but it only works when the winch spools out. However, in reality, I hardly ever used this.
The self brake problem is over rated, I think. On the last event I did in Wales I had this conversation the evening before it started, and there was a punch on top of a vertical hill. The consensus was that it you cannot do it with your winch and everyone came over when I attempted it. I did the usual; winch up with the wheels assisting to get me up. At the top, when I was near the punch, press the clutch and the brake pedal. It stopped. What people don't seem to grasp is that if you apply the footbrake when drive assisting, there is connection between the winch and the wheels. So even if the wheels would not be able to hold the car, the winch is now also braked via the prop shaft being held by the rest of the drivetrain.
So we took the punch, selected reverse, put the transfer box in neutral, and did a controlled decent on the winch via engine braking. No drama.
I always use wheel assist when self recovery winching; with the 9:1 ratio, the speed of the wheels is around a factor 6x the speed of the winch. Speeding up the winch to wheel speed would effectively mean winchng in 5th gear which would give me very little control. Right now, it is 1st gear for controlled, heavy pulls, and second gear for fast light winchng.
As Toenden pointed out, you would use wheel assist at tickover, 1st low, and the engine cannot even deliver the power to the winch to do this.
To me, the winch assist problem does not exist; even in in Russia in the swamps, where it was predicted the wheel assist would not work due to too much wheel spin, i never had a problem with it. Once you break through the top cover of the swamp, you are unlikely to get it back on top.
I think for an 8 day winch event with very big pulls, it eventually comes down to reliability of the winch.
In Croatia, on the last day there were 8 cars at the start line (from 32 starters). Majority of cars had retired due to failed gearboxes (automatic) and burn out winches. Even hydraulic winches I have seen failing in this kind of event. The one I know of to get hydraulics winches to work for a long prolonged time is Jez.
So to me, what I have works, and I have no intention of changing it.
Daan
-
4
-
-
56 minutes ago, toenden said:
Here! The shaft isn't attached, but I think you get the picture. Please let me know if touch need a picture of It attached.
/mads
I hadn't realized you grafted a koenig crank driven winch onto a defender! like it a lot. is this a completely mechanical setup or is there hydraulics involved?
The sizing of the shaft looks about right too. If you manage too stall a 300 tdi with the winch, that gives an indication of the torques we talk about. A V8 will be stalling much easier at low revs, so there needs to be plenty of beef in the drive train.
Daan
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Now for sale on face book:
-
6
-
14 minutes ago, toenden said:
I don't know how much you need, but I have "switched off" my engine with a crank driven winch more than once. First time it was only idling, but then I offcourse tried with some throtle 😇 -and it did it again... THEN we found another way of doing things 🤣
The engine is a 300 Tdi, not the biggest but some power it needs to able to tackle.
My prop is about 12 cm and it runs just fine (so far)/no ill effects.
/mads
Pictures?
-
No reverse though. I had a plan worked out to do it using epicyclic gears; 2 gear sets out of an automatic gearbox; one brake band on the first epicyclic to work winch in, the other brake band on the second epicyclic to winch out. 2 levers in the cab to work either brake, one lever for winch in, one for winch out.
But as with most of my ideas it is one that did not make it to reality, just to much work to spend the time on. I have about a hundred ideas before I have one that I think is worth taking to reality.
Good to hear you are ditching the hydraulics though! keep it simple is the future.
Daan
-
2
-
-
3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I mean, £100 for a 13hp reversing box it's tempting to have a go:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155041278215
I'd say it is a bit mickey mouse for what you are trying to do, but it is not a bad idea. Koenig produced a crank driven winch that was like this:
-
3
-
Inspired by a chinook
in International Forum
Posted
Inspired by a chinook, right?: the only similarity I can see is that both have 4 wheels.