ThreeSheds

:) So - you tried your toys tools yet then?

The pictures are - as far as I can tell - exactly the same as mine. You should be able to just push the male coupling on the hose into the female on the compressor. When you push in far enough the sleeve on the female should snap forward and lock it in place. what happens when you try to connect - does it refuse to lock or what? TwoSheds

Doesn't matter about number - these things were just gathering dust anyway.... Sorry, I appear to have lost a couple... I have four males (two brass with tapered male thread and two steel with shorter (male) parallel threads and which had O rings - but only one has one now. I also have a female too with a tapered male thread. Funny thing is when I picked up the female, it had a male in it and I pulled on the sleeve et voila! It shot straight out! Anyway - pm me your address and I'll have them over to you in a jiffy TwoSheds

All the cheap value kit that I have bought in the past has had those fittings on.. I have changed them all for PCL for 2 reasons: 1. Places around here only have PCL, and 2. I don't know if it's me, but I can't seem to release those fittings one-handed like I can PCL.* TwoSheds. p.s. If anyone want some of those fittings I think I still have 5 or 6 in the garage... * After 35 years of doing it, I still find it amusing to 'shoot' the puffer onto the bench <heh heh>

kieselguhr or fuller's earth, I believe..

I tried this with a strap wrench and there was too much give and I couldn't hold it effectively, and you have two awkwardly placed tools trying to work in opposition in a very limited space... Might work with a chain-wrench but would still be awkward I fear... What he said /\ /\ TwoSheds

I thought that I posted on this a while ago, but b@ggered if I can find it! I made a tool to hold the pulley: a bit of 20mm angle iron, two 1/4 holdes to line up with the pulley mounting bolts and a cut-out to clear the body of the pulley. With this and the correct tool from Halfords it came straight off will minimal effort. Easy-peasy! TwoSheds

Don't know why, but for some reason the phrase 'full vessel pressure' makes me snigger

Sorry - I see what they mean now! There is a flat on the shaft and a nut - but on mine it's all been welded up and is hardly visible! The 45mm I was taking about it the cup that retains the ball in the cup... I REALLY hope you haven't already gone out and spent a fortune on a 45mm spanner...

If you are still there hold on a mo - I'll go out again - looks (on the diagram) like there may be another smaller nut!

Mine is 45mm across flats. I think that if I ever do remove mine I will do a proper job with a sparky-spanner The nut is only about 3mm deep - hardly the sort of thing you can get any decent torque on... Dunno about grease I'm afraid.

I'll be within reach of mine with a dial caliper at around 11am if you can wait that long.... Oh - and when I had a go at mine I couldn't undo it so I thought s@d it and left it on

Oh how I would love to do this. Do you think that I could get her to move that dang wedding by a few days? TwoSheds

Great idea whose time is come I'm in... Don't know if I'll be of much use though, since I only have a saloon available so nothing too big or oily please, and I don't do many longer journeys, although I do live very near the M62/M1 junction and go to central Leeds and pass by Maplins every day... So I guess that the following info would be useful: Location : LS26 Can relay from/to : Leeds (Central) (Working days) : MI Junctions 41 - 47 (Includes M62) (Evenings/weekends only) : M62 Junctions 28 - 32A (includes M1 and A1) (Evenings/weekends only) : A1(M) Junction 41 (M62) (Evenings/weekends only) Limitations : Saloon car only Additional Info : I am happy to act as an inter-relay depot, but large/messy components would need to be stored outside. The area is reasonably safe, but anything left would be at owners risk. TwoSheds

I think that may be a mis-print... the compressor looks identical to mine (which I paid £110 for least year) and which is supposed to produce (IIRC) 7.9cfm... Mine's ok (for example I have to keep 'resting' to let it catch up every few seconds with the windy ratchet), but I have often thought that another one in parallel would be great - at this cost it could almost be worth it... But not quite. Twosheds

This week I have used Vaseline (for fitting the fuel filler hose), KY Jelly (for fitting a water hose) and toothpaste (on a drill-press drive belt) .. and - watching an advertisement just now set me thinking... There must be a use for Polygrip Ultra, and probably for half a dozen other 'domestic' products... So enlighten me - what have you used for what..? TwoSheds p.s. Just remembered - in Egypt 25 years ago I used a Durex for petrol... But everyone knows that one

Done it and all is well... I split the pipe before the pump and it was only diesel in there so I then used a £15 drill pump to take out all the petrol (5ltrs per minute - not bad!). I found that in total I removed 48ltrs of fuel and at the garage I had put in 44ltrs meaning that I have 4ltrs of diesel mixed with 44ltrs of petrol in the RRC tank at the mo. When I dilute that out to 80ltrs it will only be about 5% so that will be fine. As for the Pug - I put 20ltrs of diesel in and pumped a 10 litres through to clear the pipework and put that back in the tank. Then - fingers crossed I reconnected everything and started it. After a few hiccups while it cleared air (I could see the bubbles going through the clear portion of the pipe) it cleared itself and now it is running fine. Big sigh of relief and what a pleasure to have motorised transport again instead of just the push-bike Better go shopping now I suppose... TTFN TwoSheds

Having driven a milk float I don't think that you would want to do that...

Oh, I like this thread with it's pinpong ball ideas thrown into the enamel bath of discussion... Some of them bounce right out it's true, but all are worth hearing and new (or re-hashed) ideas are surely to be encouraged? After all, struggling against LR inadequacies is what defines us - it's what we do.. Otherwise maybe we should all just go out an buy a Unimog instead? Asto_Al - no offence mate, but (I love that phrase ) I stopped drawing on squared paper even before I used to design tandem warheads for anti-tank missiles, and that was many years ago. Oh I know that warhead design isn't rocket science (we used to leave that to the lads down in 'Flight System And Propulsion'), but I do have enough 3D modeling capability in my head to see that my idea would increase, not reduce, the clearance under the diff (although I admit that the clearance under the axle tubes would be the same). I think that what we have here is a failure on my part to paint an accurate word-picture of the idea - and for that I apologise. Here is what I said: and I admit that my phraseology here is not the most elegant.. But I thought that it got the idea across. But here goes again: Imagine that the diff (the actual diff gears - not the axle) is fixed relative to the vehicle. Now - right next to the diff, put your drop-boxes arranged so that the half-shafts are moved down relative to the diff making (say) the bottom of the axle tube now line up with the bottom of the diff casing. By this means you have removed the lower bulge of the diff housing and increased clearance under the diff casing by 3"-4" relative to the wheels (which line up with the half-shafts). Of course since the suspension attaches to the axle tubes (which are now 3"-4" lower relative to the vehicle, you will need to fit 3"-4" lifted springs/shocks, thus lifting the vehicle relative to the wheels. So to summarise: The diff gears and vehicle stay in the same relative positions, the axle tubes, half-shafts, wheels and suspension move down relative to the diff casing and vehicle, and so clearance under the diff casing and vehicle is improved and at the same time you can introduce a reduction gear (or event a two speed axle) if you want. The only place that you don't gain is under the axle tubes where the clearance stays the same. TwoSheds Oh, By the way - I am not saying that this is a cost effective solution either for volume, limited or even home manufacture - it's just a thought experiment...

So we are after: 1) Speed reduction (so that we can fit big/huge tyres and still go slower than std). 2) Improved clearance under the diff. I did think of 3) Improved clearance under the chassis, but that can be achieved with big tyres... So I had a thought: How about putting the drop/reduction boxes next to the diff? This would effectively move the tubes down and remove the diff-bulge* (or move the diff up depending on your viewpoint. Only problems with this that I see are that you would have to fit seriously uprated half-shafts and CVs, but surely that sort of thing is easier than squeezing in the box outside the chrome balls? If you then fit longer springs/dampers so as to put the diff input flanges in the original position relative to the transfer box, you have effectively achieved your (my) goals above... Now whenever I do this sort of thing (have an idea) I think to myself that either somebody has done it already or it's got to be stupid. So.. Although I commend the idea to the Forum, I do it with Teflon hat, coat and running shoes on, and facing the other way... TwoSheds. p.s. If by any chance this IS a good idea and somebody makes a fortune from it, the usual fee applies - a free set for me *Of course some people might enjoy having a diff-bulge

Sorry if I mislead anybody - the seat-slides I used to make were NOTHING like those in the picture... What year are they? I am guessing quite early?

Good points... I had considered that the EGNOS sats would be low and hence difficult to 'see' reliably, but had assumed that the data they send would change only slowly and that an intermittent signal would still be enough to supply the required correction information. I guess overall I thought that with EGNOS available on some units and not on others, and with the prices so close, I may as well have it as not. I agree that I don't need and probably will not ever be able to use 2m accuracy, but it's still nice to have eh? As for the separate GPS and PDA - I have decided that this setup suits my lifestyle best (driving, walking and cycling will be the main uses) and it also gives me the chance to get a state of the art GPS receiver rather than just whatever the SatNav manufacturer happens to fit... On patch aerials I have had some difficulty cutting through the cr@p.. Some people claim that these things can 'see' well enough when in the glove-box, others that they need to be the right way up with a 60% view of the sky. I am thinking that the truth lies somewhere in between... I do know that a patch aerial combined with a SiRFIII chipset does give an amazing satellite pickup: My old basic GPS had to be outside with a damn good view of the sky to get a fix in five minutes - my mates TomTom gets a fix on my coffee table in seconds! TwoSheds

After doing some research I am now tending towards a PDA with TomTom software and perhaps MemoryMap when I can afford it, using a Bluetooth GPS mouse... And that, in it'self causes head scratching: Which is best: a 20 channel SiRF III with EGNOS or a 51 (or even 54) channel 'other' GPS with EGNOS? I am currently tending towards the SiRF ones... Can't see why you'd want 51 channels anyway - I don't think that there are that many satellites are there? I think that I definitely want EGNOS for improved accuracy, but that's available in both... TwoSheds

Brilliant! So... If you are only interested in doing one spaceframe I guess you might be selling it when you've finished? hmmm? TwoSheds

You could become an itinerant visiting cage builder Not related to one W. H. Robinson by any chance? Lovely piece of kit... If you are not going to use it for cages - may one ask what it is for? - since it has obviously taken some time, thought and effort to put together!... TwoSheds