Snagger

Thanks, Dave. I think the crown wheel is thicker to compensate for the pinion diameter. I know that Salisbury axles have a different carrier between the 3.54 and the 4.71 for that very reason, the cut off being 4.1 (I can't remember for certain which side the 4.1 falls on, but I think it's the 3.54 carrier). KAM make spacer rings to allow the higher geared rings to be used on the 4.71 carrier. I assume it's similar on the front Rover diffs, too, but I'm not certain. Thanks too, Jeremy. MGBs, TR7s and Rover SD1s used Salisbury rear axles with 3.9 gearing, but I'm not sure if it's the same size. The V8 MG and SD1 used 3.1 gearing, but I think it's the same carrier, so it'd need to be pretty sturdy. I'm just not sure they fit the LR axles. I'm trying to work out which type of diff this fits: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-TKC3282

Check the relative positions of the flywheel locking tool apertures on the cases (the Tdi uses the drain hole, the 19J has an aperture with a brass plug on the upper right side) and compare it to the relative positions of the two timing slots on the flywheel (I think both engines share the same flywheel). The Tdi is timed form the bottom, so you need to make sure the previously unused slot aligns with the upper right hole in the 19J casing so that you can time the engine correctly in the future. If the marks and holes don't match, you'll have to be very careful about ensuring the new hole is in exactly the right place.

Thanks. Steve. I saw the 3.8s on your website, but I have the problem of finding a matching set for the Salisbury rear axle. 3.9 would be a better ratio, but if I can't find it, 3.8 is close enough. Can you recommend anyone for the Salisbury?

Hi everyone. As part of the 110 axle swap on my Tdi powered 109 (standard transmission with Roverdrive), I'm considering regearing the diffs. I won't use the 4.74s from the existing axles because the vehicle is significantly under geared, and I am concerned about retaining the "new" axles' 3.54s as I think they will be over geared (based on experience of uphill slopes on motorways with a full roof rack with the overdrive engaged - 3.54s are taller in crease than overdrive). I think 3.9:1 would be the perfect gearing for my application, and I know that the Rover P4 used this ratio in its Rover diff, as did the MGB GT in its Salisbury diff. The question is, will their crown wheels and pinions fit the LR carriers and diff casing?

Hi everyone. As part of the coiler axle swap on my Tdi powered 109 (standard transmission with Roverdrive), I'm considering regearing the diffs. I won't use the 4.74s from the existing axles because the vehicle is significantly under geared, and I am concerned about retaining the "new" axles' 3.54s as i think they will be over geared (based on experience of uphill slopes on motorways with a full roof rack with the overdrive engaged - 3.54s are taller in crease than overdrive). I think 3.9:1 would be the perfect gearing for my application, and I know that the Rover P4 used this ratio in its Rover diff, as did the MGB GT in its Salisbury diff. The question is, will their crown wheels and pinions fit the LR carriers and diff casing?

The lift pump is cam operated, and if the cam is pushing on the inner end of the pump's arm, then you won't be able to prime the pump as the compression is already on the mechanism and the diaphagm is held in the "exhale" position. Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and try the pump lever again - if you still get no resistance, turn the crank another 180 degrees. Once you have turned the crankshaft all the way round twice, you will have turned the cam shaft through 360 degrees - if you have not had the pump lever working at any point then the pump has failed. When you prime the pump, you should get bubbly fuel at first, but you should eventually get clear, bubble-free fuel from the filter's bleed. It may take a few dozen strokes to prime if the tank's line has drained back fully. If you continue to get bubbles, the pump is sucking in air on its "inhalation" stroke. This will be a fault in the line from the tank to the lift pump, a rust pin hole in the fuel tank's pick-up pipe or a pin hole in the lift pump's diaphragm (which should also result in diesel contamination of the sump oil, so check that too). The final possibility is a blockage in the fuel system, including the gauze strainer at the bottom of the tank's pick-up. It's not your glow plugs, and unless you have replaced the timing belt or injection pump, it's unlikely to be timing (though it's worth ocassionally checking the timing at service intervals).

It's a problem with fuel supply. If the injection pump solenoid clicks when you give it 12V, then it's a problem with the pipework or filter - look for any loose unions and splits that would allow air in (not just fuel out; a tiny leak in the system allows the air in which results in the fuel draining back to the fuel tank).

You need to remove the cap, clean it and the drive flange up and then refit the cap with a bead of RTV silicon sealant. The hub seal is inboard, and would contaminate the inside face of the brakes.

Uprating the shafts is of little benefit unless you get the diffs pegged - you'll strip the teeth off the gears instaed of breaking a shaft, and replacing a shaft is easier and cheaper than rebuilding the diff.

They had the pressre differential and brake servo vaccum switches in 1982. The press to test switch had also been replaced with a self check when the starter motor was activated - the ignition switch has an output with a smaller diameter white wire with red stripe that runs to the stsyem's relay, which earths the system like any of the other switches while the key in is position III. I don't think reservoir level sensors were ever fitted to the SIII. I am retro-fitting one from a Discovery; the caps are dimensionally identical and a straight swap.

I am a little surprised you don't market it for the SIII as well - it fits perfectly.

He's doing it the other way around and it is a big problem, as I explained in the previous post.

The Mudstuff dash screws into the painted steel plate behind the plastic trim, so will fit a vehicle without the trim piece. I'd be very surprised if the other products needed the trim to be fitted either.

You can fit the SII dash to a defender easily, but not the other way around. The Defender bulkhead is flat, while the SIII bulkhead has a large bulge into the cab. I have no idea what the bulge is for - the throttle linkage sits forward of it and the ballast resistor on diesel models' could easily be relocated. By removing that bulge and covering the resulting hole with flat plate, you can fit the Defender dash. ALternatively, you could try fitting the curved section of the back of a SIII dash to a Defender dash, but it'd be a lot of fiddly work and getting a decent finish on the cosmetic plastic covering would eb nigh on impossible. I went with the former method.

Wind chill is the additional cooling by airflow of an object warmer than the ambient atmosphere. Since the washer fluid is not heated, it cannot suffer from wind chill, regardless of wind speeds or vehicle speed. Your engine and radiator use wind chill to cool them, and the cabin suffers wind chill when you're trying to keep it war min the winter, and wind chill helps cool it in summer where direct insolation has warmed the car to a higher temperature than the surrounding air. Your washer fluid will still be at ambient temperatures and will not be affected by airlfow.

My 1995 RR Classic has heated front screen washer jets, thbough the rear screen and headlamp jets are not heated. They're on the same circuit as the rear screen and wing mirror heaters. LR obviously saw a need for it on their premium vehicles. I think the problem is the same as the rest of our winter driving woes - the weather is usually so mild that no-one is prepared, from the government, through the motor industry and down to the individual drivers, for the really bad weather. Decent quality screen wash simply isn't commonly available here, and where it can be found, it's unreasonably expensive. Even if it was cheap, so many drivers never check their fluids levels, bulbs or tyres that I doubt anything would change. We don't have enough severe weather to shake the nation out of its complacent and apathetic mentality.

I have the Mud dash. It has been installed for four years and survived 500 miles worth of off roading through the Alps. Even now, there is no sign of any damage or stress. There is nothing wrong with the kit - I think any broken units may be down to accidents in use or poor installation ( holes cut in a manner that creates stress points and too small for the appliance fitted in them). The Raptor unit looks toogh and is easily adaptable to fit whatever you want, but is as ugly as hell. The Iron Goat unit looks the best, but they have already chosen what you will fit for you - it has no flexibiltiy of installation. The Mud dash looks good if installed with care, is easily tough enough for all but the clumsiest drivers and offers complete fexibility in what you mount and has greater capacity than the IG unit. It's also the cheapest by a considerable margin.

Most Japanese and US 4wd vehicles still use leaf springs. If your leaf springs are in good order and you have appropriate dampers, the ride should be reasonably comfortable. I can see why people conducting a complete rebuild may chose to fit Range Rover running gear, but fitting coils while using Series engines and transmissions seems un-necessarily difficult for little gain. For UK vehicles, it would certainly result in the loss of too many VIN poits to retain the original VIN, requiring SVA and VIC tests and re-registration with a Q-plate. Most of these hybrids are using illegal identities, and I'd wager that many of the owners haven't even disclosed the alterations to their insurers, rendering them uninsured. In all honesty, I'm glad the DVLA are clamping down; there are many owners gratuitiosly flouting the rules with ringers, dangerously modified vehicles and invalidated insurance.

Glencoyne Engineering in Thetford offers the Tdi and the 200DI (a de-turbo charged Tdi that make installation much easier and thus cheaper, retaining the orignal Series rad, plumbing and exhaust).

I don't doubt their quality, closely oggling them at every show I attend, but that doesn't make them cheaper, just fair value.

I wouldn't recommend it - any leaks, even small, would not only make a mess but also be a severe fumes and fire risk. It'd be illegal in most of Europe because most of those countries prohibit internal carriage of fuel (Switzerland and Italy even prohibit the use of external roof mounted fuel cans).

That's what I want to add to mine - I have one of those galvanised units (powder coated the same grey as MSS use) on each side behind my second row seats (109 hard top) and plan to fit the MSS long drawer or standard drawer and 300mm locker behind the seats. As lock has it, I could also fit one of their short wheel arch 300mm deep lockers between my seats perfectly, but I doubt that I will. The trouble with MSS is their cost.

have a word with Se7enup on the LRUK forum - he made up a batch of these for forum members at £50 a piece (made to your specified length), he may be planning another batch:

U sued the same kit to fit a spare wheel on mine. The bonnet is fairly heavy, but then again I also have a Noise Killer kit on it, plus a shovel and pick axe. It's still manageable, the hardest part being reaching the bonnet prop when it's in its catch (or putting it back into the catch), but the bullbar and winch make me have to stand that much further away, so I suspect they cause the difficulty, not the weight. The biggest nuisance is that the bonnet will no longer pop up when you pull the release lever, so you need a second person to lift the bonnet while the release lever is pulled or a tool (like a piece of aluminium tube with a full-length slit to hold the lever open while you lift the bonnet. I gave up on both and fit the MoD/Camel Trophy style bonnet hooks to the bonnet and wing tops and wound the bonnet catch in far enough on its adjustment that it still provides lateral location (stopping the bonnet from swaying) but doesn't engage in the lock.

Well, I pulled the half shafts and tested the pinion preload with it driving the diff carrier only. It's exactly the same as on the other stripped axle (I suppose the gear ratio doesn't make much difference when there is no resistance from the hubs and road wheels). So, it would seem that using about 150'lbs on the main nut if you lose the markings works well enough.