Snagger

double post. Sorry.

double post. Sorry.

Try driving with 4wd selected on your Series transmission and feel how the steering behaves on tight corners. You will soon want CV joints.

Ah, that explains very well how you all knew exactly what I was asking about, even after the second spell-correction! I thought it was just a nasty quirk of the tablet I was using when posting, but now I see it's just nasty quirk of the system I was inquiring about! Regular wax it is, then. I might use Dinitrol rather than Waxoil, though - if it's good enough for Boeing, then it should be good enough for a Defender. Thanks for the recommendation, Reb, I'll look them up. I don't want to do it myself as it's a horribly messy job and I want the insides of the chassis, bulkhead and door frames done with proper high pressure spray probes.

Happy Christmas everyone! I'm just wondering if anyone has had this treatment done and what they think of it. How does it stand up to stone chipping? Edit: spell check changed Ermintrude to ermintrude. While I am appreciative of the benefits they bring us, I'm not especially interested in cows!

Happy Christmas!

I think it might be a problem with the ignition switch or both of the relays controlled by them.

Many years ago, I had a standard domestic fan heater in my 109 with an external socket for a power lead (like those used on buildings sites, camp sites, marinas and so on). Five minutes before using the car, I'd plug it in at full blast and then would have a roasty-toasty car to set off in. The only draw back was the need for the electrical hook up, much like with the Kenlowe Hot starts, which though they have the benefit of warming the engine, take far longer and more power to make any difference than the fan. BUT, these heaters have around 3000W output. Look at these vehicle powered heaters' outputs and you'll see they'll never be any use.

Thanks for the interest an replies, everyone. We bought an immaculate 2009 90XS through a LR Approved franchise dealer, so at a little extra cost have the piece of mind of knowing it's one of the best about and has a decent warranty. Other comparable vehicles were slightly more dog-eared and lacked the big warranty but were only fractionally cheaper, so I think we did well. Helena's very excited.

Use a wire with a female spade terminal directly from the battery to the solenoid and try starting it. This will tell you if it's something between the immobiliser and solenoid.

Hi all. I'm hoping to embark on a ground-up rebuild of my 1995 RRC, as detailed a build as my 109 but with only aircon (using gen parts) by way of mods. Some rare parts I'll need are the "LAND ROVER CLASSIC" and "Tdi" badges for the lower part of the lower tail gate. The Tdi badge is in raised gun metal grey lettering and is no longer available. The plastic lettering in the Land Rover badge has, ironically, corroded! Does anyone have either of these badges available or know of any sources that could help?

I've had bad trouble bleeding clutches before, but it was always because I did it on level ground. The vehicle nose needs to be raised to make sure the fluid is at the piston end of the slave and the air at the bleed nipple end. Try it with front axle lifted3"or more off the ground (use axle stands and chocks, since you'll be going underneath).

Well,LRO certainly wouldn't print it - they're far to pally to be impartial or remotely objective and get too many goodies and works. They are somehow blind as to how this ruins their credibility, though.

P38 has the best PAS box of any LR, nearly bulletproof. It should be easier to fit,too, bolted outboard of the chassis rail, not needing the cross member to be moved.

The 200tdi turbo wants to occupy the space of the steering box on lhd models, which is why most US conversions also fit PAS at the same time using Saginaw boxes. The 300tdi manifold and turbo might work as it's tighter to the block, but "try before you buy", if possible, even if that just means taking measurements of how far from the block the turbo protrudes. While 300tdis are set well forwards in Defenders so that the duct from air filter to turbo can sit between the head and bulkhead, and you don't have that space in a Series, the engine sits much lower in a Series allowing the pipe to run over the head below the bonnet. That deals nicely with the airfilter issue: just use a 300tdi unit.

Thanks, guys. We took a look around, just in case, already feeling wary, but they really gave us the creeps. We both got a bad feeling just looking around the vehicles before even entering the building to see the staff. And they're much more expensive than Land Rover Approved vehicles which have lower mileages and vastly better warrantys. As for the Icons...

Snap - I want to restore mine to new condition, but finding a decent body shop at fair prices is hard.

Hi folks. I'm looking to buy a good Td5 or TDCI 90 and Nene seems to have a decent stock. I haven't had any dealings with them, so am looking for opinions from those of you who have. I'd be very grateful if you'd PM your experiences to me.

It should fit. You'd get better results by using tee pieces to run the heaters in parallel, not series.

Look closely at the floors (especially the corners of the front fot wells and the boot edges), the sills, wheel arches and body rear cross member (above the chassis rear cross member, supporting the back edge of the boot floor and the D-pillars either side of the tail gate). Rear suspension A-frame ball joints wear out, making a knock on accelerating and braking. Bushes can perish with age, so look out for bulging, cracking or split bushes.

Trouble is, any two or more breaks in the insulation will result in a short circuit.

That's not right. LR did make a few 100" prototypes for the Swiss army, at least one of which had three doors (standard front doors and a specially made rear door on one side only), but the original CSWs were Series vehicles, not Defender forerunner 90s/110s, and so had very little in common with RR chassis.A RR/Defender hybrid will need new outriggers and rear cross member and a host of altered or added brackets, but it has been done most famously on "A 4x4 Is Born" (TV series). It's not the rear of the tub that needs shortening but the front, which is not an easy job to do neatly. I would not recommend extending a 100" chassis to 110" as I believe the depths, and thus strength, of the main rails is much less on the shorter chassis.

It's straight forward when you look at the windows closely - the catch has to be at the top so that the drain slots in the exterior of the frame will let water out of the glazing track, and the bottom track is made of rigid plastic so that it doesn't soak up water (expanding and seizing, also growing all sorts of fungi and fauna), and the sliding pane is at the front as it is the outboard pane, and the glass has to overlap that way to revent the airflow from driving forcing draughts and rain water in through the vertical seal between the two panes.. Of course, aftermarket windows can be set up differently, like the sliding windows fitted to my 109 when I bougth it (they had the overlap of the panes the same way, but it was the rear pane that slid).

That's also true in any ABS system - the brake pressure in the callipers is released on lock-up by isolating the feed circuit to the nrake unit and opening a return or depressirising line. Once traction is regained, the return valve closes and the feed line reopens to reapply pressure. That can only be done with fresh fluid pressure supplied by an accumulator (pumps are too slow, but are used to charge the accumulator). If you didn't have an accumulator (or if the accumulator isn't charged), then the ABS system will release the brakes once and that's all - you'd have to pump the pedal to get them back on.ETC is, as you said, just a different logic mode within the ECU that opens the feed valve from the accumulator to a spinning wheel's brake unit.

All this clutch hose business must be catching - I'm losing clutch fluid very fast but can't see any traces of leaks except for a gummy hose, but that could be from diesel spilt from the filter and piping. New slave and braided hose going on in the next couple of days...