need4speed

No the washers I'm talking about go inside the wiper motor. Not on the wheelboxes.

no-one?

Hi Duncan Welcome to the forum. As already mentioned you will probably be better off scouring fleabay for a good used one. A few things id like to add - the tub on my 110 project was really bad. Especially where the tub bolts onto the mounting brackets that hold it down onto the outriggers. Only a TIG welding master would have been able to do a GOOD repair. The thing about corrosion in this area is that there isnt a cheap replacement panel available. I ended up getting an excellent one from the aforementioned auction site. Be sure that you get good close-up pics of the trouble areas i mentioned before you travel to pick it up.

I recently fitted a full set of genuine ones to my new push button doors. It was prob more difficult for me as I had to drill all the holes for the countersunk screws that hold the channels in place. Don't imagine you will need to do that with your doors. It was still dead easy though. Can't imagine it being that different to lift up handle doors

Just getting round to refitting the front wiper motor with the modified (140) gearwheel into. I noticed that the new gear and crank came with various washers - domed and plain. Now the old gear wasn't fitted with any washers so I don't know if I need them or where they go? Also, given that I'm fitting a pre td5 motor and drive cable onto a td5 bulkhead, will I need a different tube that holds the drive cable? I'm asking as I understand the motor is mounted at a different angle on the td5 and so may be different length?

No worries me old plum duff!

Now thats more my price range. Thanks OF

Well you say that but just went onto the screwfix site and all the flashing seems pretty damn expensive. unless im looking at the wrong type?

Do you mean http://www.soundcont...&products_id=88 Is this a reasonable price? Just recalled that when i saw a 4x4 is born he used some self adhesive sheet to the inner doors. Who sells that stuff?

Was looking at fitting some soundproofing inside the doors and was wondering what the most suitable stuff to use is? Obviously being inside the door it needs to repel moisture as opposed to absorbing it. Looked at stuff from noisekiller but at £40 for a half sheet seems a bit pricey. Dont even know if its waterproof. Any thoughts

Yes you are correct Ross. Ive been told by MUD that if you swap the rockers around, instead of them lighting green with sidelights to match LR gauges, they will light orange. Oh and when you switch em on the led bar will of course be green. That is why i will be going with dun-bri so the switches will be 'press bottom to switch on'. It may not seem a big deal but it doesnt feel natural pressing the top of them to switch them on.

...Which will have a knock-on effect for trailing arm mounting points etc

Thanks frax. Its a weird one because the one that's a bit tight frees off when its warm!! I discovered this by accident when I brought them inside yesterday. I will submerse them both in oil over the weekend and see if that helps. Phil

Thanks for replying Ralph but I think uv slightly misunderstood. The wheelboxes are brand new but I was wondering if I could take the gearwheels off in order to gain access to the shafts. Its damn near impossible to lube the shafts with the gear on.

I've heard the gearwheel on the earlier wheelboxes can be removed (in order to turn them through 180 degrees) and just wondered if the same can be done to the td5 ones?

Apart from the cover can these be dismantled ie removal of the spindle? I recently bought a new genuine pair of these but I'm not too happy with them. One of them feels a little tight to turn and the other makes a terrible squeeking sound when you rotate the spindle as if its bone dry and needing greased.

Could someone tell me if the td5 led warning panel is repairable if some of the leds don't illuminate? Thanks

Err arent carling switches rated to 20A?

Discovered the trick was to remove the front window guide, then with the window temporarily supported in place, slide the guide down over the front edge of the glass. With the window down you can then tighten the top of the guide. The bottom of the guide can be tightened when the window is moved up. Job done

Just got all the new window runners and fillers fitted to new passenger front door. I'm buggered if I can get the window in though. What's the trick in refitting these? If it makes any difference its the later steel door.

Thanks guys. Found some at model centre. Styrene sheet it was called.

Does anyone know where I can buy 10mm x 1mm plastic strip in various lengths?

If you have already moved the mounts then I would think it will fit.

Now that I've got a td5 bulkhead wiring harness, I'm at the stage where I'm planning to wire up the dash and ancillaries. I'm planning to fit the raptor dash and pod with additional gauges and some carling switches for future equipment (diff lockers, winch etc). Seeing as I'm at the stage of a bare bulkhead am I better making a custom loom for the extra gauges and switches, and if so what's the best way to go about it? I was considering using ETB gauges (oil pressure, oil temp, gearbox oil temp, voltmeter) Can anyone vouch for them? Any advice greatly appreciated as always.

Save the oil burning for the chip pan. Fit a big v8 and have done with it!