Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Good to see you keep the light weight theme going...
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The 255/85/16 is a very good tyre, as mentioned, especially if you run stock axles. If you are willing to upgrade, it is in my opinion 285/85/16 or 35*10.5*16 in old money. 9.00x16 is also good, but hard to get. It seems the larger diameters have very little choice in thread patterns unfortunately.
Does anyone on here have experience with 8.25 x 16 tyres? How do they compare with 255/85/16?
For wheels, it is very personal, but original land rover wheels do look right on a land rover in my opinion. Just get them banded to achieve the right offset and width.
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I changed tyres many times; the hi-lift jack to break the bead as shown in the video, 1 tyre lever and a long crowbar are my tools.
Don't leave your drive without a hijack, it is one of those things you don't regret taking if you are going somewhere remote.
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My polo didn't have one when I bought it; after 7 years of ownership I decided I was on borrowed time, so I bought a spare wheel for it. 3 months later I had a puncture.
I think the reasons for not having one is cost, weight and the majority of the population incapable of changing it.
The boss last week had a puncture next to the playground in the village, .5 mile away from home:
Clearly the job of changing it was delegated to myself, but I got a helper.
I must say, as an engineer I can do it, but getting the spare wheel from under the car is a major puzzle; it involves removing the rear mat, and a rubber plug, which reveals a hex driver for a winch to lower the wheel on the ground using the wheel brace to drive it. This than gives you the wheel and the jack which is packed in a tupperware type box which has a sliding lid which is almost impossible to remove without a screwdriver. As the jack is exposed to the elements, it had gone rusty and is very hard to operate; nothing a bit of WD40 can't solve, but that is not something I usually carry. This is all nothing compared to trying to get the wheel back under the car, which requires 2 hands to keep the wheel horizontal and a third to operate the winch. Clearly a designer has been given a job to sort out the spare wheel mounting and not given Joe average a go at actually changing a wheel. It is non starter IMO for the usual customer.
Similarly, if you have a defender with a 7.50x16 tyre on the back door, is the average (lady) driver able to lift it up?
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I am not sure about them failing due to overloading, if you run the later, thin style hub, I'd say they will fail at some stage. Most challenge trucks run hardened drive members, so it surely is a problem.
I think them stripping the splines in normal use is the result of the car running grease in the bearings, rather than oil, which causes the splines to run dry and rust, similarly to the gearbox output shaft.
Once they had added oil supply holes the problem was solved.
My bearings run in oil, and the drive member splines are mint.
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But if you fit a 4 pin diff, you remove a weak spot that could stop you in your tracks. You could still break a shaft but you can usually keep going. My ideal weak point is the drive member; easy to change and carry a spare of.
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5 hours ago, missingsid said:
When I started to race Comp Safari with a mate in the 80s/90s some of the top drivers drove to and from events in their race cars. Pete Rowe came from Cornwall or Devon the former I think can't remember. The advice we were given by our friend another racer was to do the same as it made sure you finished every time!
Has worked for me, usually...
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2 hours ago, smallfry said:
Excellent read. And this nugget..........
Factory reliability can only decrease with each modification, so I never modify the driveline, engine and other key systems.
😄
I agree with most things said, but modifying the drive line is potentially going to increase reliability on a landrover.
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6 hours ago, Snagger said:
My son is mad keen on it. He’s rowing at BUCS and Henley this summer.
As for me training, there is a three letter word more offensive to me than any four letter profanity: “gym”. I don’t see ellipticals, cycling machines, ergs, treadmills and such - I see racks, stocks, iron maidens, branding irons and other inventive torture implements. 😱
Cool, I never quite made it to Henley, but we did try the Henley qualifiers- lost out by about 2 secs. We did win the Boston Marathon in a coxed four though.
Daan
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I used to row, and that involved quite a bit of weightlifting to build up muscles.
I assume you need an engine out of your landy and you have no hoist?
Daan
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Is the winch reversible? As in put the worm box to the left rather than the right, viewing from the front.
you can always put it upside down, with the worm on top. When I switched from the 36:1 to the 9:1 ratio, it turned out they rotate a different direction; I had to change the fairlead position so it spools from the bottom rather than the top of the drum.
I have a rear facing PTO in bits, that I might be convinced to part with, or swap for a willys jeep PTO....
Daan
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you can drill through the cover to make the shaft pointing the other way, still utilizing the chain drive in your drop box. Or get a rear facing PTO. I Don't know how the winch is positioned relative to the transfer box.
Daan
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Sectional doors are much better for insulation, but if that does not bother you, the roller shutter is about half the price.
I am currently looking at sectional door, but for the size of my double garage you look at about £2k.
There is loads used on ebay though, so I have a search that provides daily updates, and I just wait until the right size/colour/price/location turns up.
One other consideration (if you don't mind the ecstatic's) with a roller shutter is that you can put the roll outside the garage as well. This would give you about a foot of extra garage space.
Daan
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On 6/7/2021 at 7:20 PM, ThreePointFive said:
Many of you will know that I recently discovered my starter motor had broken off in a fairly dramatic way and I now urgenty need to address this before I can move on with any element of my build. It absolutely has to take priority as the car is completely undrivable until I sort it. I now have my replacement unit and all the tools to do it, I just need to get on with it.
...so I'm going to work on the ARB bullbar.
I bought this about 10 years ago when one came up, I've always loved the look but they ddn't seem to come up very often. This one was a bit crusty but solid, though not the winch-specific version I really wanted, it had been used with one and hadn't caused the previous owner any issues. Seeing that it was covered in surface rust, I had it shot blasted and powder coated as it seemed superficial, and ended up with this:
Not bad for having been stored many, many years ago, just a few light scratches in the coating.
Looks can be deceiving though.
Far from just minimal surface rust, the front face is quite pitted and the rear is far worse.
It's also pretty dented.
Three major dents in the driver side bar:
Here's the mountings for the winch, drilled into the top plate. Unsure how a fairlead was attached though:
The mountings are also bent all over the place. Either it was dropped at some point or hit a tree because both sides are like this and I won't be able to fit it with the lower plate kicked up like this - it's a smaller gap than the dumb iron will fit into.
All in all, it's a passable bumper from a distance but close up it's had a hard life. While I'm all for using the car properly and not tarting it up to make it unusable, I want to start it out with something fairly straight. I'm not worried about the physical structure, it's more than tough enough so any repair is cosmetic.
It's a shame as the coating is in good condition, but I'm going to have to rough it up, use metal filler on the pitted areas, prime and paint. I have a filler, I'm hoping I don't need to get it down to bare metal for it to stick properly. I have a plan for smoothing out the dents on the bar, too.
Clearly I need to fully address these significant cosmetic issues before I try to move on with fitting any of the extras/accessories to the bumper, which would be a distraction.
So naturally I started looking at how I could mount two spotlights.
I bought these in the group buy on here, also about 10 years ago. I'm sure newer generations will blow them out of the water for performance, but they will light up and weren't expensive, so meet my two main criteria. Here's the standard light mounts:
No good for me. The lights have two legs so can't mount like this. I neded to create a strap to mount each light to, bolting centrally through the bar's intended mounting hole.
The mounts are this annoying profile though, so I can't mount it below without some kind of spacer or it would bend upwards. I did have a plan for bending a strip of ali using two blocks of wood with this shape cut into the join between them and then use a vice to press it into that shape, extending each side to give the legs something to bolt to. Then I realised this was over complicated and boring. Another problem is the rotation that each light would be prone to - I would have to bolt them very tightly to stop side-to-side turning.
So I decided a top-mounted strap joining both sides together was simple and prevented individual light movements:
This provides a conduit to run the wire across as well, so invisible from most angles. Bolted loosely up, it looks a bit like this:
The lights sit nice and high so not obstructing the airflow to the radiator and they're forward enough as to not light up the bar and be visible from the interior. They're also set back to avoid any contact off road. As you can see though, it all is essential that I spend the time smartening it up, painting and correct sized bolts and washers before I can say it's a finished and move on to the next job.
So I started looking at the indicators.
Even these tabs are bent slightly to make fitting awkward and I'm not sure what the fittings for the lights are even meant to be. I have some indicators that were listed as suitable for VWs and ARB bumpers so must be generic. They have screws but undoing them takes out the whole unit rather than just the lens, which is pretty annoying. I took out the lokut things from the light fittings and pushed them into the tabs which seems to hold them in place but it doesn't seem right, yet googling shows nothing. Anyone know what's meant to be here?
Having smoked lenses and amber LED bulbs meant I could disepense with the amber lens insert so I think they fit in well and the bulbs are very bright so won't have any issues in the day. All assembled, the bumper looks something like this:
I'm interested in mounting the winch. It could sit on top as the holes suggest, but I'm wondering if I could do something different. Is there anything to stop a winch from being mounted upside down? So it would sit inside the section of the bumper with a fairlead cut in the middle, making it a hidden install. I understand it's better to be able to see the rope but not essential and this won't be a challenge truck, most of the time it won't even have the rope on the drum. Interested in thoughts on this.
I intend on updating this as I go, I don't know if anyone will really care but if nothing else it can serve as a 'lessons learned' for filling, sanding, priming and painting over an existing powder coated surface.
Yes, you can use the winch up side down. depending on the winch, it might be worth to rotate the motor 180 degrees so the connections are at the top.
With regards to the weight: that's heavier than my front bumper and winch together!
Daan
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23 hours ago, smallfry said:
Yes it is. While I will make no secret of the fact that I am now living on a pittance, and couldnt afford it anyway, I just dont know where or how people find the money to buy one. Let alone justify it. You may as well stand on a bridge and throw your money off into the wind. The depreciation and running costs are ridiculous to me, and NONE of them do anything more than my "old bangers". Might be quieter and maybe quicker but thats all.
As for the "environmentally friendly EV" Well, are you really taken in ? Its only another form of damage.
As for leasing, once you start, why would you want to pay whatever ad infinitum and once you dont or cant pay, you lose it ? Again to me its madness. At least what I do own, I can keep, and long as I discount the "metal collectors"
Cars hardly got sold for cash these days; It is all on either lease or personal Finance. Nobody can afford the purchase price outright basically. I think the electric car will just filter through through the usual channels of second hand cars. What is a shame is that the Tesla model 3 is not available as the base model in the UK. Cheapest one is just under 40K.
I see hydrogen as a good way to store electricity, but not much else. To convert electricity to hydrogen and back to electricity means you will loose 50% of energy.
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Awesome. The circlip is now much easier to access!
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Did you lob the diff case in half yet?
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Paint it orange and call it extreme.
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2 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
The Discovery in the article was being driven without insurance and the owner already had one Section 59 against him. There was concern as to the road worthiness of the vehicle as there is no way it would have passed an MOT emmisions test
This bit makes it a completely different story, shows how misleading these stories in the papers are.
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This story is the usual media hype, but was it seized because it was modified or because the driver was being anti social?
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Someone started the same project as me; Appears very cheap:
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I did the same with the crossmember moved upwards; one of the best mods on the chassis for off roading.
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Vapour 101 camper
in Military Forum
Posted
Found it for you mike, surely there is a misprint in the price though:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-Land-Rover-101-FC-radio-body-LHD-MOD-Rover-3-5-V8-engine-expedition-camper-/184993048124?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-127635-2958-0%2F16%3Fswd%3D13%26itm%3D184993048124%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252F1997-Land-Rover-101-FC-radio-body-LHD-MOD-Rover-3-5-V8-engine-expedition-camper-%252F184993048124%26user_name%3D%26spid%3D2349624%26mplxParams%3Duser_name%252Citm%252Cswd%252Cmpre%252C%26sojTags%3Dswd%253Dswd%252Cdu%253Dmpre%252Citm%253Ditm%252Cuser_name%253Duser_name%252Cspid%253Dspid%252Csuri%253Dsuri%252C%26srcrot%3D710-127635-2958-0%26rvr_id%3D3013435709157%26rvr_ts%3D3ba94d7a17b0a0a779924e27ffe622b6&fbclid=IwAR2_cojKzzV6NB9231wJmgTgg8iVnxxMDHGbWNUV1Nce5TZjpT9yAMmMRP4