Stevie D

From past experience it's just a short tail with a round multiplug, passes through the factory grommet on the rhs / os rear floor behing the fuel filler buldge. There's a female recepticle on the main loom behind the rear interior qtr panels. Not sure when if they started to fit as standard? Nor if it's just a splice into the rear loom. Don't think there's any additional control unit - just the special flashet unit. HTH Steve

Dirty / Sticky bendix gear or has the auto got a preengaged starter? Steve

Excellent! Out of interest did the rods have a multicored flux built in ? Steve

I beleive it falls within the 6"of a body or seatbelt mount rule & manufactured standard or higher- seat belts for the rear pass through the floor to the chassis, and are mounted to the rear inner guards and the two dickie seats in the back are on the rear qtrs Gazzer, sure the slightly older range rover classics had a aluminium floor riveted in afaik. Steve

Remember learing internal thread cutting as an apprentice doing my c&g in turning / milling etc, at a goverment training centre a long time ago - there used to be some b&st&rd standing watching - when you got to the nervous bit of standing on the foot brake at the bottom of the thread they'd smake the splash gayd with something for good measure, inevitabley you'd smash a few jobs lol...

I think gwyn lweis or teffarima do a top mount to accomodate this sort of se-tup - so can't see any reason why they won't come in a shorter flavour of shock, think some of the jap stuff uses pin to pin as standard - but I'm sure a grown up will be along shortly to confirm lol I think the eye screws off my bearmach 'tuff back shocks' they do come in smaller than 5" afaik

Yes but everything is cheap in Livigno lol... Loveley pictures and memorable routes I'm sure! Thanks for sharing. Steve

I've recently bought new in packet left and rights genuine LR items of the bay of e for less than a tenner each, so if your not in a hurry keep an eye out. Steve

Strip it, get it media / abrasive blasted and galvanised! Do what you can / have space to do yourself to save cash. Alternativley, get a cup wire brush for the 4 1/2" grinder, some overalls, protetive glasses and gloves and clean, treat paint as required. Have fun. Steve

Wasn't there a known issue with the fuel pipes chaffing on the chassis above the tank on the eralier d2's?

Yep it does thanks - there obvoiously is a spacer invloved - I'll get a few made up. Cheers Steve

If you are going to take it out the powerwasher works a treat, but don't get the back too wet! Steve

Anybody know how these were put on originally - I know they're a pain in the backside, but the kids need it to get in the back, climb on the ladder etc. I've no Idea how it should fit, so going to get some 3/4" brass stock machined to make a couple of spacers to go inside the plastic bushes, then long 10mm high temsile bolt through the towbar mount with big repair washers? I had a link to a site with all the original LR accessories installation instructionsbut have lost it. A photo or somethiong would be helpful. Thanks, Steve

Very well diluted traffic film remover works a treat with a scrubbing brush for heavier dirt - is it the felt or the plastic type you have?

Had a few recommended but not as warm as a caravan, big improvement over a tent. Biggest problem I ever had was egtting the canvas drid before packing away. Conway criuser etc is the way to go - up in a few minutes, lots of them about for parts , awnins etc readily available if you need extra party space - but time consuming to put up. Steve

Alot of cash for what's tecnically a cat c write off, and lots of little bits and pieces not finished lol... Nice truck though. Steve

Is that not part of the rear cross member -albeit probably without the little raised brackets and white plastic bits you refer to - probably need to salvage what you can off the old one. Steve

There was some parts on ebay last week.

Relied to your PM - you can have the entire welder if it's any ggod to you - I've upgraded to a semi industrial machine, and the other old one (spare) is in my way, lol. I'll be home most of the weekend, I'll send you my mobile no. Steve

Ards Pennisula!

I've a spare parts machine here sealy super mig 150 amp, the circuit baord is good akaik, the little drive gearbox is scrap. Steve

This one has popped up on ebay again.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-TDI-1994-Fire-rescue-service-vehicle-truck-MOT-free-tax-/221115351898?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item337b80835a

Mike It's good for stuborn stuff, but as yourself & CwazyWabbit have suggested it often has a mind of it's own lol.. But will split real knotty stuff. 70% of what I cut / split & burn is ash - so the axe is usually alot faster.

I've a tractor mounted / hydraulic powered one, unfortunatley 150 miles away afrom where I live, on the mother in laws farm. It can struggle sometimes and isn't the quickeset of things tbh so I think you'd prob struggle running it off the steering pump. I'd vote for a setup like mikec has ^^^^^^, thinking about making something similar myself so mine can be dual purpose / adaptable & becomes portable, I've a spare 4 stroke engine stiing here and the reains of an old trailer chassis to bolt it too. Otherwise if I run out of time at the farm /or wood whilst at home for the log burner I use a combination of large felling axe, log grenade (google it), sledge, chopping block ( nice comfortable height) with an old tyre on it to stop the log falling off - much better than splitting maul . Steve

Haven't we all! http://www.ebay.co.u...1423.l2649#shId it has gone up in price - I paid £20 +vat for a LR branded 5ltrs 2 years ago - ouch! Mind you normal engine oil etc has rocketed too in line with the price of a barrel of crude!