weasel_110

Agree Si, have been at this from dinner time mate! Got a link for you, do you reckon this will do the trick? and it took some finding! http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M20-x-1-50-x-14mm-Pipe-Plug-DIN-908-A4-70_AICDY.aspx I will be finding out for sure tomorrow what thread it is but I think it is, like you say, M20 x 1.5

Thanks for the quick reply chaps and its my fault, I tried to put in the title 'Mines not 3/4 BSP!' Hi Si, I got one free from you about 3 years ago with the X-Fan kit..... Here's another pic....

Doing me head...been all round the place today asking peeps what the thread is! Going to specialist fastener place tomorrow, they should be able to tell me! Here's the pic..The thread width is 20mm... Thanks!

Simon, you're a STAR!!!! Works perfectly! Many Thanks Gary

Cheers for that mate, drilling now! Will get back to you.... Ta Gary

Hi Simon, these for the super fast reply, do you mean these marked/ They look like a crimp with the wire broken off? Thanks Gary

Hi Chaps1 I am without the 'W' wire connection on my Bosch Mondeo alternator to connect to a Rev counter on my 200 TDi. I have found info here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=9408 but I just want some confirmation as it is a different make of alternator, mine is a Bosch 90Amp BB93-10300-AE from a Mondeo 1.8. I dont know whether 1,2 & 3 are mounting bolts or from the windings? Here is the pic. Any help welcome! Regards Gary

Hi David, Many thanks for taking the time to reply! As I said, I do not have the Disco wiring diagram, only the Defender one.... I stripped the Tach out of the binnacle and found 3 connections to it, one is an Ignition, the middle is unknown but presumably from the Alternator 'W' feed, and the last one is the Earth. Here are the pics... Thanks again! Gary

Hi Chaps! Last year i had a 200 TDi engine and transfer box (2nd hand) fitted to my '89 110 TD. I recently gave my mate a lift who has a Heavily modded 90/200 TDi and he commented on how high it revved... As I am a bit disappointed about the 24 MPG I am getting, I wondered about the T/box and found it was a Disco box 1.22 ratio, instead of a Defender 1.41. So I started making enquires to fit a rev counter and finally bought a Disco 1 set of clocks for £18 off Ebay. As I only have a Haynes TD manual, I need to know which connector on the binnacle to wire to the 'W' connector on my alternator,also which connector is the earth? I am not installing the binnacle. I just want to know how it is revving at certain speeds, I have been told it should do 3 thou @ 80 MPH. Any advice appreciated! Cheers Gary

I have seen this topic on this forum but a search cannot find it..... Does the water flow from the pipe on the 'stat housing into the heater matrix or, does it flow into heater from the pipe at the back of the head? Thanks in advance! Cheers Gary

Have to agree about changing it every year....mine was only starting to warm up after 10/15 miles, so I thought for the cost, it was worth a try. The one I took out had the rubber seal displaced, new one in and the needle starts to climb now after a mile and, half way to work heater is toasty! Best fiver I have ever spent on the Landie! Cheers Gary

Ta for the plug Steve! Here it is Ben.... It started of as an idea,turned into a challenge, then went beyond the point of no return! It was a pain to do really, but I wasn't going to be beaten! First thing I had to do was re-locate spare wheel into the left hand side behind the passenger seat, I did get a quote for a custom made well out of alloy for £70 but I thought that was a bit pricey! Then a search found that Land Rover do one anyway for a 110! It is galvanized and cost £48 from the main dealer. Out with the jig saw ; ). Then I bought some Range Rover P38 gas struts and looked on Ebay for a pair of boot catches (Ford Ka) which would suit my solenoid locking idea, it is operated off the 'trunk' opening function on my alarm and opens with the fob (which I really like!) Then the hardest job was to find some hinges that would clear the gutter on the bottom of the roof. Again on Ebay,I found some that could be cut and welded to suit, they are off a LDV/Talbot van here Cut like this below (machined off) Then to this To end up with two off of this Then put the other side in place and weld to a piece of flat bar (so they are in line) I had to bolt two pieces of 2" angle iron behind the hinges at the back of the roof and then bolt them to the door lip for strength.... I used my original battered door to practice on, then when it was all ok, fitted a 2nd hand 'straight' door bought off Ebay locally..... That is all the pics I have at the mo as my hard drive controller card went pop! I think the rest of the pics are on there Ben, but you get the idea? Positioning the struts was a pain but if you do have a go with them, I can give you the mounting hole measurements etc.. Regards Gary

I may try that Red as some of the carpet is coming away now! Cheers Gary

Thanks for the pics Alfaman... Great idea and well done! Cheers Gary

Hi Chaps! I have tried to use the closed cell faom, but didn't have much luck with it, it fell off in about 12months, I think the problem was that, as it is closed cell, the glue won't penetrate to give a good bond! So I insulated my 110 Hard top with Thermal Bubble Wrap, it has an Aluminium foil on both sides, here are a few examples off Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Campervan-Motorhome-...%3A1|240%3A1318 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50-SQM-THERMAWRAP-DO...%3A1|240%3A1318 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALUBUBBBLE-FOIL-INSU...%3A1|240%3A1318 It claims to give the equivalent insulation of 200mm of Rockwool! I thought that will do for me! So I bought two cans of Dunlop Trim spray adhesive and a roll long enough to do the roof and sides, the roll I got was 1.5 M wide. I must say, it was a POP to fit and I am really pleased with the result! I then recovered my headlining with this http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1359-brush...headlining.aspx from Woolies Trim, and lined a couple of pieces of 5mm plywood with interior carpet for the sides. the result, I am sure mine is the last car in the car park to freeze over, and in the summer, it is not stinking hot inside! In fact, I am so made up with the stuff, I spent about £130 on a roll big enough to do the loft, again, really easy to do. just hang it in place with a staple gun! Heres a couple of pics.... Cheers!

Many Thanks for the encouragement Bowie!..... Cheers Gary

Hi Adrian, I have just fitted a Mondeo 90 amp alt to my 200 TDi last week... Write up here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36578 Cheers Gary

Sorry, not used to it yet! Cheers Gary

Bob, don't have one! Cheers Gary

Hi again chaps! Originally the alt adjusting bracket was mounted behind the power steering pump mounting plate and the alternator lug, I decided reverse the adjusting bracket and put it in front of the mounting plate and alt lug.see pic below Now then, the biggest problem was tightening the bolt and nut once the belt was at the correct tension, there was NO way I could get a spanner behind the alt mounting plate and tighten the bolt up! So what I did was drill and tap an 8mm thread in a narrow piece of flat bar 3½" long.see pic below I managed to get this behind the mounting plate and screw the bolt in. This hangs down behind the mounting plate and as you tighten it, butts up against the power steering pump and locks the belt tension bracket solid. I was very pleased with this! Here is a pic of the completed job below All I had to do with the connection side was extend the charge light wire by about 4" see below. Once I'd checked everything was tight, I replace the air filter and fired it up. My dash voltmeter showed 14v on tickover, so job a success! My battery is now on charge as it has taken a hammering going to and from work in the dark, the journey is not far enough to put in what I take out! Hope this will prove helpful to anyone wanting to upgrade there alternator for a more modern one than our Landie stuff, I was tempted to go for a 300 TDi 100 amp one but for £20 quid v £80+ it was NO contest! Apologies for the poor pic quality,I could find my camera charger and had to use my phone! Regards Gary

Hi Chaps, I finally got around to doing this yesterday, it took me about 4 hours with a lot of fiddling! With a 200TDi Disco engine in my '89 110 H/top, the alternator is a right pain to adjust! Power steering pump and belt first, then tighten the alternator belt... The first job was to get the old 65 amp unit off, the adjuster bracket was cracked and the tensioning bolt on the alternator was seized solid, an impossible job to undo with it in place! First, I removed the air filter housing to give better access,then I slackened off the power steering pump tension first, using plenty of Plus Gas as the pump mounting plate was seized to the engine mounting bracket then,I removed the water pump pulley to get the belt off as this is in front of the alternator belt. Then I undid the alt adjuster bracket mounting bolt and left the bracket on the alternator, then removed the long mounting bolt and undid the alt wires and lifted out the alternator. My next job was to weld the split in the adjuster bracket.pic The alternator I got from my local breakers for £20, it is the Bosch 14V 90 amp one which delivers 65amp on idle,90 amp running, and is from a Mondeo 1.8 16 valve, I think the year is 1994 but the part number is 93BB-10300-AE, see pic below I removed the serpentine pulley using a 24mm ring spanner and a torx bit, the best way I found was to put the bit on a ratchet and clamp it in the vice like so.see pic below When I put the old pulley on the new alt it rubbed on the body so I used the 4mm thick spacer off the old alt to stop this, I didn't tighten it up at this stage as I didn't know if the belts/pulleys would line up!. The old alternator has 8mm mounting holes and the Mondeo one has 10mm, so my good mate,Timpo drilled out a piece of 10mm stainless pipe to 8mm ID, which I then cut into 3, 14mm long pieces to sleeve the holes.see pic below The adjuster sleeve in the new alt had to be pressed out further to fit onto the 200 TDi mounting bracket, I used an 18mm socket and the vice.see pic below Here is the alt mounted on the engine.see pic below Heres looking at the pulley alignment below Seems fair enough but I checked with a straight edge, below Go to Part 2 as I have run out of pic space!

Hello Chaps, just thought I would share yesterdays front suspension swap... My 110 3-door has always been 'nose down' and I have wondered whether new springs would put it level... Reading somewhere on this forum, it was my impression that it was thought it should look the way it did, a few pics showed the bottom part of the springs as 'coil bound' some members said that was normal, others said they were knackered. Here is a pic of mine before I started, I measured the length (before I jacked it up) and this showed 10½"... ↓ measured from here ↓ I also measured the distance between the bump stop and the axle, which was 2¼" ↓ I then jacked up the chassis on a piece of sleeper and axle stands (after slackening wheel nuts!) Removed expansion tank to one side and took off the cover ↓ Following excellent LR4X4 advice, I didn't even try to undo the turret nuts and just sheared them off,going well so far until, I came to undo the bottom shock nut.... I had soaked all the nuts in PlusGas a few days before but it wouldn't budge! Had a pair of Stillies (Thanks Ba!) on the damper but eventually rounded the nut Good style! After trying to cut through the bolt at the bottom of the damper with my Crocodile saw in between the coils I gave up and thought 'Who has got a cutting torch?' when I had a brainwave.... I drilled two holes in the nut ↓ then wellied it with a chisel! Result! What a relief! ↓ I prised off the turret and this is what I found....(A good job I'd bought new turrets!) ↓ Wire brushed top and bottom mountings ↓ and then waxoiled them ↓ got the new spring out of the box and was a bit disappointed it was the same height as the old one. I had ordered standard height,heavy duty Britpart ones with their new Cellular Dynamic Front Shock absorbers DC6000 ↓ I fitted the spring and didn't need the spring compressors I borrowed from my mate Timpo (Thanks for the lend of your Jack!), it was getting dark by now so I packed up for the day...... The next day, not raining luckily! I fitted the damper into the newly sprayed and waxoiled inside turret ↓ I had made a tool by filing a square holed spanner with a rat tail to grip the bottom of the damper shaft while I tightened the bottom nut. ↓ Now I was ready to tackle the nearside..... I snapped off the four turret nuts and drilled the bottom nut as yesterday, I had the damper and spring out in 15 minutes !!! The spring just pulled out with no compressors by the way! This was the difference in height for your interest... ↓ Finished fitting new spring and damper etc..... I sprayed the nuts in the turret tops with oil and covered them over with mastic flashing tape. ↓ Boxed everything up and was REALLY pleased when I dropped the Landie down onto the drive, it HAD lifted the front end up, by 1¾" and was now sitting level as I had hoped for! The gap between axle and bump stop was now 4"... ↓ WELL PLEASED! ↓ Cheers Gary

Hi Chaps, I have been watching this on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=220293919940 The Guy doesnt seem to have any more in stock at the mo. Apparently the latest on the market and doesn't require a phone line/internet connection, just a pay as you go sim. I think this is the way to go, let you know as soon as there is any activity..... A pic of it.. Cheers Gary

HA HA! "Where's my Doctor?" and "It is by will alone I set my mind in motion. It is by the juice of Sapho that thoughts acquire speed, the lips acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by will alone I set my mind in motion."