Stevie D

As it says^^^^ Its just a matter of time before I end up stick too far away from a suitable tree The neigbours will talk about me for years if I need to go and beg a tractor to pull the 110 out of a bog hole... Cheers Steve

Cheers Les - just reading your stuff in the tech archive, should have read it earlier How can I tell which drive member I'll need - not sure if the entire axle has been swapped or whatever, what's the difference in the early / late versions, frc 5806 / ruc 105200 - number of splines?

Like these ones - anybody? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4473 Cheers. Steve

I had to strip one of the swivels today to try and replace the bearings, found that the older type of top bearing had been fitted in the past? Is there any advantage in changing back again to the newer taper roller baring type, the upper pin is scrap anyways, as is the the ball, it has a few bits of the chrome coming off - are the two systems interchangable, which is more robust? I was going to mail order the stuff from paddocks I'm travelling this week coming and don't have the time to go round the local places - anybody know what the quality is like, also anybody tried the camber compensating type http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/A...m_LA930456.html Cheers Folks? Steve

Thanks, wan't sure how to compare the manual for the 235/85 pressures for the bigger tyres. They are 30ish fron t and rear at the moment - I'll up the rears to 48 next time it's loaded with the trailer on and use the chalk trick . Cheers. Steve

Thanks Folks, I'll look into the options - I have a couple of oil safe 2 litres cans already - but unfortunatley the pump isn't compatible with them - pump is a bit expensive, i'll try the weed spray or waxoil next time!

Did a big service over the weekend past - first time I'd done the gearbox oils etc, had only done an engine oil change in the past on the truck. What a palava getting the oil into the main gearbox, I wasn't properly prepared, only had a 1 ltr bottle with a flexi filler neck thing, so had to decant from the big drum into that several times, but still ended up with atf running down my arm , and dripping off the crossmember What's the recomened tool for the job? Thanks, Steve

I've had these on for a few months now and am very pleased, but more recently have had the truck well loaded up with tools and camping stuff, and need to up the rear pressures a bit - what would you recommend. It's a 110 CSW 300TDI, with roof rack and roof tent as well as all the heavy gear in the back. It drives perfectly well unladen. Cheers. Steve

Sorry folks my computer was acting up and I've ended up posting 3 times - would one of the mods please delete 2 of the threads.

As it says^^^^ I want to mount a cooker to my rear door for camping - I've seen photos of them in various places etc. but who sells a good one with the raised welded bits to cover the door lock, door retainer, and electrical socket bit? Its doesn't have to be checker plate - i don't really like the stuff, or will it be easier to get a sheet of ali and get one fabricated myself, then it will come already constumised to have a fold down shelf and windbreaks etc? Thanks as always! Steve

I thoght that would be the case - just checking - Cheers.

Should / could I use a 110ah lesuire battery for the winch - my logic tells me that the high current draw may fry it. Perhaps just connect the winch to the main starter battery as suggested above? Steve

Thanks folks. My local specialist has also suggested possibly that I try +4" dampers, I need to jack up the rear and measure the axle articulation both with and without the damper, he thinks the axle is hangiong on the dampers causing the failures?? Anybody else use this combo? Whats the idea of dual rear shocks - is that to resolve this problem too? Steve

I've just bought an ex display fiamma caravanstore 3 mtr awnng for this very purpose, only£50. They come up on ebay fairly regularily, or in the f35 version which is in a hard shell like this one.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=003 Steve

Are these a straight bolt on or do I have to start changing the mounts etc? I've heard of Old Man Emu stuff - I'll do a search. Thanks, Guys..

Both my rear shocks are leaking - one is now completely shot and the ride has gone pretty bumpy, as well as exibiting a bit of steering from the back sort of behaviour when on bendy country roads, or under sudden braking . I need to replace the bushes and get new shocks, I think they are procomps there at the moment? Who else does shocks for a 2" lift - I guess stock ones won't fit / will offer less than ideal articulation. Is it a case of you get what you pay for, or will de carbon etc be much improved, especially on th twisty irish roads Also which bushes are likely to need done at the back end, trailing arms etc? Thank, Steve

Or a basic dimensioned drawing? Looks like I'll be doing some measuring this weekend then

As it says, before i go out and take one off the truck to start measuring to get the profile correct, i want to make some new lazer cut sides for my sankey and wanted to add some spats to cover the slightly increased track with the wolf wheels and 235 tyres. Cheers, Steve

Thank folks, sorted now, took a few times, but eventually the pedal came back to almost correct feeling, then a rest for a coffe and lunch, then a drive and its seems fine now? Strange? Cheers Steve

Cheers I'll try these methods, perhaps trying to bleed/prime the master cylinder 1st, was just getting squelching noises. Thanks, Steve

Afer a few weeks of repeatetly topping a leaky on up, I've replaced the leaky one with a new lucas one. Now I can't get it bled, whats the secret? Cheers, Steve.

Cheers Folks - the 255/85's are ordered - expensive buggers Cheers, Steve

Sorry to dig this up again! I've dicovered that I'm using the 110 a whole lot more that I had expected or planned when I bought it 3 months ago - almost a daily driver now :-) I'm foing quite a bit of on road use as opposed to my original 50/50 plan. I was going to buy bfg MT's in the 255/85/16 guise to go on my new genuine wolf rims, off being painted as we speak. My current wheels have mihelin 235/85/16 4x4 off road tyres fitted and these are very noisy - considering this I assume the bfg's will be noisy too, so was considering trying the kuhmo kl71's. They are only available in 235 or 265 sizes, as are bfg at's. Will the wolf rim accomodate the 265 tyre of should i stick t the 235? The 110 has a 2" lift and the 235's look a bit feeble under the arches. Anybody running 265's on these rims. Thanks, Steve

Before I put the back hubs back together - I'll change the pads. Local suppliers have Genuine LR, Mintex or Ferrodo? Any differences, personal preferance would be ferrodo from other cars vehicles, any reason not to pick them? From a '97 300tdi 110 csw. I beleive there are different types too - I'll take one with me Cheers Steve

Now sorted out - thanks for all the advice, used a bit form it all. Used the old drive member as a jig to drill the centres with a 10.2mm drill bit, then a centre drill followed by a 4 mm, then the hot spanner to break the bong, folled by an easy out. All sorted now and a 10mm tap run down the threads for good measure. Steve