Monster

hi, As far as i understand it, the NA didnt have a heater plug relay. All the current went through the ignition switch. (Well my ExMod was this way). Because of the high current involved any sort of resistance would give problems. I solved this problem by wiring in a seperate high power relay directly from battery(Fused with a Maxifuse) and used the output from the ignition switch as a trigger for relay. Dont mean to be patronising but i take it you are holding the key turned onto the springy part of ignition switch slightly to heat plugs. (I didnt know anything about this for a long time so no bones there). All bits i got were from VWP. You will soon know when you got the plugs working as the NA will be so easy to start. Bet at the moment it is a real b!! Hope this helps.

Hi Guys, I have, after some time, fitted a SD roll bar into my Lightweight. It is currently just resting in there until i can finalise mounting points. It it the type that needs plates support welding to chassis. The rear mounts look relatively straight forward as far as i can tell but the front are a different story! Where I would like to weld in plates there is the rear feul tank outrigger on the outside. As my chassis is a Designa chassis, the inside of chassis is where the A frame support is! Also it is a galvanised chassis. I realise that many wont have the problem of the A Frame brace but did any of you have problems with the outrigger? (I would have thought that Series owners would have encountered a similar problem). I dont really want to get rid of my hoop and cant really move it back any further. I would definitely like to have the plates fitted. I am not planning any hardcore offroading but want the full protection it provides. Style of bar similar to pic below. Any ideas guys. I am stumped!! Cheers.

Hi, I rewired my Lightweight using the remains of one two Range Rover harness! They came with a nice blade fuse box also. There was enough fuseholders for all normal stuff along with acc such as fan/spots etc. If rewiring i would suggest a set of relays. For headlights dip/full, electric fan, horn to name a few! Buy some holders that can interlink and will make it nice and tidy. You can get the connectors to go with them to customise your install. The only problem with the RR fusebox is no available connectors are readily available.. that i know of. unlike that from Vehicle wiring products that use standard lucar crimps. I was able to remove the connectors from the fuse holder though and used a combination from a few harnesses. (Try get fuse/fusebox as close to battery as possible). The beauty with the RR harnes is that it had correct colour codes and weight/amperage that i was looking for. Get yourself a nice mulitmeter and a quality crimp tool. Worth the investment if you going down this road! You will need to check any used wiring before putting in cct though. Steer clear of wires that are black copper or stiff. Oh i also used recycled sleeving to fit cables in. DONT wrap cables in insulating tape! Good idea i know, nice and tidy today but nasty and sticky next week. If you need some more help give me a shout.

Nice. Its one of those tools that you dont need or see any worth of having.... until you need it for a specific job and makes an extremely frustrating job, as jaroslav is finding, quite easy. If you see what i mean. Pity other Landrover/aftermarket steering wheels dont have the bolt attatchment.

Do i have no choice but source axle shafts then? I thought the bolt pattern was the same for RR and 90. Maybe wrong just thought!

Careful with any hammering as you can damage the delicate bearing in the steering shaft. I actually used 3 holes. A bolt and nut for the middle one which took up the strain. Also my steering wheel had imperial thread, UNF i think. Close to metric but not quite right. Mind your jaw!! Leave the large nut loose as suggested. Cheers.

Hi Guys, I am planning to do the same thing. But my RR axle doesnt have any diff or drive shafts. Could i use the internals from the 90 axle? Or would there be issues with shaft length or other probs? (Complete axles are bit of a scarce item around here!) Cheers.

Did you check out the wiring diagram from http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiwiring.htm I cant really picture how you are currently wired but i tend to assume that white leads on a land rover is Switched 12V. ie comes off the ignition switch. Will have another think about and see if i can come up with something. Not really sure about the dash bit. Is this any help?

Is box useable? I am on the lookout for a 1.4 box if you selling up. Does it have a cross drilled gear? Cheers.

Hi, Ive got one of those cut out switches! Unfortunately its taken me two years to fit. In that time i lost the diagram and cant remember figure out how the alternator end bit is connected. Do you have a diagram that i could look at? (I have already hooked up battery part). Cheers for your help.

Is this what you are looking for? http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.com/page2.htm You could try modifying an old feul tank??? Cheers

hi there, check out enzorovers log. Real nice build. He removed the bulkhead in there somewhere. The write is very interesting also. Makes you want to go outside and start rebuilding your landrover right away! A real inspiration of what can be acheived. enzorover Cheers.

Hi there, I see that you guys talk about the Nanocom but which version do you have? The one advertised that i see is for the TD5 defender. Is this the version you are using on your discoverys? td5 checker Can you fit it and leave it on the dash? Anyone tried hooking up to their computer? Whats that like? How do i know if i am getting the latest generation. I saw something mentioned there are older versions knocking about on eblag. I just wondered before i bought the wrong version. I dont want to make another expensive decision! Thanks.

Hi Guys, I have just bought myself a Discovery TD5 Auto Air Suspension. I am new to this side of the water, being a hardcore defender/series buff! Was thinking of putting a lift kit on it. There dont seem to be many knocking about for the D2. Would a lift affect the ACE? Or would i need extension links? It seems the air bag sensor on the rear needs to be extended. I dont mind losing the air bags at the moment! I would like to fit bigger wheels. Possibly 265/75 16 or 265/70 16. Ideally i would like to fit 285/75 16 as I have some in the garage! Anyone done this? Would i need to cut wheelarches? Are they any aftermarket types of rims available for a D2 like that of the D1? Say modular or 8 spoke? Preferably i would like 16x8 and Steel. Or am i stuck with stock stuff? Any hardcore links that i could research before i contenplate this? Do i need to buy a Namco or is there a progam that i could run on my laptop? Cheers for any advice.

Very interesting. What did you do with the back door? Cheers.

Hi Guys, I have some Toyota car seats fitted to my 110. Only because that was what was available at the time. I have some XR3i seats fitted to my Lightweight! Unfortunately i have all sorts of problems trying to access my battery or storage boxes underneath. Do you encounter any of these problems? Wots your solution? This is the only reason i would ever refit the old LR items! I also agree they are over priced for what they are. Cheers.

Hi RJ, Work continuing on my conversion! Just thinking of a few things. I see you are using the standard radiator. Is this fine for service? Are you not planning to fit some sort of expansion bottle? If i do decide to go to the series radiator route i would like to include some sort of expansion bottle. Any ideas? Also how are you monitoring engine water temperature? I would have thought the the discovery sensor is not compatible with the series clocks.(AFAIK). My 3 in 1 clock also has a oil temperature gauge that i dont use but hope to wire up. Do you know what sensor goes with this? Havent really found much on the web.

Did you try and give them abit of a tune?

Hi, What year/original engine do you have/had fitted? I cant really picture what setup you have. I take it you mean the bit that is bolted under the steering box is the drop arm? This one?http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Steering/PAS_drop_arm_and_kit_for_3_and_4_bolt_box_RHD.html I fitted a 4 bolt pas box to my 110 and used the original drop arm as the new box i had didnt have any. (Original engine was a 2.5NA and fitted a 200tdi and upgraded to powersteering at the same time). Maybe worth doing the box bottom seal and ball joint at the same time. I understand the td5 droparm maybe different. Word of caution though!! When removing the drop arm it will be tight. Extremely tight. A hydraulic puller would normally be required. It is definitely not a job for the faint hearted. I like doing a few bits to my landy but this scares the hell out of me!!! It is on so tight. And when it lets go, it really lets go. Stand clear. Dont put your face or fingers or anything near. Read up about it first, maybe a job for your favourite landrover dealer? I also think you can only fit it back on one way. Cant you purchase the droparm seperately? I am really only guessing here, can you do a pic so i can see what you are talking about? Hope this helps.

Is it a defender 200tdi or discovery 200tditdi you have fitted? (These two have different hose/pipe fittings)

Hi there, Sorry for taking so long to get back to you, been rather busy! First of all, an auto box is very long. Extremely long in series terms! Even longer than a LT77 defender model. The series 4speed is a nice small compact unit. My hybrid had a V8 4speed auto BW transfer box. The front prop is approx 36" long and the rear is approx 15" short. (BW front props tend to be approx 2 inch longer than LT230) I believe that the series were both the same. I cant comment on the length of a series transfer box and ashcroft adapter plate but i wouldnt think it being too much shorter than a LT230. The auto looks nice and neat above floorboards but underneath a real beast! There is a thread on here where the guys told me how i could shorten my own props which was very handy. I can measure the length of auto box if you want as i have one on the floor right now! Hope this helps.

Definitely a fan of relays! Saves your switches as they dont have to carry so much current. Cables are shorter improving situation, can be individually fused. Wiring to steering switch can be so much smaller/neater. A relay can take 1000s of operations, cost a few pound. I am sure your steering switch would cost about 10 times that! Would recommend this route. With a bit of time and effort you will be rewarded with great lights. Doesnt have to cost alot. All modern vehicles use relays so you could possibly get them for pence from a scrappy. Maybe some thick cables robbed from a car could also be utilised. I run the crystal headlights from wipac. Another improvement. Few tips; Get yourself a quality crimper, forget cheapy versions. Also a nice multimeter would be a bonus. There are two versions of relays. Pin layout is different. A relay base makes it all neat and tidy. Check out Vehicle Wiring products website. Hope this helps!

Thanks Guys. Great help as usual. Think this is definitely the way to go!! Cheers.

Hi, Maybe better to post in Discovery section but i know many defenders are now 200tdi disco powered but here goes anyway! Just wondering if anyone has tried this? I seem to remember someone saying this would be a power increase. Would this be a bolt on mod? No modifications necessary? My purpose would be to swap around intake/outake. Would this affect engine powerband/delivery? I prefer 200 powerband over 300. (Probably only a mental thing..... ). Alternatively could a 200 disco turbo be swapped around? (Intake to rear, exhaust to front). Any thoughts or experiences? Cheers.

Hi, i am swaping from a auto to 5 speed and building up my clutch. Unfortunately i didnt order the clutch staple. It is a small plastic U piece that holds the release bearing to the clutch fork. Does anyone fit this? I would have thought it could run without it! Also forgot to get a push rod FRC3417. Does anyone know the length of rod it is? Maybe you have an old one knocking about you could measure? (For 4cyl 5speed LT77). Maybe one from another model could be fitted as a temporary measure until i get one? I know you probably say, just rush down to your local LR shop but unfortunately that is weeks away from me! Cheers for any advice/help.