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Daan

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Posts posted by Daan

  1. Speaking of lights, at some stage during the series 3 production, Land rover decided to lower 1 light to cross member height and swap the lights as well.

    From this 

    image.png.5f6e41b1e82867a2329d3efb5566aa2c.png

    To this:

    image.png.8433f07f11db6c408395f447866abc99.png

    Anyone knows why this was done? 

    It then was continued like this on the 90/110.  I much prefer them higher up as when it gets muddy, the chances of them being not visible or damaged is much higher.

    I also prefer the older look myself

  2. Sorry to hear about your ongoing troubles, but glad there is a plan.

    I am sure you know the old trick to get the old spigot bush out, using grease and a socket, however that did not work for me last time as I could not seal the grease. Then I googled the problem; The solution is bread, and that worked.

    Here:

    Daan

    • Like 2
  3. 2 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:

    Thanks guys, I do indeed have and intend to keep the earlier stronger CVs and hubs, so it'll just be a matter of presenting Mr. Ashcroft with one of my kidneys for some HD half shafts and drive members. Interesting and reassuring that a standard 24 spline diff should be up to the task.

    My thanks to you gentlemen

    Mo

    No worry's, do we get to see the M57 install?

  4. Interesting that the LRO spanner guy got the top job at LRM!

    Anyway, back to the Munro, it runs disco 2 axles by the looks of it, I wonder how they get hold of them, if they want to build 5000 per year? I cannot see Land rover assisting them in bulding a competitor of sorts, especially after Ineos was pretty much shown the door asking for defender rights.

    Before it comes to the 5K per annum, I'd say a nose job is in order. Just make it looks like Mikes ibex, and it will be fine!

    Daan

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  5. 2 hours ago, Anderzander said:

    Excellent news !! 

    How’s clearance at the front of the engine in its new position ? 
     

    I bet it will be a little rocket with that 1.9 in there. 

    Loads of space in that area, but less in others...

    The Passat B5 with this engine does 122MPH according to the specs, and is 100 kg heavier compared to the Jeep.

    I am planning on fitting a block of wood under the throttle!

    • Haha 1
  6. Hi, here we are again with a (long overdue) update. Summer was mainly spent entertaining my family and seemingly came and went in a flash. So here we are, 9 months and 2 prime ministers later, I have something new to show; I decided to have a clear out of my garage by mounting parts to the chassis, starting with the largest lump, engine and gearbox. Now I have the body, I could take measurements to check for any potential clashes with the VW TDI. It shows that the Mahindra is different in a few areas to the Willys body I have. The gearbox is mounted further backwards compared to the Willys, and is also longer, it being a 4 speed. As a result, the engine rocker cover flange of the VW has no clearance to the bulkhead, and the gear stick does not line up with the hole in the tunnel. More interesting things are happening once I tried to fit the prop shafts; They are too short. The rear by about 5mm, which is the result of the parabolic springs drooping much further due to them being quite soft. (This is all done with the axles hanging of the springs). The front prop was more worrying, as it somehow was too short by about 1 inch. After some measuring, it appears the Dana 30 diff I use is 1” shorter than the Dana 27 it replaced.

    So, a few problems to think about (plus many more, but for another time). After some head scratching, I decided best solution is to move the engine and box forward by about 30mm solving all these problems. It will need a longer rear prop, which is a good thing, as the Mahindra one is comically short, resulting in unhealthy U/J angles at full droop. The U/J’s are Identical to Defender ones, so it should be easy adapt a defender prop.

    With the location decided on, I could start fabricating engine mounts. I am using the original Hydraulic mounts that came with the engine (It is a 1.9 TDI 110 out of a Passat B5, engine code AFN, not the 90 HP version I thought previously). I am mimicking the original setup of the Passat, apart from the Engine lying on its side in the Passat by about 30 degrees, where I fit it in the upright position in the Jeep. The included angle of the AV mounts is about 45 degrees in the Passat, which I maintained in my mount arrangement. The chassis brackets are made out of 100 x 100 x 5 mm box section, like this:

    large.IMG_9066.JPG.deac348739e67d5ec14ba7b9aa691037.JPG

     

    The engine brackets were made out of 5mm plate, like this:

     large.IMG_9127.JPG.7ecf2a3119fd6bbefa0c50cb129dcaab.JPG

    All mounted, it looks like this, RH side:

     large.IMG_9139.JPG.79e378f9c809ad4d361a80130f90a95c.JPG

    LH side:

     large.IMG_9147.JPG.e36d9756f467c7e21ea7379f6f8c7985.JPG

    Engine looks at home in the chassis:

     large.IMG_9137.JPG.d5ad2f976f56b6e490087327f64572ff.JPG

    Thanks for reading!

    Daan

    • Like 3
  7. 2 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    My 18v dewalt one uses a hey key, brilliant idea. As for the C spanner/pin spanner types... as long as a pin fits in the hole, it will work on any one. Just use it with one pin in the hole and the other on the outer edge of the nut.

    You barbaric engineer; just use large pliers, like me!

    That hex key nut looks like it would be in the way if You grind something large.

    Daan

  8. 13 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

    Are there any issues I need to be aware of with fitting a full length intercooler ?

    Regards Stephen

    The main issue is that your radiator now is less effective, so a larger one would be better. Allisport does one, or I think people have used a TD radiator, as it is larger.

    Great progress btw, I am very jealous of your level progress.

    Daan

    • Thanks 1
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