ThreeSheds

Never had a problem with leads crossing when using decent quality leads (which I am sure you will be doing)... Is this something I should be worried about? Roger

You should not drive with both free to rotate - it is possible that they will become jammed and unable to move as required for normal driving. It should always be one rotatable and one fixed.

Not all grease is waterproof - in fact not many are. I have been told by a normally reliable source that coating a bit of freshly sand-blasted steel with thin stripes of various greases and leaving it out in the rain for a few days will show that rust forms under the normal grease as air and water make it through. I was also told that waterproof grease is generally not as good as normal at the business of lubrication, although I would be surprised if it has clay in it... I use normal (moly) for lubrication where it is expected to stay dry, but waterproof for things like threads, door locks etc which are exposed. The JCB grease looks interesting - might be the best of both worlds...

I have read on radio forums, of RF affecting various (usually anciliary - like window opening) ECU functions on various cars but I must admit I didn't take too much notice. I believe that the best solution was to use a separate leisure battery for the radio and isolate it from the car when using the radio. Personally I have a direct connection (live and earth) to the main vehicle battery (fused on both sides as advised for all mobile installations) and have noticed no problems. However my ECU is so old and crude I doubt that it knows what RFI is! As mentioned above you can work the world on 25w and a leisure battery will last a long time driving that! Also it is unlikely that once you have, as my mother would say, 'had your fussy out', you will want to work HF mobile - more likely park up at some high point and see what you can manage with 5w and a long wire fence or somesutch Personally I have only once worked HF mobile as an experiment - a Dutch station on 20m, but I decided it's way too difficult tuning in while driving. Having said that I am about to enhance my mobile setup with an ATU and a mobile HF antenna but as I said - this is mainly for use parked up. The other thing to consider is that you really are rather limited on antenna options on a car and are usually stuck with vertical polarisation which, with the rest of the world using horizontal, will sometimes loose you 10dB or so both in and out... I hope that the above is of some help, but really your question would probably be better put on a radio amateur forum rather than here - still, nice to know that you are out there and hope to work you one day! 73 de m0xpt Roger

Nice post - we have all had things go wrong like that I am sure, but not all at once... Yeah - everybody does that one: At least once a year in my case...

Another vote for SP. I had a cheapo one but couldn't get a good flare, so I bought a mid range one which worked well normally but was a pig to use under the car, so then I got an SP hydraulic one and it's a dream! I have never yet produced anything except a perfect flare with that tool even when used in some very tight spaces

If people just reply to your email address, then this thread which will soon be buried... It needs to be active to get noticed So I would like to suggest that if people post pictures of recycled LRs here, I think it would get a lot more action and hence be seen more.. I for one will watch it... Roger

£13.90? I would get one from Maplins for about 13p... A ten second google found this which sound right: The Green tune resistor value is 470 Ohms, and White tune is 3900 Ohms. Ordinary 1/2 Watt resistors are just fine, although the original is a Metal Oxide 2% item (which I always use anyway). In this location I sometimes use a 1 Watt resistor, because the larger physical size makes them easier to handle. but I would check from other sources... HTH Roger

For those who come to this thread looking for the answer to "where to get bolts", I have always found that Namrick have a good range and quick delivery. Sometimes a bit expensive though... In terms of strength I don't know of any direct comparison between various grades of stainless and traditional HT bolts, but for an individual application it wouldn't be hard to get the information together (understanding it is another matter!). But I have always shied away from SS in 'heavy duty' situations, preferring as a general rule, to use 8.8 assembled with waterproof grease*. I would only use the stronger grades if some official source (LR Manual, the accessory manufacturer etc) required it (Or if some particular people who post here said it's a good idea... ) Roger * Waterproof grease (AKA "marine grease") is just that: A reasonable light-duty grease which will prevent corrosion. I was once told many years ago by somebody I trust (well I trust him in engineering terms - the person I'm not that keen on sacked me!) that most normal greases are not waterPROOF and will allow corrosion to occur beneath them, so in certain situations (chassis, running gear, some of the drive-train, body) I tend to use it on assembly rather than my once-time favourite, copper grease which, to be honest - I have never been too impressed with.

Thought of that - especially since it's a pickup and I could go OVER the lights... and My OCD has me aligning hex heads also

A nice bit of quality workmanship there - but for goodness sake man - if you are going to use cheese heads (which I like) you really should line up the slots in some way! I also have seen nothing to say that they are illegal and, although having had mine for a few years I think that I wouldn't do it again since they are a bit anti-social - mostly when in traffic in summer, next to someone with their window down, or crawling through a busy, narrow Scottish village when you realise that it's just nicely at baby-in-pram head height ! Roger

Where are you Karlos? Perhaps somebody on here would nip round and help?

So you've done it? Excellent! You should find I think, that the flapper will open up enough as soon as you start cranking... (I think that warrants an "oooh Matron" this time ) Roger

The wizard bloke made my spacers to order, and delivered in a couple of days! Excellent service!

Don't have time for a full reply, but a body lift has a couple of gotchas (seat belt strengtheners for one) but IS an easy enough job. you will need four axle stands and a good trolley jack and I am sure that the work is detailed on this forum somewhere.. You will need to replace the flexi brake an dclutch hoses and, in my opinion, at two inches you are getting rather too close for comfort to what the steering shaft (the one with the UJs in it) can accommodate, and your levers will be a bit short. You will also need to move the radiator, and extend or re-route the fuel hose to the engine,, the fuel filler pipe, and the vacuum hose to the servo etc etc - there are a lot of little jobs you need to think about... Basically anything which is chassis at one end and body at the other needs looking at. I thought long and hard about what lift to use on mine, and came up with 30mm as my perfect height (search the forum for Goldilocks ) and I can run 235.85s without problems under trimmed arches on standard suspension. Hope this helps Roger

I don't know Karlos' reasons, but (at the risk of triggering a flood of posts in defence of MS), the two things that occur to me are that MJ is less expensive and is easier to set up correctly... In my case I run on LPG 99% of the time so it's a no-brainer, but even if I was sticking with petrol, to me it seems a logical first step and - having tried to comprehend some of the posts and replies in this forum about setting up the fuel side of MS, I would feel more than a little daunted by the prospect. Back to the original post: I am confused by this 'relay' - it appears to take a pulsed signal along the white and blue wire, and is triggered by a vacuum switch... So what does the tach signal do? Is there some electronics in the relay? If the blue/white wire originally picked up the flyback voltage from the coil, then you would need to simulate that signal and the tach-out from either MJ or EDIS is not suitable, but the circuit you would need is shown on the MegaJolt website. Karlos - if you decide to go this route then I can post chapter and verse on the simplest way of doing it for a V8 14CUX setup - in fact I think I will do that on the MJ forum anyway since I know that the vagueness of the circuit at the link is a bit worrying (well it was for me anyway) Hope this helps

Don't know the over run relay - what was it connected to before MJ?

I use the same thing - but mine came with an aluminium extension (just a plain tube about 1/4" bore) which is hooked over at the end (I thinks is for watering hanging baskets). The hose is lone enough to have the (plenty large enough) tank alongside the car and I just hook it in, lie there all comfortable like, latch the valve open and wait. Quite relaxing really. And between uses the whole thing just sits in a corner waiting for checking/topup duty, still with a litre of so of ATF in it

Keep us informed... With photos if poss... I would like to know if it's an easy job cos if it is then I might do it too.

What I say below is about a 1990 RRC, but would probably be relevant at least to a degree... I run 235x85s and when I first fitted them there were two problems - first they hit the outside edge of the wheel arch (front and back) - so I trimmed those back; and second they hit under the inner wheel arch at the rear, so I decided to do a body lift. After much measuring and thinking I went for a 30mm lift - details here - and got lucky. Now nothing fouls and (IMHO) it looks just right. With regard to 275 tyres, they are a little less tall so clearance under the arches would't be a problem once you have the lift, however having looked at my tyres when fitted I believe that 275s would protrude beyond the standard body and would therefore need some kind of spat or arch extension. Hope this helps. Roger

Move all the plug leads round one position in the direction you want to turn it...

It seems that the consensus of those actually using MJ with single point LPG is that backfiring is not a problem if everything is set up and functioning correctly. <br> <div><img src="http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif" alt="" class="bbc_emoticon"></div>

Is there a reason why you cant just turn the dizzy until the timing is correct?...

1. Turn the engine forward until it is on compression on No 1 cylinder. 2. Keep moving it forward until your timing mark of choice lines up. 3. Place the dizzy back in the hole with the rotor pointing roughly where No 1 lead is on that diagram you have, and the body conveniently placed for pipes etc. 4. Note where the rotor arm is pointing. 5. Replace the cap and see if the rotor lines up with a terminal: 5.1. If it does then this is where No 1 lead goes and for all the rest follow the sequence in an earlier post. 5.2. If it doesn't then move the dizzy body until a terminal lines up and then do 5.1. 5. Use a strobe to set it properly. Roger

You logic is a little off (see below) since there are four coils on a 'jolted' V8, and the cylinders are sparked twice per cycle (once per revolution). But from personal experience, MegaJolt it brilliant with single point LPG... Just to expand on what I said above: Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and cylinders are fired in pairs as follows: As 1 is firing on compression before TDC, 6 is approaching TDC on the exhaust stroke and also fires similarly: 8, 5 4, 7 3, 2 6, 1 5, 8 7, 4 2, 3 Although the 'spare' spark is actually always going off during the exhaust stroke - the inlet valve may (depending on ignition advance) be starting to open when it does (the inlet valve starts to lift at 22deg BTDC on a standard 3.9 ), but the exhaust valve is still wide open and the speed of the gasses down the header may well even be creating a partial vacuum in the cylinder as the piston is slowing down. Also the energy expended in this 'spare' spark in that relatively low pressure environment will be well down on that of the 'main' spark, and these two taken together should mean that (if all other things are correctly adjusted) the chances of a backfire are significantly reduced. Certainly in my case, I have 'got away with it', in that I have have never knowingly had a backfire while using MegaJolt with single point LPG over the last four years. I would be very interested to hear of other peoples experiences with single point LPG and MegaJolt - does it cause more backfires than a dizzy setup? It's a valid point that needs addressing I think, since backfires can cause a lot of damage ... Roger