mikey7134

Am i right in thinking that a standard Series 3's ID Plate is stamped at a recommended towing capacity of 2 tonnes? And therefore the machine was designed to tow this weight continually with no issues (obviously can tow more, due to a, probable, generous factor of safety)...? Mine (SWB) is rated at 4 tonnes : So, would that mean an up-rated gearbox / halfshafts, etc, capable of towing this larger weight continually? Any thoughts appreciated, Cheers

IIRC, PC USB sockets are 5v @ 0.5 Amp, and a mains charger will put out 1 Amp - this is how your phone tells if it's connected to a PC, or just a charger. Obviously will charge quicker @ the 1 Amp. Just something to bear in mind if making your own.

Does anyone have the internal diameter of the rubber type reinforced hose used as fuel lines? And know where i could buy it in few meter lengths? I want to trim it as needed, and just jubilee clip friction fittings inside it. Cheers

My insurance was cheaper to insure with the car valued at what i paid for it (so what it would cost me to replace), than say, what it's worth now/what i would get if i sold it. Dunno insurers points of view (who does, to be fair :S ), but the way i see it is, in my car (bought for 5k), i look after it and drive it more carefully than i would, say, in the farm Pug 205 - a very cheap car, meaning you can overlook the odd dent etc..(None of them done by me, may i add ) So i s'pose insurers think the same, that little prangs will be ignored,..... so they expect a big prang at some point?!..

Yeah, sorry, should have been clearer. The pump to tank return line - the fitting where the return line connects, is also banjo'ed to the leak off line, which is why i had said that - apologies. What do you mean by dead headed? I had looked at a de-aerating filter to go in place of the standard filter, tee-ing the return into this, with the thoughts that it would get around the twin change over issue, and the air in the line issue, and also generally help keep the line air free, if, say, it has been sat for a little while.. What would be your thoughts on this? In the mean time, i'll start trawling t'interweb for a twin x-over tap. Cheers

Dual tanks, with just the one x-over tap.. To save having to plumb in and mechanically link another tap so they change at the same time...

Quick question. Is it possible to tee the leak off (return line) from Inj pump into the filter, to be circulated back into pump, without going to tank first? Or would lift pump pressure / return pressures fight against each other? Cheers

I THINK red diesel blocking filters quicker is due to them trying to make it environmentally friendly-er.. They've reduced the sulphur levels, in favour of some living bacteria type thing that is less polluting. This, when not used for a period of time, will settle leaving water at the bottom of the tank, where carp will grow, blocking the filters quicker. ...So why doesn't it happen with white diesel aswell..? White diesel has a higher level of sulphur than red - Reason for this being (again, I think) that the majority of things that run red diesel are generators / tractors, whose engines are not as fussy as a modern car engines about a little bit of impurities.

Cheers. Is there a filler point for hubs? Or is it fill / half fill with oil when assembling, and hope it dont leak out? I realise it may be a bad move, but am going to leave the bearings for now.. (Landy is costing enough already :/) and when they start to go i will change them. Instead of changing now and scrapping bearings which may have a lot of life left.. It has only done 50,000 miles anyway.

I've got seals and seal retainers. Just wondering if they'd seal if I varnished the balls.

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but i have a few small pits..It is possible to clean these up, and just varnish the pits? - I think i read somewhere.. If oil leaks then could use that One-shot grease? Or would i be wasting my time with varnish?

I know there is "axle seals" available, but wondered which ones were for which part of the axle... I've done the diff ones, But, ive got a black dusty/oily layer inside the brake drums, and also my hub caps had a small puddle of oil in (they're not supposed to are they?). Which part numbers do i want for seals to cure all these leaks.? I imagine fronts should be similar, if not the same..? Also, would you reccomend replacing bearings while im in there? They do not feel worn, but is it worth doing? Cheers

Ah right. Got'cha. Cheers. Just on the getting bushes in at the minute.. Off to buy polyureathane ones first thing 2moro. Got the front two longer ones in, but when trying to get the back ones in i suffered 2 casualtys (2 g-clamps) as well as 3 bushes :/ Best go vent my anger in some panel beating or something useful

I take it 1-tonne shackles are longer? Would you recommend these as a matter of course?

Cheers chaps. I think i will start with 2 at the front and just better shocks, then if need be, go Nick's route of adding a leaf from another set, to save changing the chassis length / drilling holes. I suppose you needed 2 more springs to take one leaf from each? Or just 1 spring with each leaf from that either side?

Looks very well like that I think i will stick to the 2 leaf fronts and 3 rears, and possibly just fab some new shock mounts for longer shocks. Cheers

How did you get a rear spring to fit at the front?

Ideal, cheers. Ill get creative.

Came to change my seals today. Rear one was fine, and looked the same as the replacement i've got, and changed it fine with the inner lip flush with the casing so it doesn't get crushed the pinion flange bracket-y doo-dah. When i came to do the front, i assumed it would be the same, but the seal has a metal 'washer' on top the seal, and doesnt have the raised inner lip (it may have under the metal washer, but couldn't get it out). Is this a different style seal that it could have been replaced with in the past? Or is it supposed to be like this? Ill try get a picture up. Cheers

Just thought 2 inch lift would look sweet. But better to have a good long lasting comfy and effective shock, than 2 inches Would you think these are okay? Which is the +2 part? I know discomikey has standard shocks with his parabolics, and has no problems (i think) so the above so can only get more comfortable. Cheers

The springs i were looking at were from MailOrder 4x4 ... Bearmech . ?!? It was the ES3000's i had looked at. - What problems have you found with these? The Monroes are same price as Pro Comps - just not the 'extra long'....

Would parabolics alter insurance?

Would para's work okay with standard shocks....? My shocks are shot and need replacing... Also, my leafs are fairly rusty, but still seem solid. Although, on one of the rear springs, the 2nd from the bottom leaf is cracket in 2 places - *read snapped* - either side of the flat central bolt area. Ive been quoted £210 for 4 para's (SWB Series 3). Does this seem reasonable? And shocks wise, i suppose it'd be reccomended to upgrade..? I can get shocks from same place as para's for extra £130, but also seen on Paddocks, the Pro-Comp ones for about £100 for 4. Pro-Comp ones being "extra long". Does this seem reasonable prices? And would the extra long ones help lift it more? (Been told para's will lift it about 1 - 2 " ).. Cheers

Can't help im afraid, but have you got a part number for the glazing kit? Is it this.. http://www.paddockspares.com/lr34a-door-top-aluminium-glazing-kit.html ? Should there not be rubber seals etc aswell? Thanks