Ex Member

ODs are not behind the t. case. They are between the gearbox and t. case. I'm quite sure GKNs are only supposed to be used in the higher gears. I'm not sure if Roverdrives say this, but they do say "At the present the DX Roverdrive is only available for 4 and 5 cylinder models as tests on V8 powered Land Rovers have not been completed."

Here is some reading.

Most people get 6000 rpm tachs. The valves float and power drops like a brick before the mechanicals give out. 5500 rpm redline should be OK.

You guys get cell coverage when off road? Wow what a cute little country. You are SOL here two minutes off road if you want to contact the rest opf the world.

BTW, a set of Matt Tracks for an F350 sized truck are around $32000 USD.

Here is a thread on Pirate on making your own..... Go on Bill have some fun.

Have you checked for fuel at an injector? Pull an injector line and see if fuel comes out when you crank. This is where you should have started.

Why??? They are semi-floating and a real step backwards.

Or not.... Research is your friend.... This is what is called an urban myth.

I've always wondered why lifting rules are so well governed and there is basically nothing for pulling. Lifting loads are very easy to define as they are simply the weight (normally) of the item being lifted. When winching, the line load is very difficult to define. Because of this, I believe that all pulling activities should use rigging with a SWL at or above the rated line pull of the winch. This is the ONLY reasonable safe work practice to follow. IMO, this should INCLUDE the winch line as well. Why should crane operator be the only ones using properly rated equipment? Might I ask what sized rope you are using on those 14 k winches?

I will guarantee they are much safer on the back. I have a lot of experience.

Ummmmm 188 lb-ft at engine * 3.692 (gearbox) * 3.32 (transfer) * 3.54 (Axle) = 8157 lb-ft with all torque to one wheel. Not extremely difficult to reach 3000 with a locker engaged.

I design and operate industrial facilties including lots of test apparatus. This is very common and will work well in the application. The important thing is to get 3mm. Any smaller and I would not trust it to last in the service. Larger ones will not have adeqaute response time. The sheath should be 316 Stainless or better to deal with the environment. The company listed above sell 310 and Inconel 600 sheathing, either of which or more than adequate. They sell direct online, http://www.tcdirect.co.uk/deptprod.asp?deptid=190 and the prices look fine to me.

Type K, 3 mm with a 316L sheath. Don't get a 6mm as the response time is too slow.

OK, the internal gear go in differently on a front versus a rear. They can be converted by opening up and swapping the gears around.

Click on "download the latest version". http://www.geopainting.com/en/#last I'll tell you know that if you are not computer literate, forget the free maps as there are things to do that require computer knowledge. That Eastern Europe map set does not cover Romania.

IMO, you are best to purchase Garmin maps on DVD instead of the pre-programmed cards. Have a look on Garmin's website for available mapping products. They have online viewers that let you look at the data. If you want to view those maps install GPSMapEdit (it is free), http://www.geopainting.com/en/ They will look different on the GPS, but this is easier than trying to explain how to get them to woirk with the Garmin PC mapping software.

For the base map... The Garmin world basemap is available on the internet, if you look around and can be loaded to any mapping Garmin GPS with at least 32 MB of map storage. It is certainly better than nothing. The best place to find free maps is http://mapcenter.cgpsmapper.com/ Nothing better than the Garmin basemap there for Romania, though. Another tip is that Metroguide Europe which is half the price of City Navigator Europe can be made to auto-route on the GPS with a few tricks.

They ALL work anywhere in the world. It is whether or not there are maps. AFAIK, nobody has maps for eastern europe. Western european maps are stupid expensive as well..... Price sounds normal. Check this site to compare agianst Canadian Prices

I don't know.... But a wheel alignment takes 10 minutes with a tape measurer. Put on track rod. Measure distance across front of wheels and then back. Adjust to get front 1/8" higher than back.

20mm as long it is attached to something as strong.

Here you go, a local contender. Watch the video.

OK, but if the starter works fine, then the battery is OK. You must have another elctrical problem. Good luck finding it with that joke of a wiring system some Pommy thought up.

Sounds to me like you are having a problem with switched power, not the battery. Hook a volt meter to the battery and try again. I bet you have a poor connection to the ignition switch or an ignition switch that is dying.

I think it will be in the same spot as the current setup. It is -20C out right now , so crawling around under the 90 is not on my list of enjoyable activities. Forecasting a HIGH of -27 C on Monday . It was +15C last week...... Anyway, back to topic, I ordered the pulley. The parts book also says that I need the newer model fan to match the newer model pulley?? I ordered that as well as it was only 11 quid. I think I have just sold the old motor, so it is all coming together and I should have it in by Christmas.