Bowie69

FF had me confused on this one too, I know we had the choice when MJing a friends 4-cylinder Mazda engine, at which point I doubted myself and though it might be that it was just on EDIS4 and not on EDIS8.... Phew, not going as mad as quickly as I thought I was

Yep, horrible job I guess you found the specially hardened rivets then! TBH, it is the way to do it, means you will have no alignment issues with just a tiny amount of measuring

There's a specific tach output on the EDIS module as well as on the MJ ECU, I would be trying one of those TBH, I know a friend of mine is using the MJ tach output to directly drive the input to his LPG switch etc, works fine.

WELL, you say that... but.... I spoke to a company that do a chain and sprocket conversion for the Borg Warner box, which drops the gearing in both low and high by around 25%. About £600 from memory. It's quite a well known company, I've just got a mental block atm

Good job You taking the tub off to fit it, or removing the floor?

If it was anything like my lightweights crossmember, I would get the quarter chassis instead, very easy to fit (except for welding on the top face ) and includes the spring hangers...

Cheers Ian, the offer is muchos appreciated, not really sure I would know what I was doing with one of them mind you! I'd like to rule out a few other things first, before sticking £200 worth of fancy equipment into it and potentially breaking it When I have even less hair left I'll drop you a PM Today I spent a bit of time just checking things over, chaffed wiring etc, nothing, but did notice both down pipes were leaking a little bit at the manifolds, so unbolted them and shoved a load of firegum in and tightened up -no more leaks Quick 10 minute log and the issue is still there... Checked MLV again and found there was somewhat of a correlation between battery voltage and 02 reading: I checked the voltage at the battery and the back of the alternator and it is not varying with revs, time to check earths maybe? I read on my travels something about really really rich can appear to be weak to an 02 sensor due to soot insulating it, is this the case, or was someone talking out their bum? Ian, you say 'that may not be a wiring issue' as if you have an idea of what it might be....? Thanks again peeps... if Mods decide this would be better placed elsewhere along with the replies I completely understand.... didn't think it would be this long winded tbh

Nothing here either...

Here's an example of what I am getting in MLV: Will be checking wiring today methinks...

Been having a closer look at the log files, at WOT the lambda voltage falls over a few seconds down to just zero volts... i.e VERY VERY lean, hence MLV tries it's hardest to up the fueling to compensate... Now, first thought was a weak fuel pump, (i.e. it's not getting enough fuel pressure, fuel injected drops as flow increases), but the clouds of black and colour of plugs kinda say otherwise So.... at the moment I am leaning (no pun intended!) towards either a failed lambda probe or some sort of wiring fault such as a bad earth. First option is a little unlikely I think, as it was happening on a previous sensor as well, this is a new 4-wire one (last one was 4-wire too). So that leaves a wiring fault, I think.... so I'll be checking that over... bearing in mind this was working fine around new year with the old sensor, the problem has only arisen since I swapped transfer box along with a fair few other things I'm beginning to run out of good ideas... Ta for any help people

Seat fuses are under the passenger seat, behind the ABS ECU (assuming you have this), small black box Alternatively, the only power going to the seat is via a 3 pin connection under the passenger seat, unplug this and with trial and error you should be able to find which does what, of course there is always RAVE which would tell you what each pin does

Right, I went out with controller authority down to 5%, set of new plugs as the old ones were beginning to foul, swapped all 8 injectors re-testing each replacement before fitting (I had my suspicions that one or two were leaking, one was found to be weeping slightly). 20 mins driving avoiding the puddles, I monitored the O2 voltage/AFR and it was reading pretty close, so was relatively happy that things were working as they should be.... VE analyse the results - Same damned thing Decided to get a bit fed up with MLV and MT, so fired up TunerStudio MS (managed to get it working for brief time before crashing....), with the hope that this would behave differently... well I think this screen shot shows what happened best, what TSMS thinks on the left, 'slightly' tuned map on the right: Needless to say it ran like a bag of poop and eventually cut out on me just as some coppers were coming the other way(!) After 1 or 2 logs and processing with MLV it really shifts nicely, I even manage wheel spin when hoofing it in first, but from then on it is all down hill. Oh, it's not IAT sensor related, I have one supplied by you Nige, and appears to read correctly, above ambient most of the time, getting to 50C when been sitting idling a while.... HELP!

My coil packs are fixed to the plenum using two of the vacuum take off points, doesn't see to leak at all, I just used some hylomar round the threads and a copper washer either side of the bracket

Serp every time for me, oil pump and ancillary belt being the main reasons I went one stage further and got a P38 4.0l engine, no dizzy at all then

Had that on my Rangie, crushed the outer sleeve nicely on a stump, that was only able to turn right, however on a defender positioned damper that would mean you would only be able to turn left. MrKev might have that one in the bag Remove it and retry

Nige, When I moved the damper on my RRC, I used a piece of 50mm box, with a 30mm (I think?) hole drilled through it -this was the diameter of the drag link, I then welded an L shaped piece of metal with a hole in it for the damper on the top, this closed one end of the box. The other end of the box was closed with a square of 3mm steel and then using a 3.2mm grinding disc I sliced it open in the same direction as the track rod would go. I then drilled two holes for some bolts to go through to clamp it in place on the drag link. A pic says a thousand words: Fitting it was a case of removing one end of the drag link, sliding it down the bar, and finding the best place to clamp it and doing up the bolts. This, for me, was quite important as I didn't really want to be welding on any of my steering components due to heat potentially affecting the strength of them. 2 years in place now and nothing has moved And yes, that is a piece of 6mm on the top, so it is even HfH friendly

I thought that the GEGO % was taken into account by MLV? Or have I missed a vital point -quite possibly tbh :) Will go logging and see what happens, maybe even start from the 3.9 map again, rather than keep going with the clearly arsed up one above.... Ta Nige P.s. you read all that damned quickly

OK, I have been running MS for over a year now, however, after an encounter with some particularly sludgy/sandy clay I have replaced my engine with a 4.0 cross-bolt block from a P38, originally I was running a standard 3.9l V8 in my RRC. I had the tuning pretty well sorted on the 3.9, and considering is was blowing 3 out of 8 cylinders into the valley, it was going very nicely thank you SO, I swap the engines around, and since then I just haven't been able to get it to tune correctly... software setup is exactly the same, MS1 v3 board built by our own FF, not getting resets, and actually it goes like hot snot, especially since I stuck a 1.410 ratio Lt230 in it. I'm using narrow band lambda with Megatune for logging, and MegalogViewer for automatically tuning the VE, spark map remains pretty unchanged from the 3.9 version, which is the same as one of the MSQs posted on here somewhere (think it is from HfH actually ). The engine is in a mild state of tune, Kent H200 cam, rhoads lifters, ported heads, no idea what it is pushing, but even as it is it must be a chunk over 200BHP. The truck is a 1991 auto(hence the funny VE table pattern) RRC on 33" JT2s, standard axles Right, that's the background.... the problem is that every time I go out logging, all MLV wants to do is up the fueling, and I am not talking a little here (which was kind of expected), but a *LOT*... I am talking clouds of black smoke, particularly on acceleration, under load or on no load. Some screenshots of before and after.... Old VE: New VE: Req fuel (unchanged): Exhaust gas settings: Only thing I think I have changed was the controller authority on the exhaust gas settings, from 5% to 15%, just to make doubly sure I wasn't going to toast the engine running too lean... Coolant temp appears the same as before(thanks to Kamdiffs steve for re-plumbing ideas), thermostat opening and a while later the fans kicking in (82C stat, 87 on, 84 off), fuel rail/reg/injectors is from the P38, as is the manifold, but plenum/trumpets from the 3.9. I have tinkered with AE, but as I understand it, it only increases fuel for a short amount of time, to stop the engine stuttering on pickup....? MAP value appears to be OK, idle around 40, hits 98 on full throttle. Changed the lambda probe as it was all I could really think was causing it... I'd appreciate any help someone has the time to give... really not sure where to go from here... Couple of attachments : MSQ Recent Datalog Many thanks to anyone that can point me in the right direction Cheers, Pete. *edit* If anyone thinks this should be in a different post, please feel free to move it

Easy way to tell if it is a Dutch one btw, this one is Dutch: http://www.crusader80.co.uk/images/landrover_dutch.jpg Notice the indicators on top of the wings, and smaller sidelights. 'UK' spec lightweight: http://www.dora4x4.com/images/Lightweight.jpg There are lots of other differences, but that's the easy way to spot them

Nothing beats a good words'n'pictures write up if you ask me

This is symptomatic of the brake shoe springs being fitted incorrectly, I would double check these first, as it is very easily done...

Switch the terminals in the connector block around?

Even if it was illegal, it's not prerogative to fix it without asking. As the old one won't go back on, pay the bill, minus labour and parts for the new exhaust, if he takes issue with that tell him 'see you in court' and walk away.

Nope

The motor mover probably isn't putting enough force on the overrun brakes to engage them, whereas the car will easily have enough grunt. Normally moving forward a couple of feet, and then back again will release them.