Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Do you really use FULL power for extended periods at low speed? For short periods the cooler will act as a thermal mass and absorb the high temperatures (and put the heat back into the intake flow when it cools down again, as well as into the cooling flow!). I admit, for longer durations the cooler will heat-soak, but I've generally found if I use full power for a long time at low speed, I'm either wasting my time or the low speed has become high speed by the time I've finished
Remember that there's a current draw (and power cost) to running a fan - will you make that back in increased power?
Yes, If you are offroad all day (like you are in Challenge events) the powerdraw of your fan (electric or viscous)means nothing compared to the difference between hot or cold intake air.
Daan
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Well I have my viscous and stick with it. On both installations i see in the picture I can see a problem: you are not cooling the intercooler. This is ok for road use, where you carry a bit of speed, but offroad you might as well ditch the intercooler. at least with the viscous, the shroud makes it work through the rad and the intercooler.
Daan
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Any of you guys have a freelander prop going spare? I am after one for a slightly different (but landrover related) application.
Thanks in advance.
Daan
Are all the propshafts in the bin? Or are you guys hanging on to it? I am after a complete propshaft and viscous coupling to build a prop for my PTO winch. The prop and viscous coupling can be completely knackered, as I will be chopping/changing/bodging them to suit.
Regards, Daan
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Feel free - it's not mine, I just typed "Fred Dibnah" into Google image search.
cool
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Fridge, can I use that image in my avatar?
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WHAT!? my name again? Yes I think the late Fred Dibnah should have been invited too, in which case I would have been there, just to meet him and have a laugh over this winch talk. I am a superfan of him!
Unfortunately, we cant invite him anymore so thats completely ruled out my participation.
I dont care.
Daan
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its something like (Xb Y Sb F) / DP = lbs/in IMS but its been a while since I worked out tangental loads for spur gears, maybe Dave A or DAAN could correct my maths?
Eh? My name? in an electric winch thread? I know jack about leccy winches or anything else sparky, which is why I steer well clear from them.
Which is why I dont get involved, because I am happy with prehistoric mechanical Dibnah style devices. That and because no one takes a blinding bit of notice of what I think.
This is now more starting to look like an electric/hydraulic WHINCH thread.
Still want to know the weigth of an all singing and dancing gigglepin 8274 though.
Daan
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not too bad in my opinion, but I would put the eye directly in line with the chassis, so get a direct pull on the chassis, rather than trying to bend the bumper.Tubing is also better, and while your at it, have threaded bushes welded in the bumper in line with the chassis, and bob is your mothers brother.
daan
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RFC? its a long walk home if your winch fails and the temperature is around 30 deg c to begin with.
Something else crossed my mind; If the objective is more motor, cant you just fit a bigger motor instead of two? usualy if things happen on a greater scale, efficiency improves. In my mind a bigger motor would therefore be better than 2 smaller ones. Or is it a supply issue?
Daan
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forgetting the heat generated, or the current required, one of my prime concerns is weight; so jim my question is how much does a modded 8274 with twin motors and bigger drum actually weigh? And how much have you added on top of this in terms of added batteries, alternators, cables and relays? (not having a go at your setup, just interested).
Daan
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PTO as it came 16 years ago on my s3. It was previously on a 1965 S2a, that makes it over 40 years old. Now fitted to my hybrid with a 5 speed box. I used a superwinch pto for 30 pounds on old sodbury. I did several events with it; tough trucks trophy twice, the RFC, the argyl. I think it is fair to say that the RFC is one of the hardest tests for any winch, 10 days of continues use (average around 20-30 times a day) The old girl is a bit tyred now, so a replacement is on the cards; guess what i will go for....
Daan
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Apart from the diff pan, bowlers are using standard axle cases as far as I am aware. Do you know were they bend? If they bend around the diff area, the stronger diff pan could help you. I would have thought if they last a dakar, they will do most things you can think of. But no experience first hand. I think the main reason to go for it is that they are wider and the kingpin is much further in the wheel. This will reduce kick back in your steeringwheel.
Daan
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happy new year to all.
Daan
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And then the plumbing
Ian, I ment to say this before, but those hoses are dangerously close to that seatbase edge; That will potentially chave away which would be anoying and dangerous. Nice install otherwise.
Daan
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I have seen this being used on a portugees landy. The spanish and portugees seem to like this setup. Problem I saw there was that stones and other carp got trapped in the spring and causing headaches. Interesting that the collar is being held on only by friction on the damperbody. I would say it is not solving the real problem, somehow. Anyway, anyone got one and can tell us more?
Daan
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Only when you reach the 500 post mark, then the option will be in your 'my controls'
but some of us have got a job to do as well...
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Is it true we cant change our title?
Had another name in mind to confuse a few people.
Daan
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I reckon it will work to get loads of travel, with small stroke shocks; that kind of ruined your plan with the long stroke jobbies. My opinion is that straight on the axle, exactly in line with the travel is best for control. Especially if you are planning on long travel, which generally means soft springs, I think the damping becomes more important. So I would fit them up straight inside the coil. (what I did and happy with it). Feel free to prove me otherwise, innovation is always a good thing.
Are you going to go for dislocating or dual rate springs, or whats the plan?
Daan
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Evening folks,
I am after some help to settle a disagreement with my employers, As some of you may know I work for a government department that owns a fleet of Land Rovers a lot of which and certainly the ones we use are fitted with Mechanical PTO Superwinch H14's. These winches are rated at 14000lbs which my maths works out at around 6.25ton or 6250kg approximately.
Now the problem I have is that we are supplied with strops for use with our winches but these are green and rated at 2000kg. Now as I understand it thats a 3rd of the SWL of the winch, In my oppinion it is not safe to continually exceed the SWL of a strop. I have tried to explain this to my employers the answer I get is that the strop is the weak link in the system of pull! er I would rather hope the weak link should be the clutch in the PTO drop box? I find it really hard to understand the strop is a weak link if this breaks we have 30meters of high tensile steel cable going AWOL!!
Does anybody have any thoughts on this I am sure you will but what I am really after is some cast iron proof what we are doing isn't particularly safe, IE can any one please point me to a link to a section of the LOLER regs or H&S @ Work act??? I need to show them evidence.
I seem to remember that lifting gear has a safety factor of 7:1 so a 2000kg sling shouldn't break till 14000kg, can anyone tell me what the safety factor for winch tackle should be? Because as I see it we are using a system with a safety factor of 2:1???
Have I explained this ok does it make any sense???????
Any thoughts gratefully recieved
Cheers
Matt
I uderstand the point, but what are you actually doing with the winch to need that pulling power? 6 tons of pulling, that is lifting 3 landrovers in the air. I think that is a lot of pullingpower for one winch. As you say, the clutch should (and will) slip before anything breaks. My clutch did slip with little torque applied, even after max adjustment. I ended up locking it solid to prevent this problem.
Daan
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I can see the 36" in the pictures work well, although a tad wide. Has anyone on here actually tried these modified tyres?
Daan
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Sounds great, and you must have done plenty of homework to get the costs down to that level. Have you done this sort of thing in any other countries?
Not really, apart from scotland, belgium and holland but none of these events got close to the RFC in terms of length and toughness. Either you can go to russia or australia for international events. It is hard to organise this as a team as it is a big involvement to go and do it. In 2003 there were 6 teams suppose to go, but when it was time to load up cars in containers, there was noone left but myself and my co driver. So we shipped my car in a 20 foot container and that was team UK/NL in 2003. Not cheap as you can imagine, but no regrets.
Daan
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I think you will find the cost very reasonable, especially with the 3 car team scenario. I am not earning the world, otherwise I wouldn't spend my time hanging around old sodbury sortout for bits would I?
With the 3 car in a container idea, the price is going to work out at around 3k per car all in: the shipping of the car, the entry fee of the event and two return flights. Not pocket money for most of us, and definately not for me, but still achievable if that is your intention. If you have a willing co driver (which I had) you can split the costs 50:50 and for 1.5k your away. I think it is comparable to a seasons offroading in the UK. Guess why I am not doing much events in the uk.......? You and your co-driver will need 2 weeks off in november.
To spend 10 days offroading in the jungle I think that is exeptional value. It is a live experience and the best thing I have done.
Daan
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Where was that photo taken Daan?
Malaysia, during the RFC in 2003.
Anybody on this forum fancies the RFC in 2007? we could team up with 3 cars in one 40 foot container.
Daan
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I must agree there!
Does anyone have experience running a tdi with series box?
Thanks, its not built for show purposes though:
As I said before, the series box doesn't last long with a TDI and has to short a range. Also, if you were to use a PTO winch, you cant use an overdrive, making things even worse.
Daan
crownwheel bolts loose
in International Forum
Posted
I am giving my landy a bit of a once over after having served myself pretty good for around 5 years.
Part of this is by pulling the diffs to have a look. I was worried to see the rear crownwheel bolts were only fingertight.
This is on a detroit diff with 4.7 KAM crwonwheel and pinion and a 4.7 spacer. I run 35 inch simex.
The whole thing has obviously been worked pretty hard over the last 5 years. I fitted the whole setup myself, using loctite and 40-45 LB-ft of torque as per manual. I seem to remember that the required torque seemed quite low.
My question is whether I can up this a bit, say 50% to prevent this happening again. Anyone done this? It is fitted with BSP bolts and thick washers. Another trick I was thinking is to use Schnor washers, to stop them getting undone.
I have heard of more people having had this problem and the question is obviously whether people have solved the problem succesfully.
Cheers, Daan