Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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This is what I use, stopped all blockages:
https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/200tdi-300tdi-axle-breathers/
Daan
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22 hours ago, Sigi_H said:
Absolutely not. I made it on my OneTen MY83. Where the bearing slips on, a spacer will slip on either. I made my spacers on my lathe, but they had the same size like stock spacers. It is not to speed up production, the production will even be slower. But it is self explaining in my eyes, that the fixed inner race of the bearing will elongate the lifetime a lot. If you look at your stub axle, you will see that the inner race have turned. The seal will have to work with this movement and will shortly let water in. Then everything is going to be killed.
Hi, are you saying you created a longer spacer to suit the early hub, or have you changed the hub and stub axle to the later version? I found the earlier setup much better, due to the bearings spaced further apart. This makes the setup much more stable, especially if you run big tyres.
Bearing life seem almost infinite if you run the bearings in oil, rather than grease. A spacer could work in theory, but it means the tolerance has to be incredibly tight, and there is the tolerance stack up between hub, bearings and spacer which is very hard to keep consistent. At least with the old system you could adjust the bearings if there was a bit too much play.
That is before I get into smaller CV and shaft on the newer system, as well as less engagement of the splines in the drive member.
I personally went from the new system to the old system, simply because I believe it is a better setup.
Daan
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Looks like crown has approval of several manufacturers:
It is encouraging there is a short term solution available, if this became mainstream, it would substantially reduce co2 reduction in an instant.
Daan
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6 hours ago, max gray said:
(The date of this is Tuesday 1st February 2022)
Right I have spoken to specialists at crown oil who have sent me through alot of info . In the conversation I had with him this is what was said:
on Eco grounds All HVO is produced abroard. They are the importers of HVO from "Neste" a huge company in Finland where they sell HVO at petrol stations as a straight alternative to deisel for the last 17 odd years.thay have fully traceable product and garentee no palm oil or nastys added to their product and you can trace it from source. It is good even quality all the time.
HVO has a Nett 91.3 % Co2 Reduction garenteed.
It has a shelf life of 10 years
It has a -32 degree tolerence unlike Bio fuel
it is 100% FAME free so really nothing like bio fuel. No pereshing of valves rubbers etc.
there are aparently 5 improters of HVO all of them bar one are selling Hvo for £1.67 to £1.68 plus VAT per litre with the exception of one importer who is selling it for £0.85p per litre (Watson oil is one of the distributers)
distributers will only deliver to you 1000 ltrs min (you could buy a 1 meter cubed water container and have that filled )
It is a direct fuel replacement and ive been told it can be mixed with diesel if you need to. Most manufactures of modern cars will have had their cars run on this in countries that sell it so it will be possible to contact them for confirmation that this product will work in their engine. Im waiting for land rover to get back to me ( i have 300tdis and td5s on my farm).
the government tax point is the same on HVO 11.5% tax for red (agri) and 57.95% for white HVO.
it is not currently subsidised for road use but this may change if gov ralise this is a quick way for them to meet Eco credentials. if a company produces HVO in the uk it would be a game changer.
If i get a response from you ill put up the bumph I received from the HVO specialist.
hope this helps?
That is very interesting, an instant 91.3 percent Co2 reduction; short term that has to be the way forward.
Out of interest, how long have you been waiting of land rover to give you an answer? Could be the bottleneck....
Daan
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Looking good, how far are you mounting this all to the car?
Daan
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Hi, and welcome to the mad house.
Feel free to send some pictures of your S1.
I think the s3 box will fit ok.
Daan
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Adrian Flux is who I use. Are you a young driver? I think the van thing is more important weather you can carry passengers in the back.
You can maybe go for a classic car insurance on lower miles, depending of the year of car.
Daan
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On 1/21/2022 at 10:36 AM, landroversforever said:
Any option for one of the starter/generator things used in some new stuff?
That is way too new fashioned for this build!
40 minutes ago, Wytze said:Daan, do you have room to mount it the other way round? I did that on the Mini round nose with a Suzuki G13B. Turned the altenator around in the wing.
I do, but I don't want to. Will cross that bridge when I come to it.
Daan
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11 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
If you’re in engineering there are usually opportunities to acquire things
But that does not solve the problem of where to put it. Lovely stuff chaps.
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1 hour ago, PandaSpeedShop said:
I have entered into the adventure class, waiting on a race number and more information from the organisers. I have been talking to the guy running the event.
I have also got a new credit card coming, hope it’s a water cooled one. Going to get hot with all the spending 😂
Good, and good to hear you have a sense of humour, you will need it!
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I drove all on the mudzillas. Jez obviously had the car trailered, but even he has driven in the past with the boggers. They last easily there and back.
Have you actually entered the event?
Is Jimmymad99 going this year?
Daan
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10 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Could you run it off a flexible shaft ? 😉
I can predict the outcome of that.
And making the same mistakes, while expecting a different outcome is the first sign of insanity.
Daan
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Cheers Dan.
Plenty of space under the bonnet, the engine is tiny. Other areas are still a problem though, alternator mainly.
Daan
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2 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
If you build a vehicle for a competition, build it to finish
Now you just give the game away!
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I had something weird like that for a long time (the car does not get much use). It was only at 70mph fully loaded on the motor way. I had gone through all the motions you have. And it was air pressure at speed bending the rear fender and eyebrow inwards while driving, causing it to rub on the tyre. right at the rearmost point. All I had to to was cut out 10mm of the corner of the eyebrow and it was gone.
I have also had a mudflap bending backward at speed, touching the tyre, doing the same thing.
Daan
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I think the later you sell, the better. Inflation is the word I think is what raises prices of property and classic cars. So if you have money in the bank, you need to spend it on either of these commodity's or you will just loose money. How long it will keep going up is the big question, but i think for years to come. There is the American market for the older defenders and also the Twisted, kahn and Arkonik etc tuning crowd who need base vehicles to create their Chelsea tractors. You cannot get new defenders anymore (not proper ones anyway), so the demand will always be there.
Series land rovers are now seen as proper classic cars, and even series 3s are fetching quite a lot of money, so I think that will keep happening.
Daan
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I think if you go with Insa, the extreme line mud terrain would be the best bet:
The problem with the special track, (or any simex pattern) is that they don't work well in the swamps. They seem to dig holes in a swamp I think. I have first no hand experience with this, but Uncle Jez has forbidden me to take my Simex tyres to Ladoga, so I bought the Mudzillas. They were amazing in the swamps, and even on the forest tracks, although they are not that course, they are the best self cleaning tyre I have ever seen. If you look at this picture, the thread is completely open:
It is as real shame you cannot get them anymore, as it would be a great choice IMO.
In Russia, the solution if your tyres are too big is a chain saw.
Daan
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Hi Dan, long time no see! Good to see you are keeping well, and the dirtydiesel workshop is still going.
Jeep looks good, when is the first test?
I am working on a jeep project as well, link at the bottom.
Regards, Daan
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A high mount winch would be better, as you need 100 foot minimum, plus several extensions if you are in a swamp and the tree is too far away (we had 800 ft extension in total).
The come up or goodwinch seems to get good write ups. I have a superwinch EP9 as rear winch, has worked most of the time (I run a PTO at the front).
Perhaps a bowmotor for more punch as well as double batteries to back it up.
Your car will be the best part of 2.5 tons, so you need a lot of pulling power to get it out of a swamp.
Fit the new winch to the front and your spare to the back, so you can swap them over.
Daan
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Hi Panda, and welcome to the madhouse. I was with the group of landies doing Ladoga in 2009; Tyres, the locals like to use the bogger tyres:
They are not available here anymore due to EU regulations on noise. If you want them you can still import them from the US. I used the Maxis Mudzilla, and they were very, very good in the swamps, and average in the forests:
Maxis now has the Trepador, which I think does get used in Ladoga as well.
As mentioned, get the biggest tyre that is allowed in your class, and you need some kind of tyre retention option. Bead locks are not allowed in TR1, but you can gorilla glue the tyres to the bead or at the very least use inner tubes.
We were running tyres as low as 2 psi in the swamps, which was key to the performance there.
The winch will need to be very dependable, if it dies, Ladoga is over for you. So at the very least a spare motor or spare winch and use double batteries. I would not rely on traction control; If it even works, you will go through a set of brake pads in less than a day. Diff locks are a good idea, as are heavy duty shafts. If you think of building a new car for Ladoga, Can I suggest choosing a different car? A disco is heavy for Tr1, where you are up against Suzuki Jimnys which are half the weight of a disco.
Most important thing is to get to the end of it, and 8 days of hardcore offroad is not easy, most people struggle to get to the end of a 1 day pay and play event in 1 piece, let alone 8 days non stop.
Reliability and weight are the most important things for Ladoga, in this order.
We liked the event very much, it was completely different from what we have done before. To give you an impression of the swamps, where the average off roader likes to apply max power where it gets difficult, in ladoga, you race at tickover in the swamps. Your car need to be able to do this for miles on end:
If you can do this, fine, if not, you are winching for miles on end. That is Ladoga in a nutshell.
Daan
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1 minute ago, monkie said:
Hats off to all of you with multiple Land Rovers. I'm only just keeping my head above the water with a job list for just the 1 of them!!
I always thought that, but now I have 2 projects too.
On the Jeep, well get it running, but I doubt that will happen in 2022.
The landy, fit rear seats, so I can take the family, and fit door locks.
Daan
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Very sorry to hear, wishing you a healthy 2022.
Regards,
Daan
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It will shred the tyres at the first bump.
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Merry christmas!
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New to me toys
in Tools and Fabrication
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a painting?