Snagger

The normal screens are available as duplex laminate or as a toughened single pane. The heated screens would be at least duplex, possible triplex. With luck, the elements will be in a reasonably thick vinyl laminate, with glass oneither side, which would be a strong composite. As FF has found, wiring them in series will vastly reduce the current draw, but will also make them very slow to clear the screen, somewhat defeating the purpose. I'd fit them in parallel with a 5min timer relay to prevent excess drain on the electrical system.

They should be wired in parallel, as wiring in series will give a big voltage drop on the second screen and the combined resistance will be too high anyway. The thick end of 50A sounds about right until they warm up and the resistance increases, like FF said. The relay and fuse on my RRC's front screen are prety hefty (60A, I think). If your alternator and other loads on it permit, having the screen heated all the time makes it more resistant to stones - the increased ductility of the warm glass will make it less likely to chip or crack.

The dovetail doesn't take any strain off the hinges, just the lock. It's adjustable, so can be set to take the all the weight on that edge without interfering with the lock's operation. They were fitted in the factory to many vehicles, but not all. My SIII had it, but the Defender County rear door I fit to it (complete with factory spare carrier) does not have the mopunting bracket, and the replacement door trim card lacks the spaces for the bracket. I think it was deleted from one model of the Defender (I suspect the 300Tdi) as a Solihull cost saving measure, but was then re-introduced.

The bonnet hook idea is good because the weight of the spare can prevent the bonnet popping up when you pull the release handle, making opening the bonnet a two-person job. This was the case for me until recently, but my release cable has become stiffer and doesn't spring back all the way, so I can now pull it to release the catch and then go out and lift the bonnet (perhaps the weight of the wheel has damaged the locking mechanism). Using the two hooks (not just used on SII, but on the SI, including the centre steer prototype and all MoD LRs from Si to Wolfs and on also the Camel Trophy 110s) would allow you to remove the standard bonnet catch so that you can open the bonnet single handedly more easily (or you can make a holdin-open device to keep the hanle pulled inside while you go out to lift the bonnet).I found the standard Defender rubbers too tall for use in conjunction with a 7" rim with 235s - it cut too much of my forward vision, and I'm 6'. helena may struggle more than me being 5'4". However, by cutting them down in length and reattaching the "nipples" with black PU adhesive (extremely strong glue), I have lowered the spare to sit justa few mm clear of the bonnet and reclaim about 3/4" of the view. It's still in the way a bit, but doesn't cause any trouble. Mike, I'd be interested to see your modified mounting and strap system - the problem I now have with the standard Defender kit is that having stuck neoprene sheeting to the underside of the retaining ring to prevent damage to the wheel centre's paint, the neopren has compresed and stuck with time and will probably rip the paint away from the wheel. A clampless solution would prevent a reoccurence...

You put 1-shot in because the swivels were leaking. DOn't you rather suspect that the damage was caused by running the swivels dry before using the 1-shot, rather than the grease itself? If LM grease is designated for the prop UJs, why do you think only oil is suitable for the swivel UJs? The centrifugal forces will make sure plenty of 1-shot gets into the bearing cups, and the 1-shot tends to liquify with the thrashing arouind of the mechanical parts anyway - it's only the staic grease arouns the edges (ie. near the seals) that stays viscous. I used 1-shot in my 109 swivels for nearly 100,000 miles, and one side was perfect. the other had a worn UJ, but I'm pretty sure the bulk of the damage was done from running dry with the leaks and oil before I bought it - the swivel pins were in terrible shape when I got the vehicle, and I should probably have changed the Uj back then with the pins. I also had Selctro hubs for about a year, but I never noticed any change to speed, economy or steering loads. There may have been a small increase in acceleration, but it may have been wishful thinking. I binned them because they leaked too, and because I believe them to have absolutely no benefits and to be mechanically damaging (swivel pins and prop shaft slip joint) and a nuisance to engage when 4wd is needed in unanticipated circumstances. I also think they're vulnerable to damage if used with standard wheels and look too ugly.

They fit 109s, with a little trimming of the upper flange of the upright posts behind the B pillar - I fit one to my 109 a few years ago - but they won't fit an 88.

Hi folks. I have bought a 200Tdi front axle and brake master cylinder for retro fit on another vehicle (Series 109). The front callipers have two hoses each. The rear axle (once sourced) will have the standard single pot callipers. Could anyone please tell me how the brake lines are connected up to the callipers and master cylinder (the early RRC used one MC output to each calliper with the other output connected to the upper piston in each front unit, while the Defender uses one port for the front brakes and the other for the rear), and whether there are any pressure regulating valves or failure warning valves in the system? If anyone has any photos of the master cylinder and other engine bay components (if fitted) until the pipework routes away to the chassis, then I'd really love to see them. Thanks.

You can remove the boost line to the pump. You can't plug the end connected to the turbo because a bung would be forced out, but plugging the port on the pump will prevent dirt ingress. fuel doesn't go near the diaphragm, so don't worry about fuel leaks.

Remember to get the speedo recallibrated if you change the diffs or tyre diameter, or you'll be going much faster than you think. The HRTC and overdrive don't affect speedo callibration.

I'm still using mine - it gets used all year round for my commute and for other tasks too.

OK, thanks for letting me know, anyway.

By the way, Rob, I'm still intending to buy thos ewheels from you, but you were going to get back to me with a close-up of the corroded bit first.

I can't see any issue with using the existing damper mountings and fitting a good brand like DeCarbon or OME. Just make sure you get the correct type when you order them, ie. EAS type. The EAS spec dampers will cope fine with the coils - the range of movement on coil and EAS vehicles is about the same, but coi spec dampers may not fit the mountings or may be of a different length.

I suspect the squeak is a failing pro shaft UJ.

I have cloth covered Defender seats in my 109. I haven't re-covered them, but I did replace the bottom foams on the front pair (I have a second matching pair of front seats as a second row). Unfortunately I used Britpart cushions, so they have started to sag again. I did fit Exmoor Trim's seat heater kit, though. They're not made by ET, just sold by them. I had already put a set into my RRC, and so fitting them to the 109 wasn't a new job. Both sets have pads for the seat back as well as the base cushion. The newer kits have two heat settings, so have two heating elements per pad (one on for low, both on for high). In the RRC, the wiring loom was already in place. I just needed to add the correct LR switches to the panel on the cubby box and connect the heater pads to the wiring under the seat frame. As the LR plug was a special type, the easiest solution was to cut the plug off and splice the heater pad wiring directly to the vehicle's loom. The wiring and switches from the kit went in the bin. The 109 was a bit trickier, not having any of the wiring in place. The pads were fitted by removing the bottom cushions' cover completely, as above, and the backs' covers being unclipped at the bottom and slipped up as high as the slot in the foam for the three hooks. The kit includes double-sided tape, but you could use spray glue. Once the pads were stuck to the cushions, the covers were refitted. Wiring up the heaters on the Defender (or LR) could be done simply using the kit - everything is there - but I wanted to use direct feeds from the auxiliary battery and use the three position Carling Tech switches on the centre dash rather than the small button-switches in the kit. This also meant I could ditch the kit's relay as the Carling switches are rated to 20A. I just had to run the wiring from the middle switch position to one of the pad circuits and the the output of the other switch position to both circuits, connecting the common cable to earth. The only issue with doing this is that the way the kit is constructed, the common connection on the pads is live, with one or both circuits being earthed by the switch. The only reason I altered the polarity was so that the warning light in the Carling switches would work. The heaters are brilliant, and get really toasty within a couple of minutes. They're definitely worth fitting if you have to put up with cold weather in winter like the UK.

I had to replace the discs on my RRC (vented on the front) as they had rusted around the edges, eroding the pads and thus reducing the braking area to about 75% of normal. I rpelaced the rears first (they were the worst) followed by the front, using the dimpled and grooved EBC discs and Green Stuff pads, followed a month or so later by the front brakes (same, but vented). this had the added benefit of getting around the 200 mile bedding in period by having one set of brakes fully bedded in while the others were new. They seem very effective, especially once bedded-in - they do have a noticeable difference over that time, starting off slighly better than my knackered brakes (which were still good enough to pass the MoT, but never take chances with them) but soon becoming 50% more effective, as a rough estimate. The only trouble I have had with them is the pads rattling in the front callipers - the late Classic has coil springs around the retaining pins, and these do little to prevent rattling pads. I need a set of the early type which are nearly straight wires of spring steel with a king in the middle that hooks around the tang on the edge of the pad.

Three of each (one of each for the track rod, the drag link and longitudinal link). The trick is to make sure the threads are right - most had Imperial threads, but the very late SIIIs have metric.

The standard SIII and Defender castor angle is 3o, if I'm not mistaken, so you should have strong self centring and plenty of directional satbility, but slow speed cornering may be heavy at the steering wheel. Sorry about the sloppy typing on my previous post. I love that link, Hoggy - scary and hilarious at the same time. You can just imagine the red baseball caps, plaid shirts, mirrored sunglasses and scgraggy facial fluff.

It all looks very neat and strong, but you still have the reversed Ackerman angle problem because the cast steering arms that you are usinga re canted inwars, so the track rod is shorter than the distance between the swivel pins.

Your first post reports the front wheel binding, but the later post reports it as a rear brake binding. can you clarify which it is, and what vehicle and brake system you have (88 or 109, 10" brakes or 11", dual circuit or single, etc...). For what it's worth, if it's only happening when the vehicle is carrying a load, it could be a failing flexible hose that is blocking the return flow when the suspension is squatting slightly, or a failing wheel bearing that is seizing under the increased weight.

I think that bwould have to be custom built, as the internal and external systems would share the same mountings. I can't see there being much of a strength advantage in having two cages either - as long as you have a well made cross braced cage, it should take the wight of a roll without the need for a back-up. remember, the more of this tubing you fit, the more likely you are to roll in the first place.

There's your answer. It's not the springs but the tall tyres that are upsetting the handling. As for the polys, I've not tried them and never will - I've seen too many photos of sheared radius arm studs and worn components from rit ingress from the non-bonded, loose fitting bushes. The fact that even Bowler recommend standard bushes tells me all I need to know.

I had a look, and that's truly awful. Apart from the negative Ackerman angles he'll have by putting the track rod on the front using the original steering arms (and that will pose problems with those tyres), going for a 15o castor angle instead of the factory 3o to raise the track rod is going to give such strong self centring that the car will be near-undriveable. The PAS will help, but he'll have no feel at all, and I reckon he'll be shearing rod ends or even snapping the steering arms off the swivels, such will be the combined forces of the big tyres, the bad Ackerman, the excessive straight-line stability and the rock crawling.

There are another couple of points against spacers, other than a general perception (rightly or wrongly) of them being dangerous: 1) they have a habit of the nuts securing them coming loose, so you have to frequently remove the wheel to re-tighten them. Though the inside of the wheel will prevent the nuts undoing far enough that the spacer and wheel could come off, they will allow the spacer and wheel to move and knock on the studs and hub, which could eventually result in the studs shearing, and; 2) it's a pain to service the brakes because you have to remove the spacers from the hubs too, which means twice as many nuts, and undoing the spacer nuts is a bugger because the hub just spins because there is no tyre contacting the ground to keep it still - you need to lock the brake on using the shoe adjusters.

Thanks, fellas, I'll give the 10K a go.