jimmy_neutron

Noise sorted ... when i checked the tappets i noticed that the valve caps sometimes cocked over a bit when turning the engine by hand. I checked the caps for wear but really they were like new ... went all around the houses and ended up where i started. Ordered part number LJC100270 and when they arrived i found that they have got a large chamfered edge with a recess in the bottom. My old ones where square edged with a recess in the bottom. Anyway caps replaced with the ones with the new shape and noise gone and all sorted.

Took the pump lid off and everything looked fine. A small amount of scoring on the lid but thats about it. Did notice a bit of rotary play though. Presume this is normal... Spent a day searching for the noise .. Gonna pick up some valve caps tomorrow. Old ones seem quite loose on the valve top. Again not sure, but presume the hole in the centre of the cap should be a snug fit on the valve stem and mine have quite a lot of sideways movement and kind of tip up a bit when in first contact with the rocker. Worth a try for a tenner.

TBH it sounds like exactly the same road that i headed down. I don't doubt anything that western says and the 88 stat probably is the right one. Problem is that i couldn't get an 88 degree stat to open at the same temp as my old one. If ya do some internet searching (I did loads at the time), loads of people complain of their 200tdi's running just over half way. I even changed my radiator as i got convinced that it needed it. Also drilled a 1.5mm hole in the stat plate. This caused the engine to take a decade to warm up and got to 3/4 on the needle when under heavy load anyway. Some people, and i think western may have done this as well, fit a VDO guage out of a td5 as they apparantly read more accurately. As you know i just fitted an 82 degree stat and all worked as it did. I got an electric fan as well just in case you were wondering.

Many thanks both.. I'll take the lid off tommorow. Braking power is reduced from about 20,000 miles ago but not really bad though.

Thank you very much sir. Do you know if these do actually make a noise like badly adjusted tappets when worn ?

This is not recommended but is what i would do.. 1) set the timing of everything else by the timing marks on the engine. You now know that No1 is at TDC and therefore is about to enter the induction stage of its 4 stroke cycle. Therefore it is about to have fuel delivered by the injection pump. Get the idea ? 2) slacken off / remove the metal pipes which go to the injectors and turn the pump by hand (clockwise i think) until fuel starts to come out of the pipe going to no1 cylinder. 3) Back the turns off a couple of degrees and you should be able to slide the pin back in. B) 4) don't blow yourself up

I'm still trying to work out a tappetty noise that i'm getting. Gonna try borrow a compression tester tomorrow to eliminate the worst as the tappets are set to correct gap. When looking at the price of parts i noticed that a few places like paddocks etc list a brake vacuum pump for a 200tdi. I thought these were only fitted on the 300tdi ?? I know these can make some weird noises when they get worn but does my 200tdi have one and if so where ??

When you say you replaced the gasket, does that mean that you also had the head skimmed / polished ? If so Landrover say that a 200tdi should not be skimmed, although personally i would do it if needed. The reason they say not to skim the head at all is cos its known to them that the valves will touch the tops of the pistons. The way around this is to seat / recess the valves in slightly deeper. Also if ya getting the injectors checked be aware that most 'specialists' say that they can check the spray pattern / injectors but in fact they are only able to check the first stage. The normal problem with 200tdi injectors is not going into the second stage which causes underfueling or stubborness as i call it. Temp just above half way could be if ya decided to replace the thermostat whilst having the engine stripped down. Everyone and their dog states an 88degree stat. However mine always ran slightly hot with an 88 stat. Reason being an 88 stat starts to open at 88 meaning the coolant temp was around 95. I fitted an 82 degree stat which means my actual coolant temp is 88/89 degrees and strangely my temp needle sits bang on half way.

So nice to hear of good and friendly service. Can't u buy out land rover and shake up the whole dealer experience?

I had this on a defender. Was the sender in the tank. You may find that it reads empty when full to the brim and when empty, and reads ok when you have used some fuel out of the tank. This would be due to the copper track on the sender being worn out.

Did you replace the head gasket with one of the correct thickness ??? They have got dots on them to show how thick they are. replace it with one thats too thin and you may get colisions + sparks.

Its more of a ticking that a clacking although noises are a bit of a funny thing. it sounds just like a mk1 fiesta, all tappetty. I took the lid off the engine again to make sure i havn't done anything wrong or missed something. All the rockers are really loose and i'm starting to wonder if that's the problem. Maybe my rocker shaft is worn ?? I set all clearances to 0.20mm as stated by haynes. Is this correct? After setting to 0.2 i noticed that the rockers had no resistance at all to move. They could be pushed the final .2mm with a feather. Is this normal cos i seem to remember most engines have a small amount of resistance when shifting them. Am i still barking up the wrong tree ?

Injectors were new not just recon.. Today i replaced the fuel lift pump and found that the old one was u/s. Now goes alot better but still got the tappetty noise. Only happens when the engine is at full temperature. Even if i stop the engine for 2 mins and then go again it is fine till it gets fully hot. Its much worse after along hill climb.

Injection pump timing checked out ok. Could it be the lift pump ????

Fuel injectors should be good as they have only done 15,000 miles. Interested though that you removed the fuel heater and the noise disapeared. Can't get my head around how that could be. It does seem a little guttless so unless you were experiencing fuel starvation... Can this cause this kind of noise ????????

Valve clearances are fine and i've got a full set of caps, although i didn't remove them to check for wear.

My 200tdi started sounding a bit tappetty about 10,000miles ago. At first it only seemed to be when the engine was hot and towing a heavy load and pulling out of a junction and high revs etc etc so i obviously just ignored it. Its been getting slowly worse, to the point where it now sounds like its going to self destruct at about 2500rpm. I have checked the valve clearances but have become stuck as the noise sounds exactly like a mk1 fiesta tappetty noise. Only every happens when the engine is warmed up. Any ideas please

I had to get some for a 90 recently and found LR main dealer to be the cheapest.

The wire should be rated by the supply fuse rather than actual power consumption.

I seem to remember this as a common problem on the 300tdi. As turbocharger said .. A shard of metal comes off the stop solenoid and intermittantly lodges itself in an inappropriate place. It can cause the problem you describe and also can cause the car to just cut out when you least require it. A magnet on a stick (think draper make one) may get it out.

Anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram for the Disco 3 ???

My understanding is that it is still legal, but it is considered extremely unsafe to have sideways seats. Personally i wouldn't take the risk. I fitted the forward facing seats like what are in the back of the new station wagons. This of course limits me to 5 people but all of them have at least got a proper forward facing seat with a proper 3 point seatbelt.

Thanx for this.. It might be worth a play before buying anything else. If it works then it will definately make this a cheap option for a winter heater. Thoughts.. if the 1533 is bus compatable then the newer telestart units most probably are. Thus i will be able to start my heater from 1km away on a key fob. It'll just come down to price i think. If i get it all working then i'll post some pics and a wiring diagram etc so it can be copied as this will a be a cheap way of using a webasto which is really cheap and only a couple of years old, cos the majority on the internet believe it to be useless.

Thanx all .. Got a wiring diagram from LR for the disco 3. This confirms that the FBH must be started by w-bus. This lead me to a load of googling. Which has led me to believe that the t91 telestart has a w-bus connection. Anyone got any circuit diagram or good info on one of these (or similar). Also heard that the 1533 timer has got a w-bus connection, but asked someone on ebay and he said it doesn't. So again, antone got any info on this ??

Awasome unit + thanks but its the electrical bus i'm having bother with not the big red bus