steve_a

I have a spare pump in the shed for free. collecting it is an issue at the moment as the shed is in Gosport and I'm not... it also leaks around the stop and throttle shafts, so would need O rings, so it would be a repair and then straight replace. bit on the heavy side to post

what a stonking idea bill. I want to do the tappets on my 195K mile disco, but I was so used to the starter dog on the old series I kept on putting it off as I couldn't think of an easy way to get the valves moving. As another comment, a mate gave me a special tappet tool which clicks for each thousand of an inch or something. You tighten it down and then back off the right number of clicks (5 for a series and probably a TDi) then lock it off. On older motors you have have slight bell worn on the faces of the push rod/rocker contact which mean you aren't setting the gap as close as it should. Although noting Les uses the gap between spring, don't know if that would suffer the same problem.

Wheres the picture from after the fire, my garage doesn't look far different from that... bad luck mate

I was trying to avoid a debate about cost... anyway me == messenger !shoot I think a lot of 4x4 stuff is interestingly priced... but I'm a tight git.

Just to add Devon 4x4 have these over at http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=prod...amp;product=236 At £225 probably a wee bit too expensive for me at the moment, I have lots of other things on the 90 and disco I will spend money on.

Usual opinion would be if it happens at full lock the CV's are suspect. worth checking the diff lock, sounds stupid, but if you have that in then wind up will occur and bangs will come in, esp when cornering. the light for the diff lock might have gone and you still have the lever over. sounds insulting I know, but better checking the simple stuff than stripping the CVs out to look at them. If it is the CVs then AFAIK you just have to take it/them out and see if they are bad, not much else to check. you might try jacking each front wheel and spinning while on lock to see if you feel any problems

I've pretty much had to adjust my bearings on a running basis. Big tyres and stuff can make it more likley. there is also an element of bedding in IME, try setting the tightness with the wheel back on - that has really cut down on my needing to do them.

spare undies if Nige is recovering you ;-) I carry way too much in the 90 - socket kit, my spanners, torque wrnch, hub nut socket, hammers of course, grease gun, wheel bearings, track rod & tres, belts. when i am going somwhere, spare cv and loads of other carp. seriously the 90 went much better when i cleared the back out one week

David, no way are those lower nuts going to vibrate loose! pig of a job to get the bloody thing off on all the ones I have done. This new one was a pig and I copper slipped it in feb.. So washers at top now correct, and bottom washers are wrong on replacement side?

Simon, is that in the before or after pictures? I am assuming it is the before so the washers should something like: )--(-#- Any idea about the bottom ones, I swapped the lower ones on the one I replaced to make the same kind of pattern on the bushes.

If you aren't sure it woud probably be better to go for a 300tdi as the R380 is more likely to be in a good state. the 200s had LT77 which may or may not have been modified to not kill the o/p shaft. I have a 200 with an LT77 and it's pretty clunky and I expect the box to die sooner rather than later - but it was v cheap purchase. There is loads of advice about how to assess the wear, but I think unless you have seen a good one and a bad one it is pretty difficult to tell, there are a lot of places for slop in the drive train - o/p shaft, centre diff, prop shafts, axle diffs, drive flanges. So tieing the clunk down to the gbox is not straight forward IMHO.

OK - some pictures to make it all worthwhile. Unbroken side before any changes broken side as found after getting home Unbroken side after taking advice and switching the washer around, does make sense I think was broken side with spare shock - which had broken in same place in same way on same side - which has been welded all around eye and also a line through centre (thank god you can't see the picture of that bit of welding!) I also swapped the bottom while I was there, working on the theory mentioned but getting the broken one off was so much fun I couldn't bothered to do the other side at the moment, so it still has the washers this way around Ok, on to the broken shock. top of shocks piston looks like this The eye looks like this I may have other things wrong, but I am sure that the amount and depth of weld seems poor, but I wouldn't confess to being an expert.

microcat lists 2 possible CVs for that chassis number STC 3046 10 SPLINE STC 3051 24 SPLINE From a further quick look only 24 spline are fitted to ABS equipped vehicles. so if you have ABS then 3051 would appear to be the one, otherwise I think you will have to pull it apart to check, not sure the number of splines at the drive flange end is different for the interior splines. Best advice I could give is if you don't have ABS is to pull a rear shaft, simple and easy to do, and assume that the number of diff splines is the same front and rear. Not 100% guarenteed but probably a high indicator.

Maybe I am being unfair, but if the top eye on the procomp was welded all around it would have loads more strength from my limited knowledge. The standard welding is a pretty small area from what I can see, don't even know how the do it, a friction weld or something? The glance I had at the shock it looked v clean on the eye. I am going to get it off and take some pics tomorrow. I am a bit abusive on the suspension set up - procomps are supposed to have a built in bump stop and I have 2" droppers on the back, so I have left the standard bump stops on. I figured if it exploded it served me right and I would buy some new ones, but the shock is still good, it's stuck up against the floor pan at the mo as it still expands! Maybe I am expecting too much, and I need to look at lessening the forces, however I will be interested to see if my mended one lasts longer than my new one - and my welding is pants!

Took part in the mini challenge with HBRO today and probably the first major outing for the 90 since I put some new pro-comps on in Jan/Feb. The previous rear shock had snapped off at the top eye, but I more put it down to age and rust etc at the time, they were about 2-3 years old. Checked the truck over when I got home and the new one has snapped in exactly the same place. I have yet to have a look at it in detail, but first glance the welding looks pants. luckily I still have the receipt and I also have my repaired shock from before (I welding all around rather than what ever pro-comp are doing). Do you reckon paddocks/pro-comp will replace it, or preferably replace both as I like to have them of the same age, although they are so new in this case it probably doesn't matter.

I wouldn't like to be one of his customers in the coming weeks, I would hope that the coppers have a chat to all his buyers and see if any of the items are tracable to other stolen vehicles. Seems strange he should have such a good description yet not know it is stolen - doesn't pan out for me.

A bloody good point though in any case is that there was no serial number on the tyres - I might have quick peek at mine the garage. For any Quality Assured company I would assume serial number marking would me, perhaps not mandatory, but the only way that you meet QA standards for tracking and recall. The engineer may have ommitted tyres pressures as this could have been modified after removal, I couldn't testify, if I was doing the same statement, about the tyre pressure as was used, only perhaps that this is what it was when examined and this is what is reported by the user. Not that much use. I'd be very interested in learning how this all turns out as I have just asked for a new grizzly claw to be sent through to me. I wore the tread of 2 new ones due to a bad (very bad!) setting on my track rod. However they have not failed. I have always heard the grizzly claws are batch orientated, a few months ago a group of us did a run to germany and a 90 was running them. We kept seeing the lugs come off on the motorway, which might be related to the kind of stress he is talking about.

I've just got back - it was rubbish. oh wait, you're all talking about the show. I am lodging up there at the moment and travlled back tonight - saw a few motors heading, ignorant b*******ds didn't wave back just coz I was in the bog standard disco. hope you all have a good time, I'm just glad to be back for a long weekend at home, do some work on the 90 and go to the HBRO summer rally instead.

Is there a specific link Les, or did you just use one of the contact options? I couldn't see any 4x4 discussion articles when I just looked.

useful link, I may have to do that job, along with the sills. However am I reading it wrong or did he rivet his seatbelt mounts on? EEEK!

When I fitted some retracatbles to my S3 truck cab I put the roll bit in the uprights and fitted the rest to the place where the static belt already attached. Some pictures if it helps, not very good quality and I only have them on the server as it was some time ago. Once fitted the belts did pass an MOT in two different garages. this is probably the best picture. you have to cut out a bit of the bracket so the roll up bit can poke through, a bit of gentle drilling for the nut as well. hardest bit is poking the nut up behind the bracket and getting the bolt in, pretty fiddly but doable.

travelling from Malvern on the M5 down to J13 I thought the freelander a few cars back looked different. I let it past and sure enough there was a LR2 on UK roads on trade plates. I asked the wife to snap some shots on her camera phone Rear shot, impressive eh. I zoomed up to him to get a side shot now, you might think that looks like a bedford rascal. But bear in mind my wife took this shot as I travelled along side him at approx the speed limit so you should look at the orange front at side. Sadly I couldn't get any more pictures as our junction was coming and the wife had the hump with my demands to take pictures.... BTW it really was a Freelander 2, looked quite nice, ground clearance looked good and it looked expensive. I thought it was another 6 weeks before they were on UK roads?

Have a look here for some information when I was looking at the subject a few months ago http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4828

should have said, carried out a full on bleeding of it, nothing doing. Pedal is firm but still not disengaging the clutch enough. Doesn't help that it seems the disco resevoir is tiny. X member would be best solution, but I had to beat mine in and out with hammer and jack, hence why my aligner was a few mil shy of the width of the x member size. Thought the wiring had been stoofed as you said, I have just been introduced to disco bulkhead wiring sockets - phew! EDIT: arghhh changed both the slave and master today, clutch was still dragging. Got peed off with it so dropped it into high box while in first and dragging and drove round the block giving it a bit of abuse. Got onto the decent length of road and gave the b*tch a good bit of clutch slip, I figures I might wear off the excess and it went to totally fine. Quick discussion in work has me thinking that the plate had stuck onto the flywheel, and all it needed was a bit of abuse and it would have been fine. Master cylinder on a disco is a PITA as well, stupid no access, wrong side resevoir, elongating of holes for feul filter, clevis pin with nut not clip arse. However to top that off, my CC has been scammed so I had to cancel it and now can't go up because I can't pay any bills while I am away.... life sucks

Bad form replying back to my own post - but got all the trim back in today and the beast still fights me. Battery dead. Nasty jump leads means it takes ages to jump start. Try to engage a gear and it won't go in. Try reverse and it grates badly. :( Looks like the slave has gone now :-# . FFS! I only took it out and put it to one side and for this it thanks me by not going the full distance so it won't fully disengage the clutch. Can put it in 1st while transfer is in neutral, then drop transfer into low or high and it will creep forward. Standing in front it can be stopped, so the plate may just be touching.. So a quick trip to brooklyn4x4 in the morning for a slave and see if it will finally get back on the road, only about 2 hours before I really need it.