Snagger

Well, that seems comforting - I'm getting about 15-20psi at idle and 37ish at higher rpm. I'd be grateful for more reports from others, but maybe these lower figures are not something to worry about and are typical of warm Tdis.

Thanks, Western. Those figures translate as 25-55psi, which my 12J got, and my Tdi has 55psi cold at all rpm, but when it reaches the last few moments of temperature gauge rise to the exact centre of the normal arc, where it stabilises, the pressure drops off quite a bit. it seems to be as the oilstat opens. I'm trying to find out what seems to be normal pressure, as I'm getting conflicting information about observed pressures rather than book figures.

Hi everyone. Could any of you who have oil pressure gauges please tell me what readings you get when the oil is fully warmed up (20 minutes of driving in this weather, for those without oil temperature gauges), both at idle and mission rpm?

My 109 uses a single line from the PDWA to the front cross member, where a T-piece splits it to each corner. I will be fitting the fluid level sensing cap from a Discovery to my reservoir - this will achieve the same thing by warning of a leak, hopeful before the leaking circuit loses enough fluid to move the DPWA piston.

That's what came to my mind too.

I had tried various DIY schemes with little success, but fitted a Wright Off Road kit when they were very new. It made an enormous difference, allowing conversation at normal voice levels at 60mph with a diesel, but you can't get rid of all the noise. During my rebuild, I also added a full Noise Killer under bonnet kit and another square yard of their foil covered sound barrier material to the entire engine side of the bulkhead and the entire inner wings. This was not cheap and made no noticeable difference over the sound reduction from the WOR kit. One commonly reported problem with the NK kit is that the bonnet lining panels tend to fall off - I have this problem, and regardless of whatever adhesives I try, I can't get it to stay on; it's only the LR fibrous sound pad (Defender bonnet) that stops the NK pad from getting caught up in the fan belt, throttle mechanism or steering gear. Their kit is also made with open-cell foam, which is better for noise attenuation than closed cell, but also soaks up water like a sponge, so unless your bulkhead is galvanised, it'll really accelerate its demise. For all that, I used some of Noise Killers interior matting (it's the same as the under bonnet stuff, but with a double layer of the grey plastic instead of one layer of that and one of foil) on the hard top side panels, and that had a very big effect. So, I'd recommend the WOR kit for the cabin and tub floor (he does rolls of chequer plate pattern lining in the matching materials and colours as the front kits), and only use NK's interior matting on the hard top and door skins. With the 200Tdi, I can hold a comfortable conversation with ease at 60mph and with only slightly elevated voices at 70mph.

You will be able to retain the SIII clutch system if you swap the bell housings. Keep the existing pinion in the SIII bell housing and fit the matched gear from the SIII lay shaft to the SII lay shaft to ensure good mesh. The 2.5 engine will need its clutch drive or friction plate replacing with a SIII item (to match the gear box pinion splines), but the flywheel and clutch pressure plate are compatible with the SIII parts. You will lose 1st and 2nd synchromesh, not 3rd and 4th. Personally, I'd sell the IIA box and use the proceeds to rebuild the SIII unit - it's a much nicer drive and is better off road because you don't lose as much momentum from double de-clutching. The 2.5 is a nice mode, though.

I'm sure I'm interpreting this comment differently from how you intended, because it comes across as an "out of sight, out of mind" approach where, as long as it doesn't get picked up on MoT, it's fine. That cross member is rotten, and these things are always worse than they appear as the box sections rot from inside. Not only does that cross member take all towing or rear recovery loads, it takes a lot of torsional chassis loads when the axle articulates, keeping the chassis straight, and is supporting your fuel tank. I'm sure I needn't illustrate what will happen if the fuel tank supporting mounts, in the worst corroded area, fail, allowing the back of a full tank to drop and make contact with the road while travelling at speed.If you can weld, a rear cross member is not too bad a job. The only difficult part is welding the top of each chassis rail extension, which many people foolishly ignore because the tub floor is in the way. You can either remove the tub, lift its rear (roof off and front doors open) or just remove the tub floor, but those seams definitely need welding too.

What he said! On coil sprung axles, the lateral loads are carried by the A-frame (rear) or Panhard rod (front) and their associated brackets. On leaf sprung axles, the lateral loads are carried by the springs and saddles. Your saddles will fold sideways unless you brace them by plating the ends with 5mm+ steel. That rear cross member looks a little tired!

I'd agree with that. Even changing the carb and ignition, or just a damned good tune up, can reap big rewards - the 24V MoD LRs have a basic distributor with no vacuum advance, and that costs a couple of mpg alone!The 2.5 petrol is little more than a stroked 2.25 with a better carb and slightly ignition system, yet returns better economy and more power/torque... There is also the possibility of LPG conversions - it gives better cost economy than diesels tend to and does not increase noise or vibration levels in the car or change its performance in any significant manner, and the conversion will not be so involved or complex as an engine change. the main issues are the local availability of LPG and whether you have the space for the tanks - a 109 can use front tanks for petrol and replace the rear tank with gas tanks, but space is a bit more limited in a SWB if you don't want one inside the tub. Rich, the 2.25 was never considered frugal, but it may not have seemed particularly thirsty in its day. However, in modern terms it is thirsty, and looking at fifty year old comparisons when modern alternatives are available is a bit Luddite.

I am using the same diff axis (+2 degrees as you said) on the rear axle. My suspicion is that the springs' axis is out of parallel with the chassis and transmission axis by that amount, with the shackle end of the springs slightly higher than the front end, but I haven't bothered to measure it - both of my SIII axles had the same 2 degree variance, so I merely copied it, having taken the spring saddles from one of those axles (which has already been robbed by the previous owner for its brake assemblies). As for the front axle, I have copied the 1 degree variance between the swivel axis and spring mounts (the spring mounts sit at 2 degrees from horizontal, but you need the mating faces of the swivel pins to be at 3 degrees). The diff axis will be as it was when fitted to its Discovery donor, and I will merely reset the prop shaft's slip joint alignment to mimic the UJ yolk alignment on the coiler models to avoid prop shaft vibration from UJ flanges running out of parallel. Given that the 4wd system is only used at relatively low speeds, there should be no significant vibration from this solution, but if there is, I will ask Bailey Morris (a local prop shaft manufacturer who supply custom props as well as supply vehicle manufacturers) if they could calculate the exact amount of rotational offset the UJs require for the specific deflections my UJs operate at. The bump stops of the front axle need to be completely removed and refitted 5 degrees off the spring saddles, just like the Series axle - coiler axles have their bump stops on a forward slope to account for the axle's rotation around the rear the radius arm joint as it travels upwards, while leafers' axles maintain their axis. Make sure the ends of those coil mounts you have used as saddles get plated up (5mm thick or more) to prevent them from collapsing sideways.

I'm slowly working on the same job. My progress and solutions to various problems are here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/category/axles

It could be a bad head gasket, but I'd suspect bore corrosion and ring damage from standing or cracked pistons from previous overheating (common on these engines). Pulling the head will allow you to determine which it is.

9.5

There are differences between various axles, but these are limited to the shafts, CV joint, drive flange, hub depth and brakes. The axle cases and swivels are the same, the only variation being the side on which the drag link steering arm is sited and the fact that they rationalised the TD5s and Tdcis by using ambidextrous axles so they could use less moulds and fit any axle to any vehicle regardless of whether it is lhd or rhd. The track rod arms are the same on all coiler varieties.

I have a Tdi, and the SIII transmission seems fine. I'd be reluctant to fit anything with more torque than a 3.5 V8 or Tdi, but driven cautiously it should be fine. You will lose the single VIN poon for the engine regardless of performance or turbo charging. Fitting a later type of gear box would lose both points for the transmission. You can afford to lose those points as long as you don't modify the chassis - I suspect the DVLA will not be concerned about new engine or transmission mounts, but moving outriggers or cross members will lose the chassis' five points. This is where fitting power assisted steering is a problem; the Heystee hydraulicram kit just btsmpn and uses the existing system, so loses no points from the steering or chassis, but the more common RRC/Defended steering retrofit requires significant alteration of the chassis's front cross member and replaces rather than suppements the original steering. Fitting LR PAS costs you seven points, which would probably be too much in conjunction with other alterations.

The gearing would give the same speed for a given rpm regardles of the engine used, but both engines would easily pull an overdrive, high ratio transfer box or 3.54 diffs. I favour overwrites because they are selectable, leaving the gearing standard when desired. It still leaves the gearing a little low for motorways, though, and the diff swap would work better for a lightly loaded commuter that doesn't do much heavy towing or steep off road work. Fairer overwrites cost about £300 in good second hand condition, but many have been abused. They are still built new by Rovers Spwn South, and Nene Overland are their UK distributor for parts and complete units. The RDS fairy unit's new price is comparable to the much stronger and quieter Roverdrive. The sole axavantage of buying a new Fairey type unit is originality if you are restoring a vehicle to original specs (Faireys were available as factory fit from SI days, so would not ever look like an alteration except to rivet counters like us who know MoD LRs never had them), but the type may not tolerate the torque from your engine transplant too well - the Roverdrive or diff swap would be much more robust.

2wd low would be useful for reversing a light trailer, but used for heavy towing or steep hills is likely to break axle components - low has much more torque and that needs to be split between the two axles to halve the stresses on the diffs and half shafts.

No Duncan. You said you were planning to use an R380 with a short nose LT77 bell housing and input shaft, making it the same length as an LT77 from a Defender. Discovery and RRC LT77s were the same length as all R380s (the 300Tdi Defender engine was much further forward than on previous Defenders). The ZF is about the same length as the R380 or the long nosed LT77 and can't be shortened. You will also need the torque converter and housing to replace the flywheel and flywheel housing.

The steering box is drained by removing the cover plate under the wheel arch (three bolts) and then loosening the lock nut and withdrawing the plug on the side of the box. When refitting, the drain plug acts as the adjuster for the box, pushing the rocker shaft further in against the main nut. The rocker shaft has a fork with bevelled inside edges that engage on the taper of the main nut (which is the part that travels up and down the column's worm gear when the shaft is rotated). If the adjuster/plug is loose, the rocker shaft fork will be loose on the main nut and you will have play in the steering. If you over tighten it, you could damage the rocker shaft, main nut or column. Set is so that you just get rid of the play between the steering wheel and steering box drop arm, and remember to tighten the lock nut. I can't remember the oil capacities, but it's less than 10L to replace the lot 9don't forget the front axle's swivel housings, which are separate from the diff oil.

Delphi or Borg & Beck clutch plates will be fine. The spigot bush on the Tdi is the same as on the SII/SIII.

They can only fit one way. You have a section of angle with a series of drilled holes - that goes along the front edge of the door frame, securing the front end of the fixed pane. There are three pieces of box section corrugated aluminium, two of matching length. Those shorter two go top and bottom behind the fixed pane, the raised box in line with the front pane and outboard, the holed flange inboard and against the edge of the aperture to allow the window seal channel to sit on top of it. The last, longer piece of boxed corrugated strip is for the rear vertical edge, and is fitted in the same manner as the top and bottom strips. You should have some straight, flat strips. These are just packers to make sure the front ends of the top and bottom sections of window channel sit correctly, continuing the height created by the flange on the corrugated box sections so that the window channel is straight and parallel along its full length. There is a cubic rubber block that sits within the front end of the upper channel to prevent the sliding pane hitting the frame. That uses the long screw and washer, the front edge strip uses rounded head screws and the window channel uses countersunk screws. It's worth trial fitting each of the sections and pre-drilling all the screw holes in the channels, ali strips and the frame (not forgetting the lock hole in the bottom channel if it's a SIII) and applying copious amounts of waxoil inside the frame and to the screw holes, channel ends and lock hole and inside the recessed face (after bonding in the fixed frame) of the frame before assembly to keep rust at bay.

Erm, I think you have confused something there. You're putting EP90 (GL5) into an engine? You need to use 10W40 diesel engine oil for a Tdi. If you are referring to using the gear box that was originally fitted to the Tdi's donor vehicle and transplanted into your Series LR, then, as an LT77 or R380, it needs ATF or MTF94.

Put in a new spigot bush for the crank shaft, too - if the original is worn, the primary pinion will be able to wobble, causing some movement in the main shaft too, which can cause the gears to jump out of selection (especially on the over-run). They cost virtually nothing, so it's definitely worth the effort.

Sounds like your diagnosis of the alternator's control pack going wrong is correct. The only other likely alternative is that the warning light has a short somewhere, with it contacting the permanent live feed to the ignition switch, but that wouldn't explain why the light goes out when the switch is on and the engine not running - the light should still be on if the light was getting a feed from the permanent live.