Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Sorry to hear this, Keep us updated on your health.
Daan
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Sorry Mike, it was meant as a joke.
Daan
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4 hours ago, markyboy said:
Thanks, Daan, you 'went' where I didn't dare 🙊 🤣
We promote the correct use of the English language on LR4x4.
Interesting it has to come from a Dutch man, who to all intents and purposes, is still learning!
Mike, I am glad to hear your car is working again.
Daan
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No more chassis rust!
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Sorry to hear. Many guides for the technical archive where his I remember.
Daan
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All far too complicated; getting power from the engine to the winch through a hydraulic pump, motor and tank, or via alternator, battery's and motors all add weight and complexity.
All you need is a PtO on your transfer box and a shaft.
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Steelies rule!
Daan
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Steering and suspension from all the cars you mention here are pretty ropy to say the least. Badly layed out steering systems (tractor style on a series landy, CJ5 and toyota) and leaf springs just are not very good ways to create a road going vehicle.
Luckily, you can upgrade the landrover series quite easily; parabolic leaf springs are a bolt on mod and the Rangerover P38 PAS conversion works well.
Daan
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1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:
Not really. Very few parts are unavailable and where they are, there is a work round (like using 300 nozzles in 200 injectors). Most wearing parts are rebuildable, with rebuild kits available (like Vacuum pumps or oil pumps, although the latter should last a million plus miles). The engine itself is very, very simple and there are plenty of good machine shops willing to do work on them, becuase it's easy money. Most cracks in heads can now be chemically sealed or welded and the 200 was never as prone to them as the 300. The 200 is simply a classic engine, with classic support
I personally prefer a 300 for reasons of availability and price of parts. And easy conversion.
Not aware of the head being more prone to problems?
Heads are available for a 300 for surprisingly little money:
China head:
Cylinder Head+Valves ERR5027 for Land Rover Defender 2.5L 300tdi Discovery NEW | eBay
London Head:
LAND ROVER DEFENDER 300TDI CYLINDER HEAD BUILT UP NEW - LDF500180COM | eBay
I am not 100%, but I think you can fit a 300 head on a 200?
Daan
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On 9/24/2022 at 7:55 PM, miketomcat said:
I love the fact you have to cut up a rare ww2 jeep to fit this body on. Perhaps one for @Daan.
Mike
Would work ok with a Mahindra chassis. You can actually buy new chassis frames (around £1500), but axles you need to find somewhere else. Trouble is, the price of anything that has been in WW2 is sky-high, and even Hotchkiss etc, are not cheap these days.
The last SWB mahindra I saw on ebay went for £5k, and that was a project.
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3 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Living miles from the workshop and then having a family didn’t help either
If you have kids you need the project at home so you can grab an hour or so when the kids are asleep. That's all I do these days.
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13 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Just read the Will Warne thread, what a crying shame it never got completed, some fantastic work there and certainly not always glacial.
Rest assured mine will be completed regards Stephen
I think Will was too ambitious with his build, wanting 100% on every aspect, whereas if he'd gone for 90% percent you can achieve it in about half the time and effort.
If he'd settled for a bit less perfection, it would have finished for sure.
Many builds end like this unfortunately.
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2 hours ago, muddy said:
Just my 2p as an opinion to stop this turning too ‘WillWarne’ like
Not sure Stephen knows who Will Warne actually is.
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X-springs:
X Springs for Land Rover Defender 90, Disco 1 & RR Classic (Pair) (foundry4x4.co.uk)
But I'd say try to achieve max articulation using standard springs first and see if it hits anywhere.
How much travel are your shocks?
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As your front is now freely moving, the suspension travel can be fully balanced. red whites give you about 12" of suspension movement before going coil bound.
Problem with dislocation, is there is no vehicle weight to push the wheel to the ground, so in terms of traction, you have not got much.
The mogs a re a bit heavier than most, but it is still better to have vehicle weight resting on your wheel for as long as possible.
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Red-white would give you 70mm more droop without dislocation, and full bump. I think 133lb is a bit soft with a TDI in the front and Nuke spec construction.
I have OME2751 at the front (225lb) and red white at the rear (170 lb). Works, and I'd say the spring weight is quite similar.
Daan
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12 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
That bible would have been handy before I bought springs ..lol
Springs are 1" lower than standard, front are 15mm diameter the rears are 16mm, no colour coding on them regards Stephen
I reckon it would have been..., but it has been referred to on here before!
What is the free length of your springs?
Daan
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Well, since we advised you to remove the bump stops to set up max bump, the springs definitely compress to the max if you try hard enough.
I would forget about dislocation and just use the max length of your spring on droop and no spring on compression. What spring rate are your springs do you know?
Generally, with portals you don't run a lift, as the portals themselves do this for you.
I would start with red white springs, as they are quite long but not high poundage.
Boingy bible here:
land rover spring specifications (red90.ca)
Daan
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Are you not taking the springs out for max articulation?
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I only had my Land rover when I was a student. In reality, I used my bicycle more than my landy because, well, it just never worked when I needed it.
So the first thing I did once I got a job was buying a car that works so I actually know I get to work.
I have gone through a few cars, but now i drive the best car for this purpose:
The polo Bluemotion. It is a 1.2L 3 cylinder TDI, with taller gears in 4th and 5th, 20% lower aero drag and narrower tyres.
I usually get 65mpg over a tank, with the best recorded consumption on a run of 85 MPG. It is tax free due to the CO2 being lower than 100g/km.
I owned it exactly 10 years this month, and clocked up 120000 miles (bought 1 year old at auction with 25000 miles on the clock, it now shows 145000).
In these 10 years I spend £12.600 in fuel, more than I paid for the car (based on an average fuel price of £1.5).
If I had done these 10 years in a land rover, I would have spend £27300 (based on an average fuel price of £1.5)
There were a few problems along the way, but nothing like a land rover would have done.
I do try to have my land rover on the button in the garage, in case the polo stops working, or there is snow.
I quite like driving it, it is all you need to move 1 person from 1 place to the other on a normal road.
Just like I like driving my land rover, which is perfect for when you are up till your neck in the mud. And here is the thing, I don't need to go till my neck in the mud when I go to work.
I bought it because I expected the fuel price to rise exponentially, which only happened recently. I fully expect it to hit £2 a litre at some stage.
Over time a small saving becomes a big saving, this gets more important as fuel prices go up.
I am planning an electric car as a replacement in the future, but it needs to wait for a bit.
Daan
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Here is a project for you: have a small array of solar panels, but rotate them so they stay perpendicular with the sunlight at any given time. This is far more effective than stationary panels.
I did look into it some time ago, it is fairly complicated, but entirely possible, and has been done before.
Daan
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Stopping playing with rattly old Land Rovers and get a sensible econobox as a daily would save you tonnes annually
Burn the witch, burn him!
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30 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
I'm fascinated that people need to keep there homes at 20 degrees C in the winter! Our CH is set at 16 degrees C for the winter, off on a night, with just the block work round the fire retaining warmth for the morning.
We live in a mid sixties bungalow of four bedrooms, with a hoofin gert extension. If anyone is cold, then they get to put on a jersey or pull up a cat - same as in bed, put a fleece blanket over the duvet. The kids have grown up like that, I grew up without the CH bit, so regulalry scraped ice off the inside of my bedroom window. The wife is menopausal so is never cold; and in fact can warm a room.
As and when I pay off the mortgage, there will be a wood burner going in the sitting room, and in my office (that will be a very small one)
You should talk to my wife.
Hydro winch install musings
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I have not replied yet, as my knowledge of hydraulics borders on clueless basically. This is for me also a reason not to have a hydraulic winch.
Rather than telling you to buy a different winch, I will share my knowledge of prop shafts in this kind of application. The prop shafts I use in my PTO setup are derived from a used Freelander prop shaft, a new MGB prop shaft and an industrial universal joint. They all are based around the SAE1140 U/J standard of prop shafts, which are used by many cars:
https://www.driveshaftsolutions.co.uk/collections/universal-joints/products/uj1003-universal-joint
It is a good size for the power you are looking to transmit
To connect the freelander propshaft to the PTO, I had an industrial universal joint made up with a 7/8" hole with a keyway, in the SAE 1140 shape. I used a joke of this to connect the Superwinch PTO (mine has a 7/8" shaft coming out) to the Freelander bar shaft:
From there on it uses a freelander shaft for a bearing and I welded this to an MGB prop shaft. The MGB prop has a slider joint which you will need as well.
So I'd say an MGB prop shaft is a good start for your connection between the engine and pump. Just shorten it to what you need
Not sure what the pouly on your engine looks like or whether you could fit the MGB 4 bolt flange to bolt it on. I might have the flange floating about somewhere, which I could measure for you (If I find it..).
The pump end, a joke from an industrial UJ with the correct fitting in 1140 size should allow you to mount the UJ to the MGB prop.
To source the MGB prop, I'd say buy a new one, they are not expensive, and if you use a junk jard one, the UJ cups are staked so it is not sevice able, let alone swapping jokes out.
A lot of cars do have not serviceable U/Js.
Since we talk numbers on winches, my winch has a 9:1 ratio and weighs 25kg. The bumper I made for it weighs 12kg:
Regards,
Daan