Rangie46

Happy happy days she is alive and I've got a grin like a Cheshire Cat, Nigel a big big thank you, I will update my build thread with a vid of it running when the rain stops as I just had enough time to bed in the cam before the heavens opened, once again can't thank you all enough

Cheers ff, I'm just so nervous about plugging in the ecu and it going pop again, I've checked and checked and then checked again all my wirring and I'm pretty sure it's bang on to Nigel's diagram, suppose I'll just have to pray to the v8 gods and cross all me fingers and toes that it all goes well.

Spoke to Nige today and ecu is repaired but we don't know what caused it to blow, so again I have been out regoing over my wiring as I am now afraid to plug the ecu back in when it returns and have it go pop again, so I have been looking for shorts again and have come across this and not sure if I should be getting this, across the blue/pink wire and the slate/orange I'm getting 14v? These are at the ecu end where the d37 plug goes And again with blue/pink and blue/ yellow This is without the ign switched on, as soon as I pull the relays out the voltage goes away.

Defo check the rubber half moon on the rear rocker cover gasket they always leak as well as the front one too

Any news yet Nige?

Agree with the above, but if your box you have has worn splines and clunking, you can get a disco r380 and Ashcroft trans do a conversion kit to change it to defender spec.

Cheers ff i did follow Nigel's diagram, I just noticed the difference on diagrams when searching the web, think I'm going to finish off egg sauce now while I wait for Nige to come back with what blew in the ecu

Only engine earth strap was forgot, edis, fp, lambada heater earth all go back to batt neg, ecu has 4 earths going back to batt neg and all sensor earths go back to ecu, just tested edis powered up using Nigel's diagnostic sheet and that's coming out. Fine so I can rule that out, this is proper driving me dolally tap, was hoping to find something a miss so I could say to myself there you go you thwack that's where you have gone wrong, but can't seam to find anything, one thing I have come across is on the diagram pin 3 from edis (pink wire) saw goes to pin 36 at ecu but on other diagrams on t interweb pin 3 goes to pin 30 at ecu but i soppose that dosent matter as the edis receives a 5v from ecu on saw I'm sure once Nige finds out what I fryed on the ecu that will tell us where the fault is.

Been going thru everything as it's been doing me nut in as I can't seam to find anything wrong, but today I found I had forgot to attach the engine to chassis earth strap could this have caused my problem?

Righty o some pics of the loom Dsub that I cut off

Cheers guys ecu is back with Nigel so can't get any pics of it, hopefully they will be able to figure out what blew, that should tell us where the fault was, I will try and get a pic of the dsub connector, I cut this off yesterday as I have a feeling that was the fault area as it was really tight getting the connector cover on and I have a new one to fit ,Nige sent me the diagnostics doc yesterday and all my wirring is coming up with the correct voltages

cheers ff was using the diode test to check for shorts but tbh not sure if that is the correct way, is there a better way? ecu started smoking as soon as i tuned on the ign but fuel pump came on then went off, so i tuned off ign and unplugged the connector from ecu, then called nige I don't have pwm valve or a relay board, using the relay blocks that come in the kit, i have wired the connector for pwm but not connected the ign live for it as I dont have one yet, nigel went over the connections with me on the phone and they are correct, today I have cut off the ecu connector as this was a bit fiddly to solder, and going to resolder a new one using a big magnifying glass, as a friend told me It could have been something simple like a bit of wire strand from wire striping getting stuck on the pins or a bit of solder, had a look but cant see anything but suppose best to be safe.

Guys hope you can help on this one as it has me and Nigel stumped, Ecu is back with Nigel and we are hoping it can be repaired, we have gone through my connections and they all come up correct, I have triple checked my wiring against the diagram and all is correct, we first suspected I had wired the fuel pump relay wrong but we have checked this and all is correct, so I pulled all the connectors of engine and started testing for shorts using the diode test on my tester, everything comes up ok except, when I test the plugs to the coil packs, I get resistance from the white/ purple wire to the brown/white, brown/orange, brown/green and brown/ black then if I remove the edis earth wire from its ground the resistance goes away here's a pic showing the resistance, should we be getting resistance?

I know this has been done to death but there lies the prob, so many differing opinions on the interweb, I'm nearly done with fitting the ms on my newly built 4.0, which has got me thinking about what oil to use to run in and running in procedure, do I go with an expensive running in oil ( like millners) then once run in go with valvoline vr1 or do I just chuck in some cheap 20/50 from the local motor factors and run in on that, then the running in procedure so many different opinions what do you guys recommend?

Thanks ff, I'm slowly getting there, also my ecu has a tach output and says js0 - spr1, so I take it tachometer goes to spr1 and in the software settings set tach output to js0 and I'm all good

Just started on the loom and I have a question re earths, where does the earth for the edis go? Does it go back to ecu same as mat and cts or does it earth direct to battery?

Cheers guys, managed to come up with this Used some bottom plates off nige and the old RR coil pack mount

As Nigel says, I looked at all the options for my 4.0 but decided that nigel deals with v8s and could supply me a turnkey solution, rather than an ecu that I had to program ( it's not easy ) and then find all the parts to go with it, for ease and simplicity just get a kit from Nigel, he will supply everything you need and a fully programmed ecu to suit your engine and full instructions and support for fitting, Nigel is a top bloke and you won't go wrong buying from him.

Thought it best to put the ms install here as it's the proper section and is a carry on from my build thread in the members section which can be found here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86540 So picked all my kit up from Nigel the other day, top bloke who explained everything so hopefully this should be a breeze, so first was the crank sensor so tdc set and fit, went like clockwork Next coil packs, as my originals are shot I went with a set of ford coilacks and new lead kit, but needed to make some kind of mount, so a few shots of what I came up with Painted and fitted Coil packs fitted And that's as far as I got this weekend

We'll I popped over to see Nigel yesterday and picked up my kit for my 4.0, was nice to finally meet you Nige, my little lad could not wait to get home and start fitting it, managed to set tdc today and mount the vr sensor, anyhow what I'm asking is if you kind peeps would post a pic or two of how you mounted your coil packs, so I can get some ideas as the 4.0 is a bit of a pain and room is at a premium and I went with a pair of ford coil packs as my originals are fubared, thanks in advance guys Will start a build thread soon to carry on from my build thread in the members section.

Glad the rain held off as it would not have been nice, managed to get me replacement door and got a Donaldson 2 stage defender 300tdi air filter for 15 quid, wished I had a bigger motor with me as I could have spent loads of money there.

You can use curtain wire for a liner on small hobby welder's, same dia and a lot better than the plastic liner, works a treat did it on my sip and made the wire feed nice and smooth, cheap as chips to

I'll be going, as the door lock on the 90 jammed on me today and I lost me temper and hit it with the club hammer now I need a whole new door and gubbins doh, sometimes I think I'll never get the v8 running:-)

^^^ I agree with that you'll also prob find that the fan is hardly on as the 200 tdi I rarely gets hot

As above most welding suppliers will sell you a reg for around 50 nicker and you'll need a push fit adapter to connect to welder here's a we pic of mine so you know what your after