Rangie46

Thanks guys, a friend at a hose company was supposed to sort this out for me but as usual has disappeared all weekend, so I popped into pirtek today expecting silly prices, told the guy what I need and that I'm paying cash, took my old pipe and the rr one and 20 mins later and 30nicker all sorted

Your not wrong there ff could be fun

Google blacksheep off road, a guy called Clive makes the best rear crossmembers around IMHO, tell him what you need and he'll fab one up and at a decent price and made out of nice thick steel instead of flimsy sheet metal.

We'll I'm getting close now to be knocking down Nige's door to get my ms kit :-) But have a question about what to do with the idle valve on the 4.0, I know if I went with ms2 it would control it, but as my mind is practically made up in that I'm going to go with one of Nige's kits, what do i do with it? Do I just bolt it back on and leave it be or do I make a plate and blank it over? Here's a few pics of it

Thanks fatboy Going to give them a call tomorrow see what they can do, if no joy ill pop down to pirtek

Cheers guys, steering box is a four bolt, 90 was originally 2.5 n/a doozel and pump is 4.0 p38 type,I have the p38 pipe to so looks like I'll take a trip to pertek and get them to join the two together once again cheers

Need to sort out the high pressure pas pipes on my v8 90 conversion, as the original 200tdi pipes don't work and neither do the p38 ones, do these run that high a pressure? As I was thinking of chopping both and using a hosetail connector to connect them together or do I go and get some made up from a specialist?

They made a right mess of that

+1 on the master and slave, I replaced the slave and two weeks later no fluid again now just changed the master, was leaking down behind pedals, replace both if you find the fluid has been disappearing.

quality,love it

I no I no the template was just so you can get an idea, mad tho you counted the teeth as I didn't ;-) I shall be seeing you soon, ordering all my rebuild parts next week, just waiting for the crank to come back from machine shop so I know what size bearing to order, really need to get rid of the oil burner as I'm seriously hating it right now.

I see just had a poke with my finger and the outer part has rubber in between so could cause some movement, was just thinking about easier ways, so on the lathe it shall go.

Prob been thinking to much as I have not built my 4.0 yet, but was thinking about when I install ms and I know Nige does a wheel for the 4.0/4.6 but requires the pulley to get put on a lathe, so was thinking about a ring gear type wheel that the end user would only need to drill and tap the pulley to fit the wheel, prob get a better idea from a pic as a pic can explain it better I made a template out of card so you can get the idea The for dots are where you would drill into the pulley and tap and bolt as shown here What do you guys think? obviously I would not be making these but I thought this may make the trigger wheel install on the 4.0/4.6 serp easier

Top job and great write up

He he my garage looks like a bombs hit it, been tripping up over all sorts but if I was to clean the garage I don't think I'll ever get my engine built:-)

Hmmmm fridge are you using idle control on the 4.0/4.6 setup ? Looks easy enough to graft the valve from the 3.9 to the 4.0 when comparing the two to each other

Thanks guys can started cleaning all the 3.9 bits next week ready to get cracking on wit the rebuild

Mud slingers

Currently rebuilding my gems 4.0 that's going to get megasquirt, but I also have the complete intake and plenum from my other 3.9 hot wire as well, so what top end would be best to use? The 4.0 gems intake looks better IMHO but what is best for use with ms

I like these Mud wipes

It's a conspiracy, there in no global warming, it's just an excuse for the governments to tax the a**e off us.

Top man just what I was looking for thanks mate

The gearbox I have is from a discovery but is going in a defender soon

Hope you guys can help looking for the part nos for a v8 lt77s clutch fork, slave cylinder and rod thingy( best way I can describe it)

Had the same issue myself and was the slave cylinder leaking into the bell housing and then getting burnt off by clutch no signs of fluid on the ground, you defo have a leak somewhere, if it where me for good measure I would replace master and slave as they are not that expensive.