Early90

Hi Andy, It is so nice to see an unmolested Ninety! Mine looked very similar to yours Three years ago when i got it,same non opening rear side windows too. Your truck has had a respray/panels changed at some time as the cappings in 1985 were still Galv and not painted and the doors had cappings on them too. Welcome Here`s mine before i bought it

Hi Jim, there`s a guy just like you on LRa sorry, i thought it might be you but was not sure...err...

...ready to be shot down here....after fitting my master cylinder i called mrs early90 to help, 5 mins later divorce pending she`s back indoors. The pedal was soft but would get hard after two or three pumps so i could use the truck untill i had time to sort it,so i did and found the clutch getting better so i sat in it and pumped away untill it bled itself!! I do not understand it but it worked for me and i`ve since heard from one of the South African guys on LRa that he does this all the time!

after market ones here http://www.lasalle-trim.co.uk/ Others do them too,can`t remember where i`ve seen them though.

You can only slow them down a bit,you can`t stop them if they want them. on a high street near you http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...ategoryId_71555

You have a P.M.

Hi David, i didn`t mean the anti run on solenoid that is connected to the inlet manifold, i was meaning the solenoid on the fuel inlet side of the carb itself.The vapour outlet on mine has a piece of fuel hose dangling er i mean neatly cable tied down the inner wing. Cheers, John

......as Les says a filter of some kind.Presuming you have a twin choke webber on your 2.5 there are only three connections,fuel inlet,a vacuum connection and a vent for the float chamber controlled by a solenoid when the engine is switched off......i reckon it is connected there. I would like to see a pic of the plumbing,just curious. When you have identified what it is you can throw it away

No. The float chamber is where the carb stores petrol,you access it on your carb by removing the elbow(air filter pipe) then removing the top of the carb by undoing the screws around the edge,you can see where the carb splits . Possibly,depends on the symptoms and if everything else has been checked ok. I have had those symptoms with my 2 1/4 and i have found a variety of faults incl faulty carb,inlet manifold leak,fuel delivery problem,all were intermittent in nature,some would only show themselves under extra load like on a big hill! sometimes only on over run etc Only if you do something stupid when cleaning the carb or over tighten the carb back on to the manifold or bend the floats or lose something...i think that covers it. Best thing would be to spend 20 ish motorway minutes missfiring down the m40 to my house one day soon, I`m home by 2pm most days,midday on a good day....i have the book on that carb,loads of diagrams and descipion of all the fuel circuits and the few settings you can make,i can get them scanned for you. I also have a scrap carb you can borrow to take apart and play with. Cheers, John

Hi Steve, How did you get on? John

Hi Steve,it does sound like it could be carp floating about in the carb,it could be other things too! Your carb has no heater. If you want to check the jets then take the black elbow off the top of the carb and look down into the carb.Between the two openings in the centre are four brass screw heads, these are your jets.Just unscrew them,you can then seperate the parts and clean them.I have found that these webbers tend to block because of a piece of debris in the float chamber,it gets sucked to the channel that supplies the main jets.You can check this by just removing the carb upper body with it still on the vehicle. John

simple electronic ignition,cheap and a noticable improvement over points.

just checked the price £56 more than i paid for my truck

Hi, Im about to do the same with a 2.5 to replace my 2.25. I have no first hand experience of either company but i`ve done a bit of asking around and made my mind up to go with Turners. When i asked my local independant Lr man about ACR he reckoned they were compromised of road because of the reason given above.Most of my research mirrored the above answers but there is tons of info out there on tuning the 2.25, including distributerless ignition (ACR do it) and E.F.I !! This thread is well known and quite a read.... http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=46415.0 Good luck with your project John

...as above,just fitted Delphi to my 1984 90, a few quid but saves doing it again soon and buys peace of mind too. Cheers, John.

I fitted mine last week,a huge improvement over sealed beam.I should have done it sooner.

Sacrificial bodywork......... edited because i posted wrong pic

try here...... http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/nonmetallic.html

Hi Steve,You have a webber 32/34 DMTL. The solenoid facing the front of the truck vents the float chamber when the ignition is off ,when you turn the ignition on the solenoid plugs the vent,that`s all so the engine will run fine even if the solenoid is faulty. The solenoid on the passenger side of the carb is the idle cut off valve,its purpose is to prevent `run on ` so when the ignition is switched off the solenoid plunger blocks the fuel channel in the idle circuit...to check it ...with your engine warm and ticking over remove the supply to the solenoid and your engine should stop UNLESS it is so badly set up that the throttle stop has been wound round to provide a tick over...... Hope that helps,give me a nudge on here when you are ready to come round and check your timing ,48 hrs notice would be nice as we had a new Grandchild for Christmas so are a little busier than usual. Cheers, John.

I received an assortment of stainless steel screws,an Exmoor trim cubby,some halogen headlights and a FLAT red top Optima ,all items carefully hinted at in november,my idea being that the whole lot could be fitted in an hour and would not add to my pile of parts and things to do list.........i do have one thing to do...return the battery to Paddocks!

Thanks for all the replies,very helpful. To answer questions,it`s a red top Optima from Paddocks and it shows 11v . I think i`ll go for a refund rather than a replacement Optima as my confidence in them is a bit shattered. Am i wrong? two duff red tops received by nicksmelly also has made me think............any suggestions?

Hi folks. I finished work early today and decided to fit the shiny new battery that mrs Early90 placed under the Xmas tree for me.......to find it flat as a witches titanium ironing board....petrol pump ran and then starter engaged but engine did not turn at all. I cannot check the battery as i only have a multimeter,so this has left me thinking i have a duff battery......every battery i have bought has been fully charged(i don`t really know that,but i fitted them all and forgot about them) and i know the Bosch warehouse up the road from me charges the varta automotive batteries they hold in stock so why would i receive a flat `un ? I know santa got it posted, do batteries have to be discharged to post? I can get it checked tomorrow but would like your opinions please,anyone bought an optima battery that needs charging from new? Thanks John

Steve, adjusting your points gap shifts the timing, so whenever you set your points you then need to check your timing. When i had points fitted i used to set them to the correct dwell angle rather than use a feeler guage,my timing light does dwell angle.You are 20 mins away from me and the whole thing is about 15 mins work........i would be happy to help, it was voodoo to me once too! John

Hi Steve, cheap lucas type distributors are less than twenty quid and i can recomend this http://lewis4x4.co.uk/shop.asp?ItemID=537&...category=Engine part no etc5835k available from £10 -£20 depending on where you shop! I`ve had mine fitted since may and has been reliable so far,my timing light now gathers dust.My local dealer reports a few failures but they are usually associated with coil problems , i use a lucas sports coil with mine but carry a spare coil and ignition module. I`m just up the road in Uxbridge if you want to drop by and set it up properly. Oh and don`t worry about the mpg......the peace and quiet is well worth it

Thanks for all the replies.I have a new Richards chassis and i want to stamp the chassis no. in the correct place and the correct size. My old chassis was on the floor of someones workshop last time i saw it and is now probably in China. I want to do it for security reasons,i also intend to stamp it in at least two other places known only to me. I agree if i make a hash of it but a properly stamped in no. directly on the chassis rail has got to look more genuine than a transferable plate or no number at all, i think. I have all the paperwork too Jim. The original vin plate is intact and in place under the bonnet,i only want to stamp the chassis no. onto a new chassis so it looks `factory` Cheers, What font? only joking,i`ll measure up before ordering my stamps, thanks again. John.