Bowie69

Very nice Bish! Lidl often have a good garage vacuum on offer, cheap, and also switches on/off automatically when you connect the power tool you are using through it -just a thought? How long till the buggy is done then?

I have the H200(from Paul @ V8Tuner) in my 4.0 P38-engined RRC, this works well in my opinion, especially combined with the Rhoads lifters, which 'soften' the cam at lower revs in an effort to increase fuel economy, can't really give MPG figures, as it's not been running that long, and besides, this is *my* toy truck, so I tend not to monitor it too much Your choice of cams are somewhat limited on the 4.0/4.6 serp V8s as not many manufacturers make them suitable for the different timing gear, you are also restricted to stock timing sprockets/chain, but they are an improvement over the plastic ones on the earlier V8s. I would say either the H180/200 would be a good choice, mainly because you don't have much else, and the H200 does give oodles of grunt from around 2500rpm

I've no experience of the Terrafirma springs, but their shocks are very much more controlled on the road than my old pro-comps, but then I do weigh in at 1350Kg on the rear axle, you are probably a bit lighter than that. I would recommend them as a budget set of shocks, definitely.

Read the tin of paint too, some say the concrete has to be down for 2 years!

In fact, the cams are different too! The 3.9's have the facility for the distributor drive gear whereas the 4.0/4.6 doesn't!

It won't make ANY difference!

Top hat liners will sort that then....

If it is just leaking coolant/pressurising, get it top hatted and job done surely? Unless of course by cracked, you mean a bloody great hole in the side where the con rod exited

Why not? Just how bad is the crack?

The 3.9 shares the same bore diameter, but that is about it TBH. Off the top of my head, this is one way to go about it (though i am sure there are others): Rebore to +020 as the stroke in a 4.6 is much longer. Regrind the 4.6 crank down to fit the smaller and much inferior 3.9 main bearings, other fettling may (will) be required. I don't think it is good practice to line bore the block to take the larger bearings... the bottom end isn't that strong on the 3.9s anyways, due to the lack of cross-bolting. Use the 4.6 rods Use new +020 pistons and rings, get them pressed onto the above rods Use the 3.9 camshaft, front cover, horrible chain and sprockets Use the 4.6 heads, with composite gaskets Use the 4.6 rockers and pushrods Fit a crank spacer for the pulley. Probably the thick end of £1500 for parts and machine shop work. Or something along those lines anyways..... HOWEVER, top hat linering the 4.6 block can be done for £1000 with enough change for a gasket set and a new cam/followers -this would be my preferred route TBH, you end up with a stronger bottom end (cross bolted) and no mucking about with trying to force parts together which were never designed to be! My thoughts anyways

Last thing to check, which colour wire from the lambda sensor are you using for the signal? No point moving the sensor, if it is a heated one then you should have no problems even with it in the tail pipe.

They are, the shifter position is different.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15985

Be safer to push it onto it's side and strap it down than attempt to do it with it still on it's wheels....

Only very late 3.9s had the 24 spline axles, you will very very likely find it is a 10 spline unit, also, AFAIK all 3.9s had ABS...

Turn down your required fuel until it no longer stinks of fuel and pops through the exhaust. Also, CHECK the map hose, this will give the symptoms you describe, as it thinks the engine is at WOT the whole time. Do you know the history of the engine?

'Earth all sensors back to the ECU, then a single fat earth back to the battery' The above is standard practice you know....

Thanks Paul, gave me something to think on, I know I do it too much, but if I think really hard the people inside my head start speaking back to me -they keep me company I read up on weak mixtures and burning etc, with aluminium pistons and leaner mixtures, as there is oxygen left in the and given the high temperatures and explosions going on you can actually start to burn the piston, hence a melted piston, overheated top end and kaboom -something I want to avoid ofc Localised heat is bad for engine tolerances, so it could well be this that gives the slipping liner syndrome, I may of course be completely wrong, and I don't want to start a discussion about that here! Anyways..... some success -I finally got some time to do a bit of tuning! I went with this AFR table, after analysing log files and working out where my cruise zone is, I changed a couple of things, some AFRs and an RPM bin, and of course idle AFR, which I of course tweak manually, but it is there for reference. I also switched off overrun fuel cut off so I could get a ball park tune for the <30Kpa figures. My cruise figures varied from 1900/68 to 2400/88 to 3000/60 (locked in 2nd gear) so I think this AFR table makes some sense: This is the tune it has now given me: Looking pretty good, I think...? There's a bit of a spike at 1000/90, very high value.... I take it this means I probably need to up my Acceleration Enrichment a bit? Another question..... I was scanning the log files with MLV, and noticed something happening at WOT, MAP is decreasing as RPM increases, I wondered if this was a common thing across installations, or is the standard Rangie air filter strangling things? Quick SS: I got home tonight, and thought I'd tweak the AFR table some more, this time for the overrun figures, and ended up with this: Any thoughts? Pretty close? Gonna do some more logging soon with the above AFR table, and tweak AE values, and will post results Cheers, Pete.

Site is less overloaded this morning : http://yourfreedom.h...erc-legislation *edit* There's a few on there now! http://yourfreedom.hmg.gov.uk/@@search?text=nerc

I quite like it

This sort of thing: Followed by suprisingly well reasoned and calm arguments from members of the public

Think they need to give their ISP a ring and upgrade, it is crawling at the moment... *BUT* really good idea

If it fills from the top (under the seat), doesn't that make it a military fuel tank?

Saab 99?

Or Terrafirma.... they provide much more damping that the Pro-comps, and similar prices.

Good news Night Train