Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I am pretty sure the 300 sits higher to clear the front axle in the forward position. A slight speedhump in the bonnet maybe?
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Hi
Ive been a member of this forum for a while but not posted.
I have a 2.4 2007 defender double cab which is having some engine issues, I just wondered if anyone could offer any advice.
The engine has had 2 DPF (sorry EGR as pointed out below) valves in less than 12000 miles and it has gone again, is it possible to remove it?
Also the engine has developed a rattle under load, its done 60,000 miles and has always been service on time, is this a common fault, can anything be done, im worried its going to self destruct.
It also stopped running four times in half an hour last week each time it lost all its power and stalled, then restarted a few minutes later, nearly called the AA but it cleared itself and got me home.
Any advice would be great.
Mark
I had a colleague who had the stalling problem, which was eventually located to air in the fuel, which entered via the fuel filter housing. A new housing solved the problem.
Daan
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Neat job. does the viscous fan fit?
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I bought a dewalt one, this one to be precise:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dewalt-DCF899P2-GB-Cordless-Brushless-Torque/dp/B00VXN829E
Very impressive, can get all 4 wheels on and off about ten times on a charge.
I'd say you get 38 diffs apart with one of these, especially since it comes with 2 batteries.
Daan
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Td5 cracks heads at around a 100 k, are flat as you like at low rpm and plenty of electronics. Ok it can go fast and revs, but for the original intention of a land rover, being a workhorse, it has to be a TDI: very good low down torque, fuel efficient and easy to maintain. 200 or 300 is just a detail.
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I agree that people are going to say it's garbage, which is a bit early because no one has seen or driven one.
a bit like saying top gear will be carp before you saw it.
You conservative bunch...
Daan (series 3s rule!)
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If it were me, I would make links with a spherical on one end and a rubber bush on the other, namely these:
www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-uniball-kit-package
www.polyperformance.com/synergy-dual-durometer-Teflon-ddt-lined-bushing-series
Rubber on one end would reduce the shock loading massively and still have enough angularity.
I cant see a johny joint being any better at wearing out when mud gets involved.
But what do I know about suspension?
Daan
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If you look at the sheer size of the johny joints and others, like trail gear etc. Compare that with a good quality rod end or spherical, and they are double the size for the same load rating. That plus you have about 10 different brands to choose from if you come to replace them. I'd say get proper rod end stuff and you have a better result.
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Knowing what the implications are of owning a land rover in Germany, France or Holland, I think there is only one possible answer to this question: get out at the earliest opportunity.
I shame I can't vote, but the fact that the UK is actually questioning the communistic EU system, makes people from other countries look green with envy.
I am an immigrant myself, so it is unfair to comment on the immigration subject. The EU needs the UK, not the other way round, so I reckon making a stand is needed.
I think a watered down version of the EU could work, whereby all countries work together on trade, but governments are free to rule their own country.
In the current situation, it is just not working.
My opinion, but I am just a Dutch refugee.....
Daan
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Got any links as I've not managed to find anything? I assume you're meaning the kind where a bearing is put in to allow the casing to twist?
http://www.bcbroncos.com/frontsusp1.html
Daan
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Remember that the rear most radius arm bolt is actually above the centre line of the axle so wouldn't be great with my available space for a link on top. So the lower links will be on some form of dropper or track rod guard type structure. The issue is also further reduced by having longer flatter links, the crossmember is likely to go over the links, in the standard place but also extend further back. I'm picturing the links ending up about somewhere inline with the front transferbox output?
No worries, but I'll explain
.... The radius arm design by its very nature restricts flex. I hadn't drilled the bushes before I took it apart but it didn't flex well, no radius arm does. To get decent flex out of the front the radius arms needed to go. Just running really soft front springs doesn't actually gain you any more flex as the restriction is still in the bushes at the axle end, and is just a sticking plaster for the real issue - the design. Running something like a 3 link/1 link/4 link setup means you can run the correct springs for the weight without sacrificing the flex. As you say its an all rounder.... true, but its got to do everything. As I mentioned at the top, when I want better handling on road etc I will be able to pop the radius arms back on and off I go . I will have my cake and eat it 
.Finally a radius arm bolt out is a truly horrible idea and leaves the axle flopping about on a pretty closely spaced set of fairly compliant bushings. I won't be going that route.
I reckon a hinged front axle case would work well in your application. It will give he same antidive but a lot of flex. Keeps the rest of the suspension nice and simple. I have never seen it done on a defender, but on pirate there are a few threads on this subject from people who did it on yank trucks.
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I do mean that yes. Also, I would use rubber bushes on 1 end, and rodends on the other. This will give you the best of both worlds. are you thinking of running the lowers inside the chassis rails to get more steering lock?
The whole shorter link at the top I think is all a bit overrated, At the end, if there is an engine in the way, you just end up fitting what you can. I would try to get the rollcentre pretty high, the front rollcentre lower then the rear and try to get reasonable anti dive. That said, if you use 0 offset at the chassis end, and use the standard radius arm mounts, your anti dive will be the same as with radius arms. Also, your prop angle will be very favourable. are you keeping the rear as is?
Daan
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1 comment:
If you use 0 mm separation at the chassis end, the 3 link will behave very similar to a 1 link.
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Use k-nuts; then you can use a ringspanner 11. Otherwise, I always use 14mm spanners. The prop nut socket has no use on my car, there is always a cross member or something else in the way.
Daan
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Auto: will eventually cook when pushed hard; needs a lot of cooling>power drain of engine. no tow start on auto.
Manual requires more skill and lower reduction ratio. if you want the most reliable solution for proper off roading, there is no other choice than a manual in my opinion.
Daan
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Is there a merc manual box available? I couldn't live with an autobox.
Daan
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The problem with using the 2.5 n/a bell housing is you cannot set the timing. This I know, because I have that bell housing also. I have a trick for this though. I cannot see the need to cut a hole to clear the crank seal, as the 200 and n/a has the same size crank seal journal.
daan
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I couldn't find a nissens landrover rad and time was short. The champion radiator place sold 841 of these. They have a 99.8% positive feedback. There are 3 complaints from the last 12 months of the supplier; 2 off complaints were that the radiators were not a genuine part, and 1 off said it was a bad fit (rover 75 air con condenser). Enough for me to decide they got my business. On the contrary, reading the feedback on those cheap Chinese welded ones is a rather grim comparison.
The rad fitted like a glove.
Daan
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You know you need a 200 bell house do you?
Daan
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yes.
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NO. I cannot paste from my work computer (no chrome I believe is the reason). Maybe someone else can. If you type in 300 tdi radiator on ebay, one advert appears of a radiator with a blue sign that says champion car radiators.
£78.59 with free delivery and brass plugs, its a winner I reckon.
Daan
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I bought a Champion radiator off ebay. This is the plastic core radiator. I has been brilliant, I have protected it with a punched stainless sheet sandwiched between the grille and the front panel. I was worried about reduced cooling, but with this rad, cooling was never a problem, even when half full of mud. Much recommended. they are 5 kg lighter than a copper rad.
I choose the champion one from the ebay feedback and feedback on landy forums; I couldn't find a bad word about it. The cheap Chinese ally rads do have a lot of bad feedback; late delivery, doesn't fit and leaks were their problems.
Daan
.... The radius arm design by its very nature restricts flex. I hadn't drilled the bushes before I took it apart but it didn't flex well, no radius arm does. To get decent flex out of the front the radius arms needed to go. Just running really soft front springs doesn't actually gain you any more flex as the restriction is still in the bushes at the axle end, and is just a sticking plaster for the real issue - the design. Running something like a 3 link/1 link/4 link setup means you can run the correct springs for the weight without sacrificing the flex. As you say its an all rounder.... true, but its got to do everything. As I mentioned at the top, when I want better handling on road etc I will be able to pop the radius arms back on and off I go 
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Diameter snorkel, pressure of VNT and lack of power
in International Forum
Posted
http://www.ppcages.com/?page_id=194
Daan