Stevie D

Seems like it broke for a reason - I was meant to strip the rear hub down! The lock nut and main hub bearing nut were only finger tight, good job really as my biggest socket isn't big enough lol... This os possibly where the bearing noise was coming from. The inner brake pad only has a mm or so left on it as well. Have to go visit a landy friend now to borrow one of the splined sockets to get the caliper off. So I'll just go get a new set of bearings and pads in the morning and possibly the replacement hub as well. Presume they are taper roller type bearings for that sort of load and the adjustment method described in the manual? Off a 300 tdi defender 110 Jim - thanks for the offer.

Cheers Mo, yes the landy in question is being broken so not a problem getting just a hub, I've got a few small bits and pieces off it already. I'll try the pillar drill in an hour of so and see how i get on. Steve

My thoghts exectly - hence my reluctance to crry on further with tht plan this afternoon - unfortunatly they are all broken well into the holes, and my question about the td5 style rear axle hub cica 2004? Cheers for the advice folks. Steve..

Whilst changing the rear drive members to get rid of some excessive backlash I've managed to break 2 bolts whilst getting them out - well stuck. One side was easy - had been out before I reckon with blue thread lock on the screws - a few were bolts were very tight. Drivers side was really really tight, 1st screw came out OK then the next one broke , then next one beside it broke . The rest came out OK and it's all back together for now al be it with only 2 crews as another one sheared off on the way back in - before it was even flush with the flange - i couldn't find my m10 taps. Wouldn't want to drive too far tbh. But the thump has gone Tried to drill the two broken ones to get any easy out in, but they're hardish. Probably wouldn't shift anyways I'll take the whole hub off tomorrow and take it to work to the pillar drill and oxy / act, I'd no gas when I tried - not a good day..... Anyway - checked the green bible and it looks like these holes are blind, so perhaps not an easy fix? I know of a wrecked td5 not too far away, it has the newer non Salisbury rear axle. If I don't succeed to get the busted bits out, will this have the same rear hub assy? Thanks, Steve

Some play in the sliding splined part - trying to get rid of some of the transmission backlash thud whilst taking up drive. Cheers Steve

No good for me then - thanks. Steve

How much work is involved in retrofitting the plastic td5 one from a 110? Considering this myself as I prepare to change the rear x member in a few weeks, and not sure what I'll find lurking in there Steve

That it - excellent thanks.

I've spotted a rear prop and need to know that its the correct one or not as the case may be for my '97 110 300 tdi? The part number is FTC 4443 Thanks again. Steve

You've been busy mate - i'll watch with interest as I'll have to do the same myself. Good to meet you yesterday. Steve

I'm going to bite the bullet and change the rear crossmember. Its not totaly rotten yet - but after a real good poke and bashing with the hammer to remove all the rust it's not as strong as I'd like it to be. I'd only be putting of the inevitable if I patch it now. It was on the to do list when I bought the truck anyways. Question for all those in the know! I beleive that the spi one is one of the better made ones My local supplier won't sell me one as he wants to keep his stiock for his own workshop to consume But I'v found another one - but the vendor is unsure if it'l suit my truck - he's only fitted to a 90? Is there a difference between a 90 and a 110 one, I need a 110 version. The chassis isn't bad enough that I'll need the extra long extensions, std short oness will do. Heres the photos Cheers again. Steve

Cheers - sounds like an engineering change type thing in civvy street. Thanks, Steve

Its a sacol 63/40 with an 'x' stamped in the '10' box whatever the significance of that is, hydraulic overrun damper. Cheers - appreciate the help. All the local reme places etc are closing up - everybodys on gardening leave so no resources any more Will the details be in some of those user and maintainer manuals for the widetrack advertised on ebag? Thanks, Steve

Whats the proper to make it work - I get it sometimes, others no joy. Little sticker has fallen off with directions From memory its pull up, or push down and twist. Its a rod operated, drum braked model, with the jockey wheel, mark 2 /3 i beleive. Cheers.

Cheers folks - didn't think it was such a good deal - weird looking tread as well. Think it has to be bfg's. Steve

Any body runing these - had a good offer on some on my quest for a good deal on BFG's in all the local tyre places, what are they like, look like they may well be noisy on the road, worth buying or hold out for the BFG's? Thanks, Steve

Yes please - pm me with how to pay? Cheers Steve

Mine doesn't self centre with a 2" lift, inherited it that way - something else to consider then... More valuble info! Cheers. Steve

How much play is acceptable in a uj? I get a low frquency 'hard' / 'soild' bump bump bump when decelerating at low speed, suspect a uj or cv myself. Nothing on accelerating etc. Apologies for highjacking the thread. Steve

I've done similar using the carling switches radio and cb reversed, i.e cb in the top, radio in the bottom and it's very tight, not sure how much dimensions are different with the durilte switches tbh. I'd originally wanted the radio in top as well but sketched it up in autocad first and thought it was too tight. CB rests on the wiring at the back of the switches - no multiplugs, just normal 6.4mm crimps. HTH. Steve

Cheers gents - I'll get a go at it when the rain stops - too high to go into my garage

Anybody know what the internal diameter of the fuel pipe that runs along the top of the chassis from the tank is on a 300tdi please? Want to t into it for my eberspacher install, but only have 4 & 6 mm fittings? Thanks, Steve

A slightly off topic question but directly involving the same switches, what value of resistor should i put in serires with the sidelamp terminals to dim them slightly more or is it just a matter of experimenting, anybody had one of the switches apart to know wether the existing restistor is on the +ve or -ve side of things? Any sign of the legends yet Kevin? Anybody else used the vwp ones yet? Well pleased with the mud consul quality etc btw, recommended piece of kit. Like to option of the using the off, on, on for the kenlowe fan. I'm thinking through the logic of connecting them for auto, on, and off, but i'd rather have the auto as an always enabled non switched forget about function as it is now. The on is easy, and i'm presuming a relayed option for the off to kill the power when the switch is made since its normally open does this make sense? I have everything wired except the off. Thanks, Steve

Thanks guys, found the two bolts under the plastic part - thought that was part of the bottom dash, all sorted now. Steve

How do i get yet the bottom section on the dash removed from the bulkhead ? I've removed all the screws that I can see, had the top foam bit off, the instrument binacle, speakers out etc, but the bottom section is solid ? Need access to the wiring 'duct' from the fuse box up to where the new Mud console is going - a couple ofextra wires to run in with a multiplug or two that i can't get through, given up after an hour? I'm sure i'm missing the obvious tbh, there must be bolts somewhere? My workshop manual hasn't appeared in the post yet Thanks....