steve_a

second that, simonb might give a more elequont explanation, but diode pack is duff, less than £10 for one IIRC

Well, got the box in today, really dirty so still have the trim to put in tomorrow morning. In the end I made an alignment tool, pictures and explanation follow. Job on the Discover series 1 is pretty much the same as Les' post for Freeagents motor, but the earlier trim is a bit easier to remove all the skirts up - you can see the 2 screw holes at the front that have to be removed close up of those two rear bit has 4 screws to remove thought that was all, but a sneaky one is under the electric controls the controls seem to be able to slide towards the handbrake for removal, no screws on this model AFAIK/can see This is where it gets more painful. The disco 1 has a central gearbox mount As far as I can see you will have remove the cross member to allow the box to drop to get to that top nut on the bell housing. I jacked the box up with the crane after undoing the nylock centre of that picture, one at the rear too. This is a central bar doofer for holding the mount to the cross member. I then undid the 5 (!) bolts on each side holding the cross member and moved it out. After lowering I could get the top nut undone, I went through the tunnel from inside, it was V tight, and this was the only place I could get enough turn on it. If you have good quality UJs for your sockets then you might fare better, but most of my rotation space was gone after the slack was took up. I then moved the box away and put a new release bearing in. I wasn't changing anything else as I think the box is a bit end of life and everything else appears fine. I may regret it in a few months, but who knows, I bought the car for £500 with the bearing whine and aim to run it till end of MoT and then see where it is going. Had the rear strap not snapped it probably would have been an 'easy' job to realign the box and bolt back up, but because it did I had a real problem sorting out the rotation of the box, the transfer box as noted causing the bugger to rotate badly. I came up with this: It is just a bit shorter than the cross member which meant is sits easily between the chassis legs and did a VERY good job of aligning the box, it almost jumped on this morning (well that is probably a bit of an exaggeration!). It cost about £15 to make, buying a decent box section from B&Q and some thick bar. If I made another I would: 1) make the end pieces longer - they were only just the right length 2) make the bottom bits non existant - I realised as I was working that if another strap snapped I was looking at a real injury! 3) make it a bit stronger, it flexed, but that could be my pants welder(ing) 4) try and get some plates for the end rather that bit of bar as it would have helped alignment in two planes then. I'd suggest making one of these if you have a D1 box to do, Looking at the 90 the side mounts on the LT77 on that look like they do a similar job if you have them on the box when putting it into position. Thanks for the positive comments, really thought this one had me beat and was getting close to throwing my toys from the pram, along with lots of stress of new job monday, away from home etc etc I was close to a matchbox and rag solution

What about attacking the bolts that hold the stub axle on from inside the hub assembly (pitman arm thingy), you might save the hub assembly and the hub and just lose the stub axle? If you have a dremel you could cut the excess of and then try drilling out the remains. sounds a carp job, but I think trying to save the pitman arm bit should be high on your list. A new hub is about £40, stub axle about £20 or something, I'm not sure how easy it will be to get a new pitman thingy... FRC4320 - stub axle FRC6139 - hub FTC3308 - swivel pin housing right hand FTC3309 - " " " left hand for reference, although there are quite a few varients on all those, but for pricing up it might be worthwhile

thanks all, Les - no, clutch was left in place, don't believe it will have moved, the splines had engaged, I could no longer move a drive flange (well no more than all the slack). Good point about the rod, don't think that had got caught. I think it was the studs at the top just missing the holes, I tightened the bottom ones and hoped that with a bit of jiggling and kicking that they might have popped in. I also tried to remove the top stud at end of play yesterday, the one on the bottom I did a quick test on did move, the one at the top wouldn't - typical. Seems the advice is that it can be a b****d and I should just give it another try when I get back. At least I don't feel such a failure now - everyone always say "oh, yea, just drop the box off and ... " I think those of the words of someone who hasn't done it from my experience so far. Worst bit is I need to do the defender in the next few months, at least there is more space on the 90 and I won't use such a pathetic strap.

warning: this post has everything, love, intrigue, horror, technical content, humor and humility. The release bearing went from annoying hum/whine/whistle to screechy/metally/graunchy on Saturday (good timing, it was supposed to ferry me to Malvern today (Tuesday) ). So I thought I'd better bite the bullet and change it. Armed with HBOL, RAVE (D2 only it seems) and several other manuals, plus Les' great tech articles I waded in. All was going well, different than freeagents disco, his was an R380, minor differences on taking the console out, took some pictures, then to the underneath. off with front exhaust section (flange captive bolts sheared, not a surprise), out with slave cylinder (push rod still has clip, good sign I thought), disconnect fan shroud. Got the engine crane out, looked in truck, took a few ratchet straps out, then spotted my heavy heavy duty one, bit of overkill, but what the hell, lets use that as the main one and then one of the cheap ones as the rear one. knock up a lifting point for the PTO cover, fits nicely cool. Now to the actual gbox removal, well slip back, as all I plan on doing is just replacing the release bearing at first go as the gbox will probably be junk within the next 12 months judging by the clunks and mainshaft debris. HMMM.... HBOL not too helpful, as piccies don't match and the description seems wrong. The D1 LT77 has a central cross member with a single mounting. Hmmm, undo the two bolts and have the missus crank the crane, it lifts. hurrah. Ok, undo all the bottom bolts, and work around undoing all the others, we get a bit of seperation, not enough. hmmm. FFS, there is a nut up top that is unreachable with the x member in place, the gbox is not low enough, never will be low enough. I needed the workout, I'm not thin, so it's fine, with my new hernia supporting the chassis, I get the x member out. At last, the gbox drops enough to get access and she's free. Bits of pushing and pulling and old bearing comes off, looks scabby, sounds scabby, is scabby. New one goes on looks lovely, sounds lovely, is lovely. So now I start to haul on the box to get it back in position. "that was quite a loud noise, what was it and why is the handbrake drum crushing my knee?" I ask calmly through the transmission tunnel cover of my wife. "the strap snapped on the back, are you alright?". This made perfect sense of why I had quite a big weight crushing my knee, which seemed to be getting heavier by the moment, everytime I shifted it got a bit heavier, so i thought I'd just stay still for a moment and let the wife get the axle stand or one of the jacks. I must say that Gillian, my wife, looked a bit unnerved by this turn of events, and was somewhat flustered as she tried to help. BRRRRAAAAPPP, SCREEEEECH. Ahh good, my neighbours subaru has arrived I think. I can get a little assistance. "All right mate, still at it, can't get you out from under that thing can we?" he hasn't actually looked underneath, so is unaware that if he had, this would have been a great line, as it was I got the line. "no, you can't, at least not at the moment, couldn't get the jack for me could you, I'm being crushed by the gearbox at the mo." His head appears with a grin, which rapidly disappears as he realises that far from my usual sarcasm, I am telling the truth for a change. A few moments later I extracated with just a few creases on my knee thankfully. Boy was I glad I decided on overkill for the other strap otherwise I think it may been a bit more painful. Anyway, we crack on and attach 2 of the (in my new opinion) pitifully too weak straps and set about trying to line the box up again. Just wouldn't go. Decided to sleep on it (plus it was getting late). New plan of attack, problem is because the box has rotated, so spend the first bit relining it up, a great tip if you take a box off is to put an alignment mark on the bellhousing and flywheel cover, in my case it would have made a real difference and saved a lot of guessing. Also picked up some m10 rod, cut to size, slotted etc 4 off. fit the studs to the flywheel cover in lowest 4 holes. We got the box onto the studs and tightened them a bit, box came a bit better together. Kept going, but it was only coming together at the bottom. short version (since not so exciting this bit) is that the box goes almost on, but the top half will not pop onto the studs, worse, it didn't want to come apart either. Lots of tugging swearing and I managed to get it apart. This time I try a jack under the crank wheel to point the engine back, but the box has rotated again so just can't seem to align it. Had to give up for a few days as I have to go to Malvern tomorrow, but I am really starting to wonder if I can get it to work, I am sure I am missing something. So any advice on getting the box back in place, I was thinking: 1) align the box as much as possible. 2) fit a strap to allow someone to rotate a bit more as needed 3) jack front of engine to point downwards 4) put studs on engine 5) try and align and get in place again. On the other hand if someone wants to earn some beer tokens in the fareham/gosport area I am more than happy to stump up, I really want the car working again for next Monday (31st) as I start my new job in Malvern and want it for commuting daily and back home to Gosport weekly.

I keep forgetting, but paddocks have a small bit of text saying that you should ring for small parts as they can do cheaper postage, the internet system always add the same p&p otherwise. For a relay then it would probably be worth it. On the other hand, I'd suspect that a single relay is used for both sides, so if one side only is flashing faster have you defintely checked all the lights are working? Usually, because hte load is changed by a bulb going the indicators flash faster, also gives you a hint a bulb has gone. Having said that the LR wiring is sometimes non-intuative and I could well be wrong.

swivel pin top and bottom, or chalice bolts followed by the swivel pin will enable you to get the drive shaft and CV out of the way. you will also have all the bits that will be scrap or you can save in an 'easy' to manage lump which you can attack in a vice.

tricky, good old angle grinder isn't gonna get in there and you can't get in to undo the stub axle either. You might try drilling the race a bunch of times. it may well then break up, you could even drill the stub axle I guess. It does sound like the whole hub assembly is going to have to come off so you can get the driveshaft out of the way in any case. Once off you might be able to abuse the stub axle and free the race. Might be a cost vs time thing. Final suggestion, if you can move the race about 1cm off you could probably get a hacksaw down the back and cut the stub axle off? Or take to hub assembly with hub to a garage for some tender loving care from an oxy kit?

"ahh go on, be my winch biatch, I already have the comedy winch, I need a clown to go with it" or "you don't even need to connect it, it weighs so much that it distorts the gravity around it moving the world forward around you" or " would you move that winch, I'm trying to get a suntan over here and it's causing an eclipse" now I know why that winch is not advertised on the front of a landy, it's huge, probably need to reinforce the chassis, not coz of the pull, but because it will droop otherwise.

hmmm, now I'm confused bishbosh profile says he's from western super mare, but I was in bognor regis on saturday and at about 3pm I saw discovery with "bish bosh 4x4 racing" go across the roundabout in front of me. I commented to the wife that I thought it was someone from the forum. does bish bosh have a doppleganger, an impersonator or just a weird co-incidence. ????

i remember that as a kid, dob of jan 1973. Don't think I was a member but rember that and the stupid cat that caused fires

surely QQ invented heat, heatwaves etc guess which side of the fence I work on... QQ newsgroups, what is it up to now, talk30 or something ?

storm steering guard take a close look at the picture and see if you notice what I did. Not a good advert picture for the item!

I run without the cowling or a viscous unit, never *noticed* any difference at low speeds. The cowling is a bit of a pants design around the intercooler anyway, I would certainly expect the intercooler to perform better at speed without it as the flow through should be a lot better. I did toy with putting on some extra fans for the intercooler, couldn't do just one fan for rad and intercooler coz of the pipework, but a couple of 5" fans might do the job with a manual control for when to turn them on. That would defintely be better than the cowling. Other thing is having ditched the cowling so many jobs are easier now that I couldn't put it back on or I'd go mad.

From a buyer and seller stand point I think disclosing the reserve is a non-issue. Ebay in thier wisdom do not increase or inform a seller of the max bid that was placed on item, for an auction with reserve it means that if the bidding doesn't get above the reserve it won't move to the highest. An example: item starts at 99p with reserve of £50 buyer bids £48 as that is what he thinks it is worth, high bid is now 99p another buyer comes in and bids £30, max bid is now £31. auction ends, you don't sell the item and the buyer doesn't get it, but you may have been happy to accept £48 and the buyer should have been happy to pay £48. If ebay had an option to disclose max bid or something it might have made another sale. If you put the reserve in then bidders know that is what you are willing to let it go at and perhaps won't be a few pennies or pounds off, I often bid things like 25.99 or 26.01 as technique, but that kind of thing might been I don't hit a reserve.

I am 70% sure it is ATF, it's dirty coloured when it comes out from dust etc in bellhousing, but it doesn't feel like engine oil and doesn't smell like it. Apart from no drop in clutch fluid I would have thought it was dot 3. There was some clutch slip after changing the slave, however it disappeared as soon as I put some free play in the pedal. I've just popped the wading plug back in and I'll see if I can get decent amount (and also see how much) it is leaking this week. If I manage to get a decent amount of it I can pop an old glove in it and see if it disolves, if so it is ATF. Clutch is only about 3 years old, but it has probably had a hard life, I've it some stick over the last year and a half at least.

Anyone know if this is a common or even likely fault? I have a drip drip drip from my bellhousing, pretty sure it is ATF as clutch fluid is not reducing at all and master and slave cylinders are new last november. I do have some clutch slip which is the second part of the question, I am assuming at the moment that the clutch slip is because of contamination, but despite a few attempts at 'burning' off any oil I am having no luck and it is looking like a gearbox out job for the clutch. Is it all co-incidence and I haven't set the slave correctly in some way which is causing the slip and the slight leak is nothing to worry about? I have free play at the top of the clutch pedal so I can only assume it is fully engaged, or should I crack the bleed screw and see the slave is not fully disengaged. Can't figure out why the oil seal would decide to go on the front, I have checked the breatther and it seems ok at the moment.

I guess making your own square silencer is a bit easier than a round one? What do you fill the silencer with, just glass fibre? I've got to remake my side exit exhaust at some point (after the other 99 things)

The mature part of me says that it is wrong. The other 99% says "coooool". Had a few cars that I would have liked to have done that to. I was gonna check the reg with DVLA and see if it had any comments, L316 MAV, but thier website is down.

Are you gonna do anything about the loose nut behind the wheel? The extra heat was probably from the sweat popping out of me I had my head out of the RR and was saying the RR owner "do you wanna get in and do thisssssss arghhhhh ". A few moments later it was ok, we'd stopped, travelled about 3 foot back and 6 foot right, least not much sand came in the window.. I'll get the pictures off the wifes phone later..

I really do wonder if this is a LR publicity stunt. Timing is very suss, "Freelander 2, better than the court proven FL1" There's no such thing as bad publicity.

it was quantity of posts... perhaps not quality.. :-p PS invastion - I use both hands and all fingers to type, so sometimes I don't pay that much attention to if I got an extra letter or two... That's value for money, you got an extra T at no expense

it's an orrp invastion... you've not told landy boy where this place have you.. orrp lurker..

I work with Simon, so I can confirm it's not his day job, at least not before about 1500 anyway :-p BTW Simon really does do all the work stated, I know he had me help get a bearing off, and I am running a alt that Simon rebuilt last year after it seized. I see Simons advert the same as if Nige offered to make some radius arm washers, ground anchor or something for parts + labour + beer.

thanks for that, I wondered if the large screws were what were stopping me form getting it out. I was so full of oil having done the oil change on the defender and also accidentally draining the gearbox that I couldn't be bothered going to the workshop to look at the manual. I'm worried that it may be supporting gunk .