Daan
-
Posts
4,950 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Daan
-
-
Calling it off for this reason is allowed...But continue the build and the story!
Daan
-
1
-
-
-
3 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
I'm hoping to retire at 75, so another 19 years. I may go down to 4 days a week for the last few years. Alternatively when I finally get divorced, I might just buy a van and travel round Greece and Albania until I manage to drink myself to death
Looks like you've got it all planned!
-
On 2/13/2022 at 9:17 PM, PandaSpeedShop said:
Got them ordered, thanks for the link.
I need to hold out for the 300M rear tough. Worst case I will have 2WDFirst a comment to Nigel: Pornographic material is not allowed on this forum, I have reported you to the headmaster
.
The 300M shafts are in my opinion a bit pointless on a Land rover axle. I mean if you make the shafts unbreakable, the failure will occur somewhere else, in this case, the diff?
The result of a broken diff is far more severe than a broken shaft; It could prevent you from finishing the stage, whereas a broken shaft only means you have 3 wheel drive, you finish the stage and fix the shaft in camp.
Daan
-
2
-
1
-
-
You can actually buy it off Jake wright:
https://jakewright.com/upgrades/classic-land-rover-power-steering-conversion
-
This video shows it can be done:
I can't say I am too impressed with the concept, as the play in the steering box, relay and all the joints is still there. The execution is very nice though.
Daan
-
1
-
-
'just drop in an engine' tends to go like this. This is why I hate doing these things to a deadline. It always seems there are more problems as the deadline gets closer.
-
I doubt they will break with 33" tyres.
Daan
-
-
3 hours ago, Carloz said:
6mm or 6,35mm... Big deal.
The (unkown?) material quality is a bigger factor...
But well, progress there is! 🙃
The difference is 0.35mm, or 6%. Not much, but because the spring is much wider (about 40%, since I started in percentages), the bending force on these is much greater. So I made them much deeper compared to original. Surely 6mm would have done it, but given the option, I thought 1/4" would be better.
Daan
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
An update, I managed to get some time for my jeep project.
The front spring plates were a bit of an issue; The wider springs did not allow me to use standard parts. I tried CJ7 rear spring plates, which fits on the LH side, but the RH side is different, due to one of the u bolts being larger, wrap around the diff housing. So I needed to make my own.
The jeep spring plates are all made out of 1/4" plate; It appears such thing is no longer available in the UK through the usual channels, only 6mm. As this is highly stressed, I did not want to compromise on strength.
Luckily, help was at hand in the shape of his Lordship Sir Stephen Stellaghorst, who send me the needed material for which i am very gratefull.
His help to our community has been tremendous and he has now moved to the Knighthood status in the LR4x4 democracy.
That was the material sorted, and now it came to bending it. I don't have tooling to bend this material, so I will resort to my bare hands to do this, with some added steelwork.
Starting like this, I draw 2 lines for each bend, one is the beginning of the bend, the other the end of the bend:
.jpg.8bebf957aac993c973a8283c09e1ef56.jpg)
Clamp it in a vice:
Now add the bending device, this consists of 2 large angle sections clamped together with 2 M12 bolts:
-Copy.jpg.b69f3f998282925f27c4a47e264f3311.jpg)
So what we are trying to do is to allow the plate to bend in the area between the black lines, but not anywhere else.
Now add the extension bar, it is a metre long box section with a bit of angle iron welded to it:
Now bend it using the aforementioned bare hands.
now bent:
I usually bend it in 2 stages, one halfway between the line to 45 degrees, then right to the line to get to the full 90 degrees.
Not too bad a bend:
After this, cut off excess material, drill the holes and weld on the shock absorber pin, which I cut out of the original spring plates:
Mounted, a bit of modding was required to the dana diff housing so the larger u-clap can move further inboard:
Thanks for reading,
Daan
-
6
-
1
-
Very neat. I personally made it into a box section, to avoid the mentioned mud accumulation problem. but that does not stop mud accumulating above it...
Daan
-
1 hour ago, PandaSpeedShop said:
Is this avoiding a split charge system altogether? Sorry if I am asking stupid questions.
It does. I have no experience with this myself, but know of people doing it. I only run a standard single battery as I run a PTO winch at the front.
There are no stupid questions BTW, just stupid answers...
-
Are you replacing the existing battery as well? If you buy 2 identical batteries from the same batch, running them in parallel is the easy option.
Daan
-
Yes, that looks good. The A-pillar is the most important to fend of trees, further backwards, it all depends on how much you value body work. The added bonus is roll over protection, depending on how you mount it to the car. That snorkel on the picture won't last though. Ideally it needs to sit inside the cage.
Daan
-
1
-
-
Looking good. What are you planning in terms of battery power to back it up? The winch would have no problems pulling the car out of trouble, but it needs plenty of juice to do it.
Protection bar across the wing is not a bad idea, but I would start with protecting the roof line and front screen. A wing is easily replaced, an A-pillar less so.
Daan
-
Are you sure the clutch pedal fully disengages and frees the compensation hole in the master cylinder? It could be the system does not make a connection to the reservoir when the clutch pedal is in rest. this might cause the slave cylinder still press the clutch slightly when you expect it to be fully engaged.
-
1
-
-
I didn't think the tree of god was a problem; total anti climax once I saw it, just drove past without touching anything - or rolling down the hill.
-
For the clutch, use a clutch from a 130, as this is about 10mm bigger. Fits to your flywheel, I think mine was from Valeo.
The seals between the gearbox and transfer box were both leaking on mine, but this has seen some severe abuse offroad. Replace the wear collar on the lt77 output shaft (with difficulty) and the O-rings in the 230 casing.
No comments on the hi cap sump, but it can't hurt with your use.
Daan
-
2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
If you can't afford to trailer home a heap of scrap, I wouldn't go.
2 hours ago, PandaSpeedShop said:No trailer here, it’s getting driven there and back.
2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:I sincerely hope you've joined the AA ...............
Regards Stephen
A couple of point here:
-ignore Bowie 69; if you think like that you will never go!
-I did drive it to Russia, had a slight issue with the alternator seizing up 1 mile before Harwich. We made it to the ferry (shoe lace to water pump). Then attempted to fit my spare at the docks in Hoek van Holland. Unsuccessful, as it did not fit.
I got a new alternator at my old parts place in Holland (was there last time 10 years earlier, but they still recognised me).
The event had its problems, with a fan loosing all its fins. We replaced this with a Lada fan which we found in this Russian parts place (Fridgefreezer can tell you the address and link a video).
On day 6 we broke a cambelt on a road section due to the cam chest full of well, swamp basically. We fixed this in camp that evening.
We finished a better than expected 6th place. Now we only needed to drive home. All was well until we saw the oil light flickering slightly. We investigated and concluded that there is oil pressure and therefore the switch was faulty. Unfortunately, as these things go, this was the wrong diagnosis; There was oil pressure, but the oil volume at higher RPM was not enough. This was caused by a microwave sized rock that hat clouted the sump on one of the stages where we had to traverse and are full off these massive rocks. The dent in the sump blocked the strainer on the oil pump and therefore reduced oil flow. This is something to consider for the TD5 as well, as this has an aluminium sump, rather than a steel sump like the tdi.
The failure happened 50 miles before the Russian border and presented itself with some very expensive noises coming out of the engine, which was no3 big end bearing. Dan and Jen (in the camel 110) kindly towed me out of Russia to our stay over place near Helsinki. From here I got my AA European breakdown cover involved who did recover the car and delivered it to my home 3 weeks later. So, yes AA membership is advisable, but it is no good in Russia, as Russia is not in Europe.
So, there you have it, it is all perfectly possible, but there are always unexpected things happening and then it comes to how you adapt and overcome problems.
One of the best events out there, and as they say, you only regret the things you did not do.
Daan
-
4
-
-
1 hour ago, PandaSpeedShop said:
Thanks for the information guys. Did not even consider tyre soap as causing a problem. I wonder how much they will actually flatten out when aired down, they seem super rigid on the side wall currently. Do they soften up with use at all?
I guess being remoulds they aren’t the best performing tyre.
Also slightly concerned about them not being aggressive enough, they shouldn’t dig down but they may be a bit lacking in bite for the muddy sections. I hope they self clear ok with a bit of throttle.
The other issue I am worried about is the weight and size of the thing. Going to be a 300/400kg heavier than most I recon. It’s 2200kg as it sits right now. No crew, no spares and on smaller tyres. The 2 seats will be coming out of the 2nd row and I think I will be loosing all the carpet but she’s going to be a big heavy beast. Any idea on what yours weighed in at @Daan?
I think you got the right thread (but then I would say that, as I suggested them). The stiffness could be an issue, them being remoulds, so try at 10 psi and 5 psi if you notice any difference.
Weight: my car measured 1820 kg on the SVA test with all kit on it. For Ladoga, we had no back up crew, so we carried camping gear and spares ourselves. I'd say it was around 2 ton on the event.
If you think that's good, the russians are very fanatic at this event and bring defenders that weigh 1600 kg only.
But they are going for a position in either TR1 or TR2. I think you are doing the right thing and put your car in adventure, and it will be ok. Be very considerate as to what you take in terms of equipment etc. as it all adds to the weight.
This video gives a pretty good idea of what your class looks like. That G-wagen is heavier than yours and sport simex pattern tyres that are rock solid:
Still, they have plenty of fun!
Daan
-
1
-
-
I was just thinking about the tyre coming off when lowering pressures. Luckily there is about 3 months for it to dry. There is also the option of breaking the bead, apply Gorilla glue tot he beads and pump up again. This seemed to have worked for some people. Duct tape is another solution, like this:
Easiest is inner tubes. I ran the croatia trophy with inner tubes at 5 PSI, without problems, but the tyres were fitted years before that without soap.
As is, I would not go lower than 10 PSI.
Daan
-
Looking good; have you used soap to fit the tyres or dry?
Daan
-
Hi, great to see this happening. Are you keeping the LR4x4 thread updated please, as many of our members will be interested seeing you attempting this. Those links don't seem to work BTW.
Are you changing the diff ratios while doing the diffs? The swamps are all about crawl ratio, I was running 4.75 with 35" tyres and a TDI engine.
Daan
-
1
-
.
The (unkown?) material quality is a bigger factor...
.jpg.8bebf957aac993c973a8283c09e1ef56.jpg)
-Copy.jpg.b69f3f998282925f27c4a47e264f3311.jpg)
OT : Retirement. Really?!
in International Forum
Posted
With the inflation rates as they are, Retirement might soon be a luxury for some people, sadly.