Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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On 7/28/2022 at 10:04 PM, Bowie69 said:
Recently came across this bunch of nutters, driving Series one's around with all manner of engines in them, cross-europe:
I think I know what I would rather be driving
Speaking of the wrong car for a trip, a series one landy V8 on SAT tyres is definitely not the one I would choose to drive 3600miles across Europe. I didn't see a single moment where 4wd was needed. To me that is a bit waste full. For sure there are some great green lanes in France and Italy, which would make the use of a land rover worthwhile. It is the off road ability of a landy that made me buy one, so if that is not on the menu, it usually stays at home. Just my take on it.
Daan
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If I were going overlanding, I would take this:
https://tripnuts.de/produkt/campal-estate/
Based on the Dacia duster, has 4x4, diesel. does 50mpg and can do a ton if needed.
Very reliable and can be serviced at any renault or nissan dealership. From the videos I saw, it does more offroad than most defender owners ever do.
That would be my take on it.
Daan
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It is easier to change the diffs for a different ratio. You can fit series 1 transfer box to make the low range lower to compensate for higher diffs.
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On 7/25/2022 at 5:21 PM, Chicken Drumstick said:
I'm wondering if this might be a better bet. I know it isn't a V8. But I'd guess the M57 should be able to bolt up to the ZF HP24 without too many issues?
I'd say that is a bolt on solution, probably with a crashed beamer as the donor, you only need to get the ECU to work standalone. The best power according to wikipedia you can get from the 2006 version is 282hp with 580 nm.
Compared to the 4.6 giving you 226Hp, looks a good proposition for a project.
Tell us on here!
Daan
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34 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
it is a nice spot to do it.
Mike
Mike, sorry to hear about your typical land rover owners holiday; this is why my landy stays at home when I go on holiday these days.
On a more serious note, are composite head gaskets better for this? And is this what you ordered?
Daan
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If you fit the 4 x 2 kit with free wheeling hubs, it won't see much use. Has anyone tried offering up the range rover automatic bar shaft prop in this application? Not sure on the length, but the diameter is about half that of the ordinary prop.
The X-engineering handbrake can be reversed, like so, see my thread:
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Here:
and here:
More here:
All on our great forum; it appears cutting the chassis is not strictly needed.
Daan
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On 7/18/2022 at 12:25 PM, uninformed said:
Thanks Dan,
do you know if the box has more overall angle of operation (to make up for the shorter pitman)?
more turns lock to lock sounds like slower steering?
clearance should not be an issue for me as my axle housing is 150mm wider than factory.
I don't have the option of measuring angles accurately, but the swing of the ball joint is about 200mm lock to lock.
Daan
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Judging from the amount of people that busted it in competition.
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12 minutes ago, uninformed said:
Are you referring to the D2 steering box?
Yes.
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The sector shaft is stronger compared with the defender box, however, the worm is made out of cheese. As a result the improvement is not major.
It does have fewer tuns lock to lock though.
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Blackbird kit:
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That is not actually what I have. Mine is the later 300 seal, which is a bespoke ring with teflon rotating seals.
Like this:
I presume land rover have tried to solve this problem. I have gone through several of these, they end up ruined, coming out in 3 pieces with a load of swarf.
I cannot imagine an ordinary oil seal being much better in this application. I cannot revert to the earlier version anyway, unless I change the cover.
I have looked at fitting a sealed bearing here, as this would give you a lubricated seal, but the dimensioning of this makes it hard to find something suitable.
Daan
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More turns lock to lock is a disadvantage. I have looked at it, Blackbird industries does a kit, but LHD is a problem.
I have considered it, as the defender steering box is a bit of an turd. Land rover actually did this conversion on the works V8:
Not sure if the outside the chassis location would work for me, as the wheel gets quite close at max articulation and steering.
Daan
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One thing I have found on TDIs is that the outer crank seal is giving problems; the one sealing on the pouly is always running dry; after about 3 days of heavy off roading, this usually no longer seals, and the timing chest ends up full of water; not quite the problem you have here, but the problem of it always running dry is important here I think, it could create the noise you described. The internal crank seal is usually ok, as one side lives in oil and will get some lubrication.
So different materials/brands of seals may give different results here. I have not been able to solve this problem myself, other than regularly replacing the seal.
Daan
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I had to google this:
Cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) is a talking therapy that can help you manage your problems by changing the way you think and behave.
I'd say that kind of therapy is wasted on me, particularly when the subject is land rover wheels.
Daan
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Yes, but the ascetics are a bit challenging on a series. But that is just an opinion. Of the complete wheel snob that I am.
Daan
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3 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
Looks great Daan. Did you band them yourself?
No, I got a dutch specialist to do it for me. But he no longer does it now.
Daan
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17 hours ago, twodoorgaz said:
In the absence of a manufactured wheel, the next best thing to me would be to transfer the factory (or HD 130) wheel centres into a wheel 'barrel' that is already the right width and is already tubeless. I've seen it done before - Matt Urch did it in this video for an old Vauxhall but try as I may I've never found steel 'barrels' for sale and certainly not anything with the same profile as a stock LR steel wheel.
In the above video he got the barrels from John Brown wheels, I've just emailed them to ask if they can source a barrel that is defender sized. Their eBay ad for the Cortina barrels is here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185454200486?hash=item2b2dee86a6:g:wyMAAOSwvv9eDh0A
I did go through this, intending to remove the centres of my modular wheels and fit land rover centres. But the ID of the rim did not match the OD of the Centre. I think you have to stay with land rover rims or barrels as you call them to get the correct ID. You could start with a wolf wheel and replace the centre for a land rover centre. But cutting out the centre is a big job which you would have to do x10 and lining up the new centre is quite involved, so I came to the conclusion that banding is the only sensible way; It is very cheap and when done correctly, works fine. With wheels it is always at first you think the price is not too bad, until you multiply it by 5!
I run 35x10.5x16 simex on my banded wheels; they work much better then the Modulars they replaced, which were out of balance. The banded TD5 wheels are as straight as can be at any speed. No balancing was needed, it just works as is:
Daan
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If you put a 2" band in a standard 5.5" wheel, you will end up with a 7.5" wide wheel, that has an 8mm offset. It basically is the same offset as a 7x16 modular wheel. This makes the wheels exactly flush with the wheel arches.
I personally think that is the most cost effective way to achieve the right end result.
10 hours ago, Anderzander said:I think my banded ones are:
D 16. W 6.5 ET 8mm. Back 4” front 2.5”
the 8mm I may be wrong with though - as all the other measurements seem to be the same as 1 ton ones.
If you banded it by 1", the ET would be 20.5mm
If you want a 7" wheel, you could band it by 1.5", giving you an ET of 14.25mm
As mentioned, I found the 8mm offset gives you a wheel exactly flush with the outside of the wheel arch (depending on tyre width obviously) on both defenders and series landys. It is the usual offset of the Modular wheel, so you can compare it with that.
The 0mm offset sticks out slightly, so makes it too wide basically.
Daan
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On 7/1/2022 at 11:35 AM, GW8IZR said:
Hi, long time since I was here, been a funny few years hasn’t it?
Well the 90 passed its annual test this week, 235 miles since this time last year….
I have 5 of the aforementioned ANR1534 wheels , I always wanted a set of zu alloys on my 90 which I eventually bought and fitted Goodrich AT and they looked great….. but after a while I’m falling out of love with them (they seem a bit less utilitarian to me now) so I’m looking at my steel wheels again.
has anyone had them banded , if that’s the correct term, anyway made them suitable for tubeless tyres?
I have seen them advertised for rather a lot of money in the past but that may not be the case today so just weighing up options really?
TIA
You can get them banded and get beads welded on at the same time to make them tubeless:
If you add 2" to a standard 5.5 inch wheel, the offset will be about what you have now. I wouldn't touch the ANR1534, they are worth their weight in gold.
I used TD5 steel wheels, these have the well welded to the rim, which is better for tubeless, if the well is riveted to the rim, it can leak.
Better still is to start with TDCI (puma) rims, they have a bead pressed in from factory, band them and you have it tubeless straight away.
Or of course buy the wider ones.
It is all in my thread.
Daan
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2 hours ago, David Sparkes said:
I'm with Britannia Rescue; their policy is to take you to a convenient charge point, although I suspect this might not be a 'supercharger' of some sort, even if that is your preference.
I take something of a strong view on this, there should be some 'penalty' if your management is so bad that you fail to keep your vehicle charged. Personally I would be highly embarrassed if I was the driver who got into that situation, without some sort of vehicle or charge point failure.
Your view of the average driver is rather optimistic:
This tells you how much people manage to run out of fuel, and given that the range of EVs is about half that of fossil fuel powered vehicles, i'd say the only way is up!
More than 800,000 drivers a year run out of fuel | Daily Mail Online
Daan
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Did it have the large pto winch in the back? I think I saw that in scotland on the tay forest trophy.
To Stellaghorst, great to see you are on the mend, and great progress!
Daan
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14 hours ago, Anderzander said:
I’m fairly set on trying lockers this time. I love ATB’s and I’ve had auto locking diffs - but I think you’ve got to have an air operated locker at some point ?
Also the 80” has narrower axles - so I’d need to go with spacers to fit the Ashcroft HD shafts and go the 24 spline route …. and I wouldn’t want to move away from the tracta joints in the front … I’d really like to restrict the changes to the diffs and in truth - I drive it very gently.
I’d also use the compressor for airing down and back up again.
I know you just spend a load on your shafts, but you could try 109 Salisbury shafts. They are 24 spline and shorter than normal shafts, because the diff is much wider. Not sure by how much, but worth a hit.
Edit: I do know how long they are!:
576767 - Halfshaft R/H LWB Rear Series 3 (johncraddockltd.co.uk)
Daan
OK, whose 6x6 is this?
in International Forum
Posted
I think the first version does not look too bad, but that extension added on later looks like an afterthought. Anyway, the fact he found a parking space for it in Cambridge is my main surprise. I mean parking this thing anywhere, or things like a ferry, or even a roundabout would make this vehicle a challenge.
I think I had seen this before, the electric propulsion does ring a bell. Any word of how that worked out?
Daan