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Daan

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Posts posted by Daan

  1. as for the french version: quest e ce cai?

    In english: whats this?

    I think the 5 link would bind, which I think is what dirtydiesel means, saying that it doesn't flex a lot, unless you remove the fifth link. But I wouldnt like to go that route myself. I think the 3 link with panhard, with the link at the top of the diffcase is the way to go. A shame most of us have got an engine in the way. I have considered filthy boys suggestion, and that is potentially the most effective way of achieving more travel, but hard to achieve.

    Also, bad handling of the vehicle as a result of a 3 link is BS to me: That means you didn't get the geometry right.

    Daan

  2. You need to SVA a vehicle for all and any modifications past standard that effect, chassis, suspension, engine, brakes, structural bodywork, steering, drivetrain, fuel type.

    So how does that work with my s3, fitted with a 2.5 diesel engine (TDI)? I send the v5 of to have it changed, and we all know that a series 3 doesn't have a 2.5 litre engine. Also, the 25% rule has been completely ignored with this mod. Yet, The dvla happily changed the V5, no questions asked.

    That doesn't add up.

    Daan

  3. The back flip didn't contribute I dont think. The problem already existed before, but I feel it is now more than it used to be- a lot more.

    With my current workshop outfit, my tapemeasure is the most scientific thing around, so the alignment check is kind of limited. I have eyeballed the alignment of the wheels- basically make sure if the rear wheels are in line with the fronts. I realize that this is not scientific but while I played with my wheelbase this would certainly directed me to the problem.

    Jez, I will send you a pm, thanks.

    Daan

  4. not sure what to suggest on suspension but....

    Its good to see how much exitement you get out of a 2ft deep ditch!

    Ok, seriously, I think everybody looks at more droop in their suspension, But I think that bump is almost just as important. I know you are of similar thoughts nigel. What I tried to achieve on my car is 10" travel, equally bump and rebound, and I tried to get the travel front and rear balanced, rather than mainly rear. I personally dont believe max travel is the most important thing.

    Daan

    Daan

  5. you have a multistage pump, so you can suck oil from different strategic places- the whole point of a dry sump- so there is always one stage pumping oil. But this means loads of air from the others. Also, you try to create a vacuum in the sump to reduce losses, but together with the blowby past the pistons, you will have loads of gas regardless.

    Daan

  6. . Maybe your rear axle is pi$$ed giving the effect of rear steering ………..

    I know you are a smart cookie Daan so sorry if I’m telling granny how to suck eggs. :)

    Ian

    The rear axle pi$$ed is what I thought initially, but I kind of ruled that one out with changing the length of the rear suspension arms.

    About your last comment: thanks for that, but feel free to throw any suggestion at me, cause I am running out of suggestions myself...

    Last night I removed the fan belt in an attempt to stop the hydraulics working (yes I know it stops a few other systems working too). I drove it to the end of the street and it still goes left at a will of its own. So I kind of ruled out the pas box.

    I then removed the rear shafts, it still votes left. It than was time to go to bed.

    So now I think there is something wrong at the front end of the vehicle. The truetrac could be at fault, but The more I think about it, the more the swivel pre load becomes a possibility.

    Jez, I might take your suggestion serious to come and have a look at your workshop with tools on saturday afternoon(?).

    Daan

  7. snap......... :D

    Pah ………. Zero current draw ………… and no electrical dependence :P

    :D

    Ian

    good old Mechanical, it worked for 15 years on mine, the winch is 35 years old, getting a bit tired now.

    But hey, what do I know?

    Daan

  8. if you were to make your own tank: use a swirl pot internal of the tank which drops its oil onto 1 or 2 plates with a lot of holes which in turn drops the oil in bottom of the tank. make the tank as high as you possibly can package.

    Easyer is to use an existing dry sump tank which usually has this build in. But they can be hard to package.

  9. Do you have a gas steering damper as opposed to an oil one? Gas steering dampers can go wrong, such that gas pressure pushes the steering in one direction rather than remaining in the middle. Oil dampers don't suffer from this problem. All standard LR steering dampers are oil.

    Diff/halfshaft problem is a definate possibility.

    Regards,

    Diff

    damper standard lr.

    Got a load more ideas to pursue now, thanks guys.

    Daan

  10. Yeah, I think the detroit sounds suspicious...

    Do you have a regular diff you can throw in? If it's 24 spline 3.54 I've got one you can use.

    Al.

    I think a problem with the detroit would result in a completely solid diff, however, because the problem also persists on overrun, i suspect that isolates that one.

    That would be usefull. Its 24 spline 4.75 ratio, but that wouldnt matter. I think removing the rear shafts would isolate that problem as well. But a diff in paris wouldn't be too much good really...

    Daan

  11. good point on putting it into the air with the wheels running; Its just that all my workshop equipment (including 4 jack stands and a jack) is stored with my parents in holland while I was away to the Czech republic for a year, so its currently beg, steal and borrow for tools.

    However, from sunday onwards, i will be rejoined with my tools!

    Thanks all, will let you know the outcome.

    Daan

  12. Im confident they are not the same fitting, I believe 3 bolters are imperial fittings and 4 bolters are metric fittings.

    scheize....(the swearing detector of lr 4x4 wont recognize that I dont think!)

    The links are pretty sound, and fitting new bushes all round didnt change anything, I do have the feeling it got worse. It has radius arms all round with a panhard at the back.

    there is no tight spot in the box, but I feel a difference in going left as opposed to going right in the box, so I feel there is something not right hydraulic wise. I think my next step will be to disconnect hydraulics and see what that does.

    And more coffee. I have entered argyll and dont fancy driving this to scotland at the moment.

    Daan

  13. The issue of the box being straight ahead, I sort of isolated by adjusting the draglink a couple of turns both directions. It hits the lockstops on both sides so I dont think there is much in it. tyre pressures are dealt with, all at 30 psi. The problem is a lot bigger than any of these issues would be able to resolve, I think.

    I havent checked brake bind, with a truetrac at the front and a locker in the back this is quite hard. If brake bind is a problem I think it would show up after 150 miles, but still worth pursuing. Jez, I might take you up on that steering box borrow offer; does anyone know if the hydraulic fittings are the same between 3 bolt and 4 bolt boxes?

    Daan

  14. It had new pads and discs all round on the last mot. I thought about the steering damper, but if it was sticky, it wouldnt be only one direction. Wheelbearings should be ok, I collected it from bristol recently, did a 150 mile trip with it, bearings dont run hot or anything. The trip involved me having to hang on to the steering wheel about 20 degrees to the right in order to go straight. After 17 years of driving these sheds, my tolerance to details has gone to great lengths, so this is definately not a detail!

    Daan

  15. Guys, I have been struggling with my landy for quite some time now; It refuses to drive in a straight line. The tendency to pull to the left has been apparent for some time. It has been stationary for about 16 months now, in which I tried to remedy this and a few other things.

    So far I have tried:

    -replacing all the suspension bushes

    -check tyre pressures

    -swap tyres left to right

    -measure wheelbase left and right

    -adjust wheelbase 5 mm longer one side at the time just to prove the point

    -adjust tracking, now 0 toe

    -adjust draglink 2 turns in and out to see what it does

    -leave it alone for a week to think about it

    last night I drove it again and the pull to the left is absolutely ridiculous. It is on acceleration, deceleration, just driving along. the tendency to go to the left is always there, but varies on the amount of torque applied to the wheels. I think this is because of the detroit locker, but on a straight line, while accelerating and going through the gears, i must look like a drunk driver swerving left to right over the road.

    I am now suspect of the steering box; could the valving for the hydraulic system be faulty? It is a discovery 4 bolt box, a 50 pound as found sodbury special, so it could well be knackered. It doesnt leak, Which I believe is a first for a landrover steering box.

    To compound this problem, the box is Left hand drive, so borowing a box is not as straightforward as I would like (in the UK).

    Has anyone got any ideas or experience with this problem?

    thanks, Daan

  16. I reckon he uses the engine and gearbox from a front wheel drive vw pasat (engine longitudinal) or something similar and just have 2 chains to both driveshafts. Lock (weld) the diff and youre done! not sure what gearing it has though.

    Not sure about his steering. Interesting what the DVLA thinks of this?

    Daan

  17. I believe the way forward is a de dion axle; both wheels in line, but the diff fitted solid to the frame. The swiss army vehicle called duro has got this and it combines the advantages of both systems.

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