Ex Member

The cheap ******* solution that people use is to block and tackle off of the rafters and mov ethe truck back and forth. It is a bit harder.

The front axle is in the way. Easier to rent a crane. They are not expensive.

Look for the large plug next to the dipstick.

Actually, a lot of the later NA engines are actually TD blocks. Have a look on the left hand side to see if there are ports for the turbo oil feed. My ex engine was this way and I had the Mk 6B tag and it was a 1991 model.

What engine? No need to remove the floor on my 200TDI. Just pull the mounts and drop to access the top bolts as stated in the factory manual. Engine is easiest IMO.

You would then have CV or U joints at the diff and at the hubs (4 per axle). Plus the diff clearance to the vehicle would be hard to maintain.

I have a webpage just for this question. Well really the opposite of this question, but you can't have everything.

That is Bill's Rover you are thinking about. He's on another level than this discussion. He has also built a few Volvo axled rigs for other people. Those are he light duty mods. I guess we should have pointed you there first as Bill has thought about everything more than anyone I've seen on the internet. From my few years living in Australia, there are quite a few guys there that know more and have done more with their left pinky fingers than most of the net wheelers could dream of. Most of them have never been near a computer.

What exactly are you planning to do with this? You can buy a new high quality antenna with the correct plug for $20. Also most antennas are seld powered and it may be important to make sure it won't fry your GPS.

There is a reason you don't see any Germans on here. Modifying a vehicle is near to impossible. Must trust the great engineers, they are the only ones that know anything.

Pizgauers have portals, but they are independent suspension, interesting design, but shat for off roading. So do Hummers. People use Hummer portal boxes to make solid axles. A couple of aftermarket portal axle makers. Stazworks, Hummer portals and Ford 9" centers. Portal-Tek, custom Volvo based portals with Ford 9" centers

That is it... why would you WANT to swap on a LR body. There is nothing speial about them and I'm quite sure the Volvo body is much better and already designed around the vehicle. There are many things you "can" do. But there should be a point and hopefully the "point" is to come up with something better than before. UAZ Absolute horrid carp and ****ty axles.

On the MOG, maybe, but why? The Unimog is a great vehicle in of itself. There would be nothing to gain by putting a Rover body on one....probably a ton to lose though.

Ummmm, this really is NOT the bit of kit to go cheap on. They are dangerous as hell at the best of times. Get a genuine Jackall or a Hi-Lift. You future non-broken body parts and non-dead friends will thank you.

Unimogs have a "strange" drivetrain and suspension setup that would not lend itself to a Rover hybrid design. The C303s are leaf sprung and a coil sprung linked vehicle is better. If you want leaveds, the axles are almost a direct swap into a Series vehicle so this is obviously much easier than a body swap.

Thanks for the piuctures. That makes it quite clear. The drawing in the parts book is not quite so clear...

That part I DO know about Mounts next to the fuse panel (either side)

Has anyone a picture of the pump end for a 200TDI? That second diagram is the linkage for a TD or NA but won't work on a TDI, will it? Is the cable brackaet and the arm on the pump in addition to the stock ones or a replacement?

What I do.... Heat the metal fitting lightly with a torch. Do NOT heat the tubing directly, it will get the heat from the fitting. Make sure the joint is lubed with oil first to help. This method can easily be done in the vehicle, whereas boiling water and kettles are quite difficult.

BTW, the engine is in and it is running well so far. The swap went well. Around 12 hours work or so. The pulley mentioned above (ERR3093) is spot on and my air compressor can just mount straight back up where it used to be once I drill and tap the air con mounting holes. Why LR can't do this at the factory is beyond me... The new fan blade is the same as the old one... More spare parts.

On mine you certainly do. We really tried to get that downpipe out with the engine in place. No dice. Heat shield, what is that . You don't think these wreckers in the UK can actually send ALL of the parts with the engine...... They can't even clean things. Anyway, I got it out. It wasn't that bad. It does squeeze up past the exhaust. I needed to remove the one support for the turbo oil feed pipe. My only tip is take the bonnet off to get at the top bolts. It started this morning, so there is hope....

But there is no way to get the downpipe out. We tried when the engine went in.

Of all the things on that engine, this looks to be a real PITA. And tips? Will it come past the downpipe if I have it loose?

Sort of on topic..... Any tips for doing it on a Defender 200TDI. Just got my (New to me) 200TDI in andthe starter is carp..... Looks like fun to get at. Any tips on getting it out of its little hidey hole?

OK.... Thermocouples use a bimetallic bond to produce voltage which varies with temperature. Thermistors are devices that have a varying resistance with temperature. An example is a coolant temperature sensor on any car. Two completely different things. For an EGT application, I would suggest a 3 mm, Inconel sheathed, ungrounded, type K thermocouple. Mount through a 3 mm stainless compression fitting drilled through to allow the TC all of the way through the fitting. Other people use 6 mm TCs, but the thermal inertia is too high for this application. There is nothing special that will need to be done. The TC will be good to within 5 C without any calibration which is more than adequate for this app.