steve_a

Zeus timing gears, no, can't mention that, it could rival the scorpion thread check out the 1974 revision date, my work mates have some seriously old carp in thier cupboards.

As promised, the Zeus engineering handbook in PDF format. It is a bit of a size, 16mb, but will take less time to download than it took for me to upload! here it is... I'd appreciate it if someone else could host it too to spread the bandwidth, but since my data space doesn't get used much I'm not too bothered. The only change from the real thing was I deleted the log and sine tables

Power steering pump for defender 200tdi probably a pair of series doors, the passenger door can be folded in half on the 90 where the frame snapped. window/door channel maybe some winch web for use as an extension A winch mount cradle thingy perhaps probably some ex military tat a bit of recovery stuff If any one is after a series 3 gearbox on a try and buy basis then I have one in Fareham, hants. I've decided it needs to go, that space can be took up by other tat

bum. Took the block to engineering place today and it looks like we would need to take it to 030 to be certain, the coke ring was not a coke ring, it was wear in the bore. So I guess we will start looking at the 2.5NA, first step is to look at getting it started on the engine stand so we can see what it runs like. Need to look for some information on the conversion, at the moment a new engine mount is needed, but I don't know about clutch, and flywheel. We will probably need to use the starter motor from the series, are the flywheels the same, or will we have to change that? I'm hoping we don't end up at plan C or even D(for dismantle), she's a nice old girl and I don't want to strip her for parts (although I was going to do that originally). We may have a 2.25 older style head which appears in decent condition, a crank and some other bits and bobs from the 2.25 if anyone is looking for bits. Won't be certain they are free until we check the 2.5.

you may have been able to tighten up with a spanner, but the fact you were able to get it out with one is a sign they weren't torqued proper IMHO. I think it is about 81Nm for those bolts, a bit of a strain in the confined area with a torque wrench, let alone with a spanner. Hey Mike - sounds a weird size, the defender ones I've used a 13mm socket on (incorrectly, that was what rounded the heads off after a few goes) but a 1/2" is a tight fit (which is what I use now). Although I guess that might fit in with the sizes. I replaced all 4 on the front and kept the 2 decent ones as spares because of the pain and grief of not having one if needed.

From the looks of the picture the caliper bolt head is rounded (I know it's a star design!) which means they probably couldn't torque it up correctly. Thing is, those bolts are a PITA to get, I know, I spent a week and half waiting in Jan, so the ***** have probably just done them as tight as they could. Local dealer down here didn't keep any caliper bolts in stock either, which surprised and worried me! I'm starting to wait for a good week with my land rover

Well I always disliked the paint it orange charge double for it gits in the past, I'll be making a point, no matter how much I might want something, of not buying from scrapiron now. XEng and Gon2Far et al. Probably cheaper, certainly better and I can feel I am supporting others who are trying to make a go of something they enjoy. They were presumably already making a good deal on mark up of the XEng kit anyway, so why they've decided to do this baffles me. Will this thread get to the length of Zeus timing gear vs Richard Turner?

Looks like an excellent Gizzit at Sodbury...

Just trying to sort out glow plugs. The ones we pulled are the pigtail ones, and in my ignorance I ordered the same set of glow plugs as for my last series. However the ones that arrived were too small a diameter for the head. From the parts manual it appears that 568335 are the pigtail ones, and that ERC8450 are the bulb type ones. I guess we can just do a like for like and order the older type in (the ebay seller LRSeries (gb7916) is happy to return and send the right ones). How would we use the newer type? Helicoil the head or something? The vehicle is about a 1981, so I'm surprised it doesn't have the later head, however, with the damage to the pistons from broken rings etc I think it may have been swapped for a good older one. Certainly the valve guides are nice and tight and the valve stem seals were only on thier way to being mistaken for a metal part... I was also looking at the crank bearing bolts - £12 each! I think we may skip that part of the replacement parts, since that would be £150 just by themselves. Makes me wonder about looking at the 2.5 we had with it, the bellhousing has a missing part, but it looks like we could just bolt our 2.25 housing straight on if needed, which might mean the starter motor will work too.

Are you sure about that western? I haven't manually turned my 200TDi but the 2.25s you can feel the compression, you have to bump over it on the starting handle, I think the 2.5 in the garage is the same. I'd expect to feel resistance building up, from my admitedly limited experience. Air coming from the pump is probably the feul return line? It's not that difficult to start the engine outside of the car for a diesel, all you need is a bit of 12 volt to the injector pump you can probably skip the glow plugs, only when it's really cold are they needed. And a jerry can of diesel and then 12 volts to the starter motor Of course you will need to strap it down some how otherwise I think you might find it will flip over or some other varient! jerry can->feul filter->normal feul stuff->return pipe to jerry can or bucket 12volts->injector pump solendoid (pull wire to kill engine) ->heavy duty connections to starter motor ->light line to starter soleniod, momentary contact to spin starter. It might take a bit to bleed the feul through, never done a 200TDi, but the hand pump is probabably a good start and then you might just get away with cranking it to bleed through the injector pump and injectors.

So who went past in a green (I think) doublecab with a roll cage? but no soft back or anything today then? Had a <rubbish> day kind of cheered me up that someone took the time to beep and say hello as I sat in Fareham traffic on the A32 near Quay lane roundabout. And since I've been arsed to put a new topic for such a dumb reason, I'll continue in the same vein... Anyone know anything about the guy on Fareham Road (A32) half way down the hill past the bus depot on left, and before the pylon and industrial estate on left. He currently has 2 ropy looking series 2's (I think) in his garden, but did work for a while on a RR bobtail, with a roll cage in red. I bumped into him on pigeon house lane on a rainy day when I had my series and passed a few words, waited to see if he made it across the deep ford (I'd just come through and it was quite high, diesel was fine, but I was impressed his V8 made it across). He seemed to disappear shortly after, his RR had xmas tinsel on it from Dec to about July when it disappeared. any one know who I'm talking about? I was a bit concerned since he just disappeared and it looked like he lived alone. Steve

hmmm, You've got me wondering now, I assumed that the oversize element was the rings (since they sell oversize rings seperately) not the actual pistons (I have an old salt in the office with me who was leading me to this assumption when we were chatting). If the pistons are oversize by that amount then we'll be screwed. I will contact paddocks to check availability of everything, I was thinking I needed to do that anyway as I can't remember what the gasket set comes with, we need to do all the crank seals and I don't know if it came with them (I've had a set before but let most of it go since I only needed a few parts of it). I'll have to look at reexamining the sizes if what you say is the case, we'd like to avoid a machining just on cost grounds. We bought the truck for £300, everything was in good shape apart from a really smoky engine, we are trying to spend <£300 on parts (agreed project cost with the other halves:) ) to get a S3 that will probably be worth about £1500 we reckon. We are trying to avoid skimping on anything important so we have a good vehicle in the end, but the plan is to sell it fairly soon afterwards. BTW whereabouts in Fareham are you? if you feel like proffering some advice... SimonB will probably be giving us some stick about short cuts as well since we work with him.

my poor late night typing les, we have measured the bore as best (we popped a ring below the coke and used a mic to measure that diameter and then measured the ring width), it came out IIRC at 90.63mm so we believe the pistons are standard size, but have been replaced before. Paddocks sell rings in oversize to make up the difference, going up in 010, which I belive is give or take 0.02mm. So what I meant to say was we are going to get the standard size pistons with the oversize rings, and if the ring clearance is below what we can have we will just trim the ends a bit. The current gap was about 2mm on the rings, ROM says it should 0.25-0.38mm (2nd ring as it happened) so no wonder the starting was lousy. It's good to hear that the bearing shells do seem to wear more on the lower side - I can see it happening, but still surprised.

Well after a bit of effort and a lot more time than hoped, we have finally reached the time where we are starting to put the series 3 back together. At the moment we have the roof off, and the engine is basically in complete pieces. We needed to do the rear crank seal and after taking it apart it is clear we need to replace bearings on crank too. Is it normal for the lower shells to wear more than the upper? all the lower shells showed copper, but the upper looked OK. I know the crank is not exactly light, so I guess I can understand this. So after tonight we shall start reassembling the thing. Feels good to have gone as far as you can in breaking apart the engine, if I see an advert stating rear crank done I will have a lot of respect for them, this thing is WORK! First order to Paddocks goes off tomorrow I think, new 050 Pistons w/ rings, we tried our best to measure the bore past the lip of coke, and the best we can come up with is we need oversize, so we have decided to go for the largest and and we can trim the rings down if need to. Those 2.25 engines are tough little buggers, 2 pistons with broken rings, one of those had loads of gak in the inlet valve, the butterfly valvle was badly adjusted starving ti of air, a glow plug had gone (series wiring) which meant it wasn't preheating and all the shells were worn. At least we are going from desctruction to construction now!

I got given a Zeus table the other day - would anyone be interested in me getting it scanned and posting in PDF? Drilling is subject close to my heart since I appear to be so poor at it, I think I lack patience, and possibly a good drill, but I think the former is the main problem!

Having had a little look at mine there is no obvious way of refurbing it. The front has a cage bearing - probably be able to find the right size once took apart, however there is no obvious way to split the case. Flushing it through I guess could be done by disconnecting the right hose from the resevoir and fitting a big bucket of fluid instead, and another bucket to the other pipe, would presumably pump all the fluid through and you could stop when happy. If anyone is interested I will take some pictures of the pump when I can strip it (i.e. when I have another and don't need it for reference).

I've not had much luck keeping my bearings tight using the torque method, and as I don't have a DTI there is another simpler way. Put the wheel back on and then tighten the nut until the play is removed from the wheel, you can get a LOT more leverage when the wheel is back on to determine if the free play has gone. I figure that if it's too tight with no or little play in the wheel then I'm in trouble no matter what, but that being too loose will also be a problem - so lesser of two evils for me. Agree about the removal of the inner seal, wish I had done the front ones, however the bronze bush needs to come out first I believe. Hopefully any gack getting is diluted enough to cause no problems and that regular oil changes will be done anyway.

Thanks, looks like I will be on the look out for a defender NA/TD/200TDi or disco 1 200TDi pump only then. I think I know a place pretty local which will make pipes if needed, but if I can just get a straight swap it would be ideal. I guess if I had a bunch of pumps in my hand I could make some of the others sit in the right place, but it would mean getting custom pipes - which may mean hassles later if one splits, it won't be a quick or easy fix.

My pump threw it's hand in last night (fluid all over the bay...) so I'm looking for a replacement. The TD and 200TDi pumps appear the same so they will fit without mods from the look of it - anyone know what else will fit without major pain and grief? The set up at the moment is the standard 200tdi really short belt running from the crank, no seperate tensioner etc. On the same subject - should I just bin the old pump or is it worth looking a refurb? Paddock sell a kit for <£5, but the bearing has gone on the front at least so I would be looking at quite a few other parts. Finally - steering is V heavy without the pump (even once moving), any tips for making it easier for the time being, I was wondering about draining the system (well emptying out what was left!)

Looks like a standard rear x member replacement with a hole cut in it. Then a plate added to hold the winch http://www.paddockspares.com/products.asp?...ntions%20-%2090 for an example picture. Difficult to say say from the pictures but it doesn't look like the the plate holding the winch is that thick. However as you say for £400 for a new rear x member and a winch (looks like a KEW or TMAX) it doesn't seem bad value - even if you need to strengthen the mounting up afterwards. Of course if the winch is pants, it's an expensive new rear x member

I fitted 2 new ES9000 today to the rear, one had sheared at the top ring mounting. I also added some drop mounting plates since I was there. I was thinking about the whole extended bump stop thing while doing it, however on the front of the box it has a picture stating that there is an internal bump stop. As an aside, if you plan on removing those rear top shock mounts, put aside a bit of time, mine had probably been on since 1986, and were unkeen to come off. Even once off the bolts had rust welded in. Took a bit of hammering to get it free, my thumb is showing the pain of that as the nail turns gently black. Hijacking even further - the shock that snapped doesn't extend by itself, but the weld on the top mount looks a bit weak to me, I expected to see a roll of weld all the way around, however it looks like a friction weld or something. If I put it back together as a spare I wonder if it will be stronger than a new one?

Some images from where I was marshalling- This punch seemed to cause a lot of problems if you tried it the "easy" way, none of the trees were strong enough for winching, but people tried anyway, even after being told! Easy way was to use the second vehicle as the ground anchor and winch over the mound, one team apparently managed it in just 5 minutes. Also were we nearly had a serious incident - a wire winch line broke and the tree it was using came out of the ground at the same time. I think we have some footage of that. Sadly, looks like someone cheated to get punch 15, cut the tape and sawed a branch off... Disappointing Glad you had a good time, some excellent driving, good spirits and finally impressive bodge repair work. 10 minutes before end team tried punch 15, as they entered his wheel came off, massive credit, they managed to get a couple of wheel nuts back on and get back to parking area, I think they got 2nd or 3rd.

Well, helped with the setting out today - so if you want some inside knowledge then I could be open for bribes. Give me a nod when you see me I should be over on the A27 bank

Not convinced by that, isn't the largest selling 4x4 the ford f150? I seem to remember some Clarkson thing, however the cheap one they tend to sell is actually only rear wheel drive. maybe I'm just being a pedant, I think it might mean SUV - which is anything large enough to escpape the emission tests over there

Michele, are you going to slindon tomorrow with Nige for the setting out? If so I should see you there, otherwise see you (and the others from here) on Sunday. I plan to be stern but fair Steve