ThreeSheds

No company gets it right all the time and we have all heard Paddock tales in the past I am sure, but to me what matters most is that when there is a problem it is corrected without fuss which they have done in this case.. So - to Paddocks: Well done! (But don't get complacent...) Maverik - I am sure that you intend to give this calliper a FULL inspection, but as a final proof might I suggest what I do? I will put 'workshop paper' (the blue tissue stuff) around any point that I have disturbed and then, with the engine running to provide vacuum, I press on the brake peddle very hard for a minute or so and then inspect the paper. It just sort of sets my mind at rest

Just thought I'd mention that I have a set of Paddocks cheapos and have had no trouble in two years of (admittedly fairly light) use. I am very happy with them.

TJ101 - hopefully all is sorted now and you had a great weekend! In case anyone else is looking - I thought I would post a photo of the wheelnut distributor replacement, and coil bracket on mine. I botched the mounting together from two Orion mounts which came with the coilpacks, and always intended to make something better one day, but so far I haven't got a round tuit The (visible) mounting bracket has a bracing strut at the rear.

<br><br>Excellent point! I will remember that argument

WRT the above - a couple of points if I may: 1. It is my understanding that the first line on the link: "Did you know that you are not insured when driving on illegal tyres? " is incorrect. On a radio prog a while ago a spokesman said that basic third-party cover would always apply even if the vehicle and or driving is illegal. Now I know that statement is no better than "My mate said", but that leads me on to point 2: 2. In spite of having the Greater Manchester Police logo on there, the web-site is commercial and is selling tyres. Finally - I firmly believe what Dave said is correct, however I would hate to have to stand up and have somebody ask me: "were you aware that the Range Rover official driver's manual states that "Fuel injected vehicles must be fitted with 'S' rated tyres"? Even though I believe I am legal if I stay within the rated limits, I hope I never have to test that in court!

No - the serp v8 has a much better oil pump arrangement with a direct drive, so all you need to do to free up the space is block the hole... You can peel the o-ring off the dizzy, slip it onto an RRC blind wheel nut and slip it in the hole with a bit of goo - then use the original clamp to hold it in - 2 minutes When I changed mine (1990 RRC) I put in a 96 Disco serp v8 and everything went straight in including main mountings - I did change the plenum and ram-stacks as mentioned earlier to get the extra vacuum take-ofs, although not necessary, just easier for me. Oh - one other thing - do the VR sensor bracket while the engine is on the bench if you can... Best of luck with the installation - you must be well on the way by now.. Roger

Wot HFH said. Another vote for serp - A belt change on serp is literally seconds with one spanner... Imagine doing a belt change on a v-belt ! If you need a 2nd alt, then you can use the A/C pump location to mount it. as mentioned, VR sensor bracket is different, but not a problem. Coil packs ok too if you make some space by removing the dizzy and blocking the hole with a RRC alloy style (blind) wheelnut with an the original o-ring over it, and the original clamp holding it. hope this helps

Not the same thing - the Maplin one is intended for points distributors..

I believe that the V8 and diesel auto boxes are valved differently so make sure you get the right one...

The only thing that occurs to me is that you are making the system reach a higher voltage before the arc commences, and I don't know why but I wonder if a snappier spark is helping - perhaps there is something that is leaking the charge away with the caps in place that doesn't get a chance when the cap is a little displaced? I will watch this thread with interest since I would love to know the definitive answer

By "it doesnt want to know." do you mean that it won't run at all or that it runs but poorly? I think that you need to forget the gas and just look at this as a petrol running problem. Of the top of my head: Only common system to LPG and petrol is the ignition so you are getting a spark, but LPG needs a different advance curve to petrol so if it is running well on gas odds are the advance is wrong for petrol. Other than that - anything to do with the petrol side of things could be the problem - blocked filter, old fuel, low pressure, kinked pipe, blocked injectors, non-functioning injectors etc etc etc. One more thing that just occurred to me - check that the gas is switching off when you select petrol. HTH Roger

very nice

Replacing one set of bearings cost me nigh-on £40 - at that rate I replaced only the one that needed it! The others I stripped, checked and re-assembled.

No guarantees, but I would be highly surprised if 1/2 a litre over caused any problems...

A couple of years ago somebody started listing my email address in ads on craigslist, and - although I think you are supposed to communicate through the facilities of craigslist, some people chose to email questions which of course came to me - along with some attached replies. Over a period of a few months this chap must have advertised hundreds of cars - all three to five thousand dollars below market and all very similar to the above in their general 'pitch' I emailed craigslist many times but it went on for months with me answering a dozen or more emails a day with a standard reply explaining the situation. I was amazed though, the number of apparently educated people who even consider this sort of cr@p. BTW - in all the time I was saving people I only got one 'thankyou' mail.

Wheel bearing?

Definitely the best option - although you may find that the thread is different - I'm not sure but I have a feeling that they are...

Agreed: Wheel bearing allowing the pads to be pushed back was my thought on reading this and after a recent experience. You need to take the half shaft and brake pads out to really check for play or roughness - mine felt fine (smooth when spun) but had several mm of play which did make the brake travel increase.

I wonder.... I don't think that your lambdas are doing anything useful at the moment - I think that the PO had a fundamental misunderstanding of how they work... You said when you introduced an air leak, that the reading went right down? So surely that means that the ECU is NOT compensating and correcting the mixture like it should if it was getting any meaningful information from the lambdas? As FF said, the two types of lambda are fundamentally different in their operation and to use a zirconia one in a titania circuit would require some pretty radical modifications to the electronics. Since yours are generating a voltage they are zirconia and will not give the 14CUX any useful information and may well generate a fault code if connected. Or are they really generating a voltage? Did you measure them while disconnected from the ECU? Could it be that you are reading an ECU supplied voltage? The tune resistor tells the ECU what the setup is and so if yours is the 'I have lambdas' (white) resistor it will be attempting to read the mixture and compensate, as opposed to running open-loop if the 'no lambdas fitted' (green) resistor is there, and so from the fact that you made such a nice 0.6v average - perhaps the PO was some kind of a wiz and he made the system work? Or perhaps it's actually running open-loop anyway (mine is open loop and does that). Personally I think that you need to do a little more checking: (a) Find the tune resistor and check what it is. (b) Disconnect one of the lambdas and (with the engine hot) put a volt-meter across it. You can totally disconnect it or leave just the heater wires connected, it doesn't matter since heaters are not required when the engine is hot. If you get a voltage flicking around between 0-1v then you have titania ones which will not work with a 14CUX. If you see no voltage then you have zirconia which are the correct ones for the 14CUX and should work if the correct tune resistor is fitted. Finally: There has been some discussion on this forum as to whether or not the 14CUX has a "limp home mode". Although there are several references to this on fairly reputable websites, I don't thing a definitive answer was found. Just in case there is a limp home mode than you might like to disconnect the battery for 15 seconds between testing as this will clear any fault codes. Hope this helps - sorry if all I have done is muddy the waters... Roger

I'd assumed it was a typo and meant to be bi-fuel...

Death traps? I only said that a toughened screen is not something I would like to sit behind! Having said that - I would like to comment on your statement that the toughened zone "will provide quite sufficient safety" if I may: I have smashed dozens of windscreens (I worked in a scrap yard in the 80s) and have seen the ease with which a toughened screen 'goes' (automatic centre-pop anyone?), and the difficulty of smashing a laminated one, they will crack for sure, but they don't craze and fall in your lap. And if you think that all those bits from a toughened screen don't contain any sharps you are completely wrong... Even during the 60's it was commonly known in the UK that there were serious 'drawbacks' to toughened glass and that laminated is better (laminated screens were optional extras available on mid sixties Mini Coopers for example), and a lot of upmarket cars used laminated screens as standard (Ford in America started using laminated screens in the twenties apparently!). So - plain glass=BAD, toughened=better, zone toughened=better still, laminated=best (for the moment...) We all have to accept compromises - we can't have the safest car that it is possible to build since it would be prohibitively expensive, so we make the most of what we can afford, and FOR ME, the cost of a laminated screen is something that I would be prepared to bear for my own peace of mind. Cheers, Roger p.s. The only benefit of having a toughened screen I can think of is if you (or someone else) is thrown through it - laminated glass is not at all nice in that situation. p.p.s. Sincere apologies for the thread hijack - I look forward to the next instalment of the project

What else would you advise?

Polarised light is affected by toughened glass, not sure of the science, but it results in rainbow effects which you can see in the reflections. Polarised light you may be thinking? Well light from the sky is polarised. So basically yes - you can see the zoned pattern in the pictures. These screens were referred to as 'Zone Toughened' since that are treated differently over a wide section in front of the eyes (which you can see in the photos) to make that section more likely to fall out, or stay in larger pieces, rather than just craze. The main problem with toughened glass is that a small stone hit in (say) a corner could craze out the whole thing resulting in zero visibility until you either punch it out or it falls out - hence the zoning which makes it more likely that you at least have a chance of seeing through it. Whether or not you can see through the glass bits in your eyes is another matter... As I said - a nice original touch, but not one that I would like to sit behind...

I used to work in the factory where they made those seats, and having watched people trimming them I would say it's not a job you should try unless you have: 1. A lot of patience 2. An industrial sewing machine 3. Strong hands with no joint problems In my humble opinion, I think that (depending on resources) the best approach would be to keep them as intact as possible (so that the way they are put together can be discerned) and to send them to a specialist... One thing I noticed this time looking through the pics, is that it still has a 'Toughened' windscreen - a nice original touch, but not something I would want in front of my eyes at 60mph on the motorway... I wonder what your decision will be? Roger

What do you think of the R90E - I am thinking of getting one for mine..